Canister Skill Issue? Or Marineland Messup?

[Gemtrox42]

I have a 30gal and switched from an HoB to a Marineland Magniflow 220 canister filter approximately 5 weeks ago (Im only using the provided media, no custom stuff). I left my HoB running for a week, just to help get the new filter up and running. For the first few weeks, it was working like a charm. Now my hoses are coated in algae, and the surface of the tank is a solid mat of some opaque film. I also could swear that my glass and decorations are growing algae faster than ever before. I tried squirting some water down the tubes and it did nothing. I don't understand why the film is there: I have the outtake nozzle above the water, so it should be getting as much agitation as with the HoB. I feel like I'm missing something crucial to canister filters, but I'm not sure what exactly. Any tips appreciated!

 

[Uberhoust]

Some surface agitation is required to reduce the protein scum on the surface. I switched from an HOB to canister a year ago but I didn't have any issues, but I did have to adjust the outlet to disturb the surface of the water. I don't see how you can stop the hoses from being coated in algae, mine are black so that is not an issue for me. Something doesn't seem right, switching to a canister made my filtration better but I slightly oversized the canister.

1. Is the filter large enough? (cannot find the Magniflow 550 on the web)
2. Is the outlet disturbing enough of the water at the surface, you might want to play with the angle of the outlet.
3. Is the problem something else, maybe something died in the tank.
4. Is the filter running correctly. Did something get forgotten allowing the water to bypass the filter and biological media.

 

[Gemtrox42]

1. Is the filter large enough? (cannot find the Magniflow 550 on the web)

My bad, it's actually a 220! I'll update the op. Thanks for the catch.

2. Is the outlet disturbing enough of the water at the surface, you might want to play with the angle of the outlet.

I have duckweed on the surface, so I've been angling it to minimize the disturbance. I'll try removing as much as I can. I also have a mesh wire mesh guard around the filter intake that's to prevent shrimp and snails from getting sucked in. That may be decreasing the flow too.

3. Is the problem something else, maybe something died in the tank.

Nothing that fits the timeline.

4. Is the filter running correctly. Did something get forgotten allowing the water to bypass the filter and biological media.

I removed one of the stages of filtration (the cement rings) because it caused a massive ph spike during the first week. So I suppose it's filtering 1/4th as well as it could be.

I'll try disturbing the surface more. Id appreciate any suggestions on replacement media for the cement rings, thanks!

 

[jaylach]

I removed one of the stages of filtration (the cement rings) because it caused a massive ph spike during the first week. So I suppose it's filtering 1/4th as well as it could be.

Those rings should actually be ceramic, not cement. They are not really a filter element but, rather, for good bacteria to grow on. They should not affect actual filtration much. They also should not affect PH as they should be inert.

 

[lnsaneM]

Your oily surface could be you are overfeeding the fish, or not changing the water as you should. But running two filters should help with this problem not the other way around

 

[Uberhoust]

Filter would be the size I would choose. You might be able to use some air tubing to isolate sections of the surface for the floating plants, and a section for disturbed water near the outflow of the water. @jaylach and @InsaneM have good points from my perspective.

 

[Gemtrox42]

They should not affect actual filtration much. They also should not affect PH as they should be inert.

Oh, so they're basically the equivalent of a filter placebo? Also, I'll go back and check using a separate container with the rings, but my pH did drop after I removed them and changed the water.

OK new problem, I test my water with an API test kit. I'm using the high range solution because my tank is out of basic pH range. Every time I take a test I get a different reading, between 7.6 and 8.0. I'm sure im using the same amount of tank water and agent, shaking the tubes the same time (30sec), used 6 different tubes, and I made sure they were not stained and were washed thoroughly after use. I guess I never considered this, but the only thing I can think of is that the drops themselves must be different sizes. But that can't be...what am I missing?

 

[Gemtrox42]

Your oily surface could be you are overfeeding the fish, or not changing the water as you should. But running two filters should help with this problem not the other way around

I'm going to run some tests to isolate the problem. But angling the outtake valve up has apparently caused enough disruption to dissipate the majority of the film.

 

[Gemtrox42]

Filter would be the size I would choose. You might be able to use some air tubing to isolate sections of the surface for the floating plants, and a section for disturbed water near the outflow of the water. @jaylach and @InsaneM have good points from my perspective.

Thanks, looks like I'll have to go DIY on this.

 

[jaylach]

Oh, so they're basically the equivalent of a filter placebo? Also, I'll go back and check using a separate container with the rings, but my pH did drop after I removed them and changed the water.

