Can I Use Hot Water From My Tap To Change Water ?

[pdludbrooke]

I have very very high Nitrites in my tank water during my fishless cycle, I wanted to change the water so I did using a kettle to heat the wayer to do a water change, but even though I did a 90% water change my nitrItes ar still off the chart, is it safe to use the hot water provided from my tap via a combi boiler ? I have a 105 litre tank and it took so long boiling the water etc to get it to 30 c.

 

[Man of fish]

Why does it matter if your in a fishless cycle? Why not just let them go down on their own to build the nitrite bacs?

 

[Jakey02578]

Why does it matter if your in a fishless cycle? Why not just let them go down on their own to build the nitrite bacs?

+1

 

[pdludbrooke]

Why does it matter if your in a fishless cycle? Why not just let them go down on their own to build the nitrite bacs?

I memeber on here wrote the following I was running by what he said which follows........

Here's the Prime Ordeal 21 day max (fishless) method for completeness:

DO NOT add any additives to the tank (e.g. commercial pH adjusters, sludge busters etc.)

Remove or turn off any UV sources (like the ones that sometimes come built into the filter).
Only use a basic dechlorinator during cycling, such as API tap water conditioner, which does not bind to ammonia.
No lights or plants.
Set temperature to 30C
Adjust pH to 8.2 with addition of bicarbonate of soda if pH is less than this. Add crushed coral to the filter to keep it there and/or continue to dose bicarb as necessary.
Add a pinch of flake food to the tank at the start and every seven days thereafter to provide nutrients for the bacteria which may be missing from the source water.
Aerate the tank well. Direct the outflow of your filter, if possible, to create maximum disturbance on the surface of the water. Lower the water level if your filter is not adjustable to achieve the same effect. Add an air stone or two. (Note this isn't optional, you must do both).
If your filter flow is adjustable set it at maximum. Use the venturi if your filter has one.



Dose 5ppm ammonia as the first dose.
Once nitrite shows up, which will probably be on day six or seven, redose ammonia every other day to 1ppm. You don't need to measure the ammonia again, just add one fifth of the initial dose every other day. (Note: In fact no measurement of ammonia is needed at all with this method. Just use the calculator to find what dose you need for your size of tank and ammonia strength and dose that initially, then dose one fifth of that every time thereafter.)
Monitor the nitrite level and change sufficient water to keep it below 5ppm at all times. Note: to avoid stalling, ensure the new water is as closely matched in temperature and pH to the tank water as you can.
Approximately two weeks after nitrite first appears your tank should be cycled and, after a last water change to reduce any nitrate to minimum, can be reasonably stocked immediately.

This method can actually be done with just a nitrite and pH test kit.

Why does it matter if your in a fishless cycle? Why not just let them go down on their own to build the nitrite bacs?

I memeber on here wrote the following I was running by what he said which follows........

Here's the Prime Ordeal 21 day max (fishless) method for completeness:

DO NOT add any additives to the tank (e.g. commercial pH adjusters, sludge busters etc.)

Remove or turn off any UV sources (like the ones that sometimes come built into the filter).
Only use a basic dechlorinator during cycling, such as API tap water conditioner, which does not bind to ammonia.
No lights or plants.
Set temperature to 30C
Adjust pH to 8.2 with addition of bicarbonate of soda if pH is less than this. Add crushed coral to the filter to keep it there and/or continue to dose bicarb as necessary.
Add a pinch of flake food to the tank at the start and every seven days thereafter to provide nutrients for the bacteria which may be missing from the source water.
Aerate the tank well. Direct the outflow of your filter, if possible, to create maximum disturbance on the surface of the water. Lower the water level if your filter is not adjustable to achieve the same effect. Add an air stone or two. (Note this isn't optional, you must do both).
If your filter flow is adjustable set it at maximum. Use the venturi if your filter has one.



Dose 5ppm ammonia as the first dose.
Once nitrite shows up, which will probably be on day six or seven, redose ammonia every other day to 1ppm. You don't need to measure the ammonia again, just add one fifth of the initial dose every other day. (Note: In fact no measurement of ammonia is needed at all with this method. Just use the calculator to find what dose you need for your size of tank and ammonia strength and dose that initially, then dose one fifth of that every time thereafter.)
Monitor the nitrite level and change sufficient water to keep it below 5ppm at all times. Note: to avoid stalling, ensure the new water is as closely matched in temperature and pH to the tank water as you can.
Approximately two weeks after nitrite first appears your tank should be cycled and, after a last water change to reduce any nitrate to minimum, can be reasonably stocked immediately.

This method can actually be done with just a nitrite and pH test kit.

My Nitrites were through the roof and still off the chart

 

[fluttermoth]

It is true that very high levels of both nitrite and nitrate can stall a cycle.

It's perfectly alright to use hot water from the tap to get the temp of your new water right.

 

[OldMan47]

I always use the blended water from my kitchen faucet to match new water temperature with my existing tank water. Some of that water obviously is the result of mixing in hot water. I have seen no impact of doing things that way.

 

[sadguppy]

I do, and have never seen ill affects as a result. Certainly my pest snails, who wouldn't be able to tolerate copper if it was presents, are thriving much to my annoyance!

 

[CezzaXV]

I agree, hot water from the tap has never done my tank any harm.

There are claims about that very high levels of nitrite can promote the wrong kind of bacteria to grow. Personally, I was doing water changes during the later stages of my cycle to keep the nitrite within readable levels just so I could see what was happening. It helped keep my enthusiasm up if I felt I was helping.