Can't seem to keep my fish alive.

[Essjay]

Ah so I did remember correctly. Back in 1969 to 1971 doing titrations in chemistry practical lessons at school, I know that the teacher had said that so many drops were 0.1 ml, and I remembered it was 2 drops - but at my age the memory isn't always reliable



So 15 drops of dechlorinator = 0.75 ml, which is only a third of the amount needed.

 

[NickAu]

While I was being funny, that chart answers the question " how big is a drop"?

 

[AbbeysDad]

So, it seems clear that you haven't used enough conditioner so the chlorine/chloramine likely killed the fish and perhaps the beneficial bacteria as well ! I'm also curious about which conditioner you are using?
(remember, I bit too much conditioner is better than not enough)
Live and learn!

This reminds me of the time when I used reclaimed water from a dehumidifier, not knowing it was high in ammonia (I still don't know why!).
Or the time I tried using rain water only to discover that unless you live in the wilderness (and even then I wonder) rain water isn't as pure as we might think (or hope) plus contaminants the collect on a roof!
Live and learn!

Experts seem to agree that drip acclimation is pointless as it takes fish days, if not weeks to really acclimate to a different water chemistry...and if you buy fish locally, the water chemistry is likely more similar than different. Drip acclimation is even potentially deadly for shipped fish. Why? For shipped fish, the pH lowers so ammonia is converted to ammonium which the fish are fine with. However, the drip acclimation raises pH and the ammonium converts back to deadly ammonia and can kill the fish!
The best practice is to 'plop and drop' - float the bag to equalize the temperature, then net or pour through a net and place the fish right in the tank....and it's always a best practice to quarantine new fish...although if you have a reliable source, this may not be absolutely necessary.

 

[Byron]

I am inclined to agree with others that the chlorine/chloramine might be the issue. Some municipalities now use chloramine as well as chlorine (LA may do this, can you see this on their website?) and that means the dechlorinator has to be intended for chloramine and chlorine (most but not all are, it will say on the bottle) but also it takes more to deal with chloramine. This has ammonia in it, making it faster and more effective for its purpose.

We need to know the brand of conditioner. The amount needed seems a lot, which suggests it is not a very concentrated product. I use API Tap Water Conditioner, and one drop treats 1 gallon for chlorine; they recommend 2 drops for chloramine. My bucket holds 3 gallons, and three drops detoxifies the chlorine instantly. I would use 2 drops per gallon if I had to deal with chloramine.

After the water change, when the fish begin to die, do they all appear near the surface, as if gasping? This is the usual sign for chlorine poisoning. I assume it would be similar with chloramine. It doesn't take long for fish to die from chlorine/chloramine poisoning.

 

[mbpted]

I'm using Aqueon Water Conditioner. It indicates on the bottle that it "instantly neutralizes chlorine and chloramines typically found in tap water..."

The instructions say 5ml (1 tsp) for every 10 gallons. My previous bottle had a cap with a 5ml mark on it. It took 15 drops from the pop-top opening to fill 1/2 of that measurement, so the drops are kind of large.

I can certainly increase the dosage x2, and do a full teaspoon for my 5 gal bucket. I have an old teaspoon that I can dedicate specifically for the tank, but I like the idea of a measured syringe or pipette. (I'll see if I can find one.)

If anyone thinks that's too much, please let me know. I don't want to over do it.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

[NickAu]

Sorry cant help you on that as I only use and recommend Easy Life Fluid Filter Media.

 

[Essjay]

I have never liked those chemicals that say to use a cap to measure liquid. I am much happier using a syringe or graduated pipette. I have bought syringes and pipettes from Ebay, and from my local pharmacist. If you buy them in person, ask for a babies' medicine dosing syringe. I got the third degree about what I wanted it for when I asked for just a syringe

 

[Byron]

I'm using Aqueon Water Conditioner. It indicates on the bottle that it "instantly neutralizes chlorine and chloramines typically found in tap water..."

The instructions say 5ml (1 tsp) for every 10 gallons. My previous bottle had a cap with a 5ml mark on it. It took 15 drops from the pop-top opening to fill 1/2 of that measurement, so the drops are kind of large.

I can certainly increase the dosage x2, and do a full teaspoon for my 5 gal bucket. I have an old teaspoon that I can dedicate specifically for the tank, but I like the idea of a measured syringe or pipette. (I'll see if I can find one.)

If anyone thinks that's too much, please let me know. I don't want to over do it.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I know nothing about this particular conditioner, but if you follow their directions you should be OK. A tad over is fine, but not to extreme. This stuff is after all a chemical substance, and it gets inside the fish, and we want to keep that minimum. But we also need to use enough to do the job. Does it say anything about doubling the dose with chloramine in the water?

And back to my earlier point, when you did these water changes, were the fish up near the top immediately after and remaining there?

 

[mbpted]

Does it say anything about doubling the dose with chloramine in the water?

No specifications based on chlorine or chloramine.

And back to my earlier point, when you did these water changes, were the fish up near the top immediately after and remaining there?

I didn't see that. When the Rasboras died, it was just a couple hours after I had changed the water when I discovered 3 of them dead on the floor of the tank. Again, this was the first water change since I had gotten them so I was a little shocked. An hour later another was in a lazy spiral, the other two were not in good shape but not sucking at the surface. And they died soon after. I found one stuck to the filter intake.

The Gourami did not do anything at the top of the tank at all. I thought he enjoyed swimming among the floating Anacharis - towards the top, but he never seemed territorial.

One thing I did notice on both occasions was that the Bristle-Nose would move from his normal hiding space, to one closer to the top of the tank - behind the water pump/filter. He has several hiding spaces but this one seems to be his favorite after water changes. It's certainly the most out of the way. Another regular thing I do is to feed him half a cucumber slice right after a water change. He used to go right for it in the past, but now he waits and I don't see any evidence of him eating it until about a day later.

I guess the only way to really test this is to get more fish, and on my next water change increase the dosage of the water conditioner.

Is there a way to test for chlorine/chloromine in water before I add it to my tank? I'm not finding anything in my internet searches. Although I read that there are strips to test for chlorine levels. I'll see if there's anything at my LFS.

 

[Byron]

In my experience, chlorine burning also first shows up when the fish will move to the opposite end of the tank from where the water is entering and be at the surface, usually gasping for air. Chlorine burns the gills, and this is the fish's normal response. Gills will also be very red, and the gill covers spread out. Other water issues can cause the same reaction obviously.

The spiraling is frequently due to some toxin in the water, which has affected the fish internally. For one example, a toxic substance leeching from wood or rock; or overdoses of medications/additives. Another cause is what we term "shock" brought on by differing parameters to which thee fish is rapidly exposed. The pH, GH, KH, temperature are all possibles. And I'm not suggesting you had any one of these, they are just "possible" explanations that come to mind.

There are chlorine tests available. This and any other possible tests should be done before any new fish are introduced. Finding the problem first can save fish lives.

 

[mbpted]

There are chlorine tests available. This and any other possible tests should be done before any new fish are introduced. Finding the problem first can save fish lives.

I'll see if I can find a chlorine test at my LFS (or online) before I try to add any more fish. Thanks.