OK new problem, I test my water with an API test kit. I'm using the high range solution because my tank is out of basic pH range. Every time I take a test I get a different reading, between 7.6 and 8.0. I'm sure im using the same amount of tank water and agent, shaking the tubes the same time (30sec), used 6 different tubes, and I made sure they were not stained and were washed thoroughly after use. I guess I never considered this, but the only thing I can think of is that the drops themselves must be different sizes. But that can't be...what am I missing?

The ceramics are not a filter placebo as they DO have a purpose. They serve as surfaces for good bacteria to live. These bacteria transform ammonia to nitrites then to nitrates. On the package for my ceramics the instructions said to change the ceramics out every three months. There may be a reason that I am wrong but it seems to me that this is just a ploy to get more of your money. If you change out the ceramics, in my opinion, you are just throwing away your good bacteria.

I don't really know if this makes a difference but I always shake the agent bottles before testing even if the directions do not call for doing so. I just figure that stuff can settle. If you are holding the bottle of agent straight vertical the drops should be pretty uniform. Also try to not allow the tip of the agent bottle to touch the test tube when removed as there is often a drop still suspended on the tip that could get on the tube.

The fluctuation in the PH readings could also be caused by your tap water. If you add tap water it can take a day or two for the actual tap water PH to come through. It may have been another thread that I posted the following so I'll post it again to make sure. Fill a decent sized container with tap water and check the PH. Let the container set for a day or two then test again. It is quite likely that the readings will be quite a bit different. The reading after the container sets will be the more accurate.

 

[plebian]

Oh, so they're basically the equivalent of a filter placebo? Also, I'll go back and check using a separate container with the rings, but my pH did drop after I removed them and changed the water.

OK new problem, I test my water with an API test kit. I'm using the high range solution because my tank is out of basic pH range. Every time I take a test I get a different reading, between 7.6 and 8.0. I'm sure im using the same amount of tank water and agent, shaking the tubes the same time (30sec), used 6 different tubes, and I made sure they were not stained and were washed thoroughly after use. I guess I never considered this, but the only thing I can think of is that the drops themselves must be different sizes. But that can't be...what am I missing?

The API kit is unreliable for pH readings between 7.4 - 8.0. I had exactly the same problem and switched to a Tetra test kit.

My guess would be that your actual pH is 8.0. BTW - you don't need to really shake the tubes for the pH test. Just turn them over a few times to mix the solution. The shaking is needed for the nitrate test. Also, just to note, the API test for nitrate is unreliable for anything over 40 ppm.

 

[Uberhoust]

Just a note on reading the values from the test kits. Most of the tests are colorimetric tests, they depend on full spectrum light to work correctly when color matching with human vision. With LED lights and Florescent lights getting full spectrum can be difficult (both depend on a mix of phosphorescent and florescent dyes). The printed comparison cards are based on only a few colors printed, typically a form of CYMK, in a way that makes your brain sense a particular color but if the light illuminating the card is missing some wavelengths of light your comparison between the card and the solution might not match anymore. The same goes with using a computer screen, RGB, the computer screen will only generate three distinct colors at different intensities that your brain interprets as other colors.

Example if the solution is yellow ie about 580 nanometers, but your RGB monitor uses 630(red), 532(green), and 465(blue), the monitor will fully light the red and the green (your brain sees yellow) but if the illumination light doesn't have or has a small amount of light at the 580 nm range the solution will appear clear and you will not match the color to the screen.

To reduce variability, try to do the tests under natural light if possible or at the very least a daylight balanced light with a high color rendering index, CRI. You may find the tests easier to use under these circumstances.

 

[Benji k]

I have a 30gal and switched from an HoB to a Marineland Magniflow 220 canister filter approximately 5 weeks ago (Im only using the provided media, no custom stuff). I left my HoB running for a week, just to help get the new filter up and running. For the first few weeks, it was working like a charm. Now my hoses are coated in algae, and the surface of the tank is a solid mat of some opaque film. I also could swear that my glass and decorations are growing algae faster than ever before. I tried squirting some water down the tubes and it did nothing. I don't understand why the film is there: I have the outtake nozzle above the water, so it should be getting as much agitation as with the HoB. I feel like I'm missing something crucial to canister filters, but I'm not sure what exactly. Any tips appreciated!

skill issue i reccomend leaving the light of and only 8 hours a day thats how i got my tank clear by keeping the light of longer and also get a dad/ father figure to help you i dont have one do you?

 

[Beastije]

Quick question, did you rinse the new canister media in tap water thoroughly before using in the filter?