Ro stands for Reverse Osmosis, it’s a set up people use to get purified water if their water needs to be altered. I personally live in BC Canada where we have very pure, very soft water straight from the tap pretty much the only thing in it is the tiny bit of added chlorine. That being said it is good for soft water fish (like the neons) where as harder water will have heavy metals etc in it... pretty much depends where you live. If you don’t know what type of water you have you can try googling for it but there are also test strips / or liquid tests that test for all the things you’ll need to know about your water (API test strips are the most accurate of the test strips in my opinion) you don’t honestly need RO water for your tank, it just means you’ll need to find out what type of water you have and which fish will be compatible with that type of water!Me without any testing stuff and have no clue how to treat hard water and have no clue what RO water is and how to get it
Actually what sort of stuff do I need to test my aquarium, and are the shrimp compatible with tetras?
I would say try and identify what type of algae it is? If it’s just green on the glass I would leave it! That would be good snack for the shrimp and it means your tank is balancing itself outI'm currently doing a 50% water change weekly as well as a manual algae clean starting Saturday due to algae buildup and no algae eaters that are doing a good job
.
I used an ampoule of concentrated bacteria when I set it up, and the fish store person told my parents and I that if we got the ampoule, it would be ready for fish almost immediately. I forgot to account for the time it would take for sand to settle, and I also forgot to wash our sand, and it ended up taking over 2 days, during which a cardinal tetra died. I guess during that time, the bacteria settled in, and also I had planted the plants a day before the fish went in, so that worked too.I do have a question, when you first set up your tank did you cycle your tank?
I guess I'll clean the front and side walls which I can see through, but leave the rocks, driftwood, and back walls.I would say try and identify what type of algae it is? If it’s just green on the glass I would leave it! That would be good snack for the shrimp and it means your tank is balancing itself out
Yes looks like regular old algae shouldn’t be an issue. If you want to get rid of it try lowering the amount of time you hav the light on to like 6hrs of the dayalgae
Okay, usually that is not the case since a cycle is referring to the nitrogen cycle. Yes the beneficial bacteria in that ampoule start the cycle by adding the first bit of bacteria you should usually wait for a period of time testing the water to make sure the bacteria is turning the harmful chemicals into less harmful chemicals that the fish can live with (nitrates) and then do water changes to remove the nitrates and replace it with better water... I would recommend you read up on the nitrogen cycle may help with your fishI used an ampoule of concentrated bacteria when I set it up, and the fish store person told my parents and I that if we got the ampoule, it would be ready for fish almost immediately. I forgot to account for the time it would take for sand to settle, and I also forgot to wash our sand, and it ended up taking over 2 days, during which a cardinal tetra died. I guess during that time, the bacteria settled in, and also I had planted the plants a day before the fish went in, so that worked too.
Ok! So next time I do a water change and clean the tank (tomorrow), I should do a nitrate and nitrite test. And what do I do if the nitrites and nitrates are above what they should be?Okay, usually that is not the case since a cycle is referring to the nitrogen cycle. Yes the beneficial bacteria in that ampoule start the cycle by adding the first bit of bacteria you should usually wait for a period of time testing the water to make sure the bacteria is turning the harmful chemicals into less harmful chemicals that the fish can live with (nitrates) and then do water changes to remove the nitrates and replace it with better water... I would recommend you read up on the nitrogen cycle may help with your fish
You should try and keep ammonia levels at 0Ok! So next time I do a water change and clean the tank (tomorrow), I should do a nitrate and nitrite test. And what do I do if the nitrites and nitrates are above what they should be?
You should try and keep ammonia levels at 0
Nitrite levels at 0
Nitrate between 0-20ppm (parts per million)
To get your nitrates to go down you should do a larger water change with dechlorinated water, taking some of the old tank water out and replacing it with fresh water will not only get rid of the waste building up in there but it will lower the concentration nitrates
If you find that you have no nitrates then there is an issue with your tank not being cycled. all tanks that are healthily cycling and have fish that are being fed will have nitrates, the nitrates come from the beneficial bacteria breaking down the harmful chemicals (ammonia and nitrite) along with poop and uneaten food in the water. The Beneficial bacteria will turn these things into less harmful form nitrate which we can easily lower with water changes!
Yes while ammonia and nitrite are very harmful nitrates when in lower concentrations are relatively harmless, but if they get too much in the tank all your fish will die all at onceI see. So if there is a certain type of poison it's bad news, and if there's none of a different kind of poison, that's also bad news
You want to have some nitrAtes because that means the bacteria is turning the worse chemicals into not so bad ones!Yes while ammonia and nitrite are very harmful nitrates when in lower concentrations are relatively harmless, but if they get too much in the tank all your fish will die all at once
I see. Thank you!You want to have some nitrAtes because that means the bacteria is turning the worse chemicals into not so bad ones!