Can anyone help me. I have this disease in my pond that’s wiping out my entire pond.

I don’t know my water parameters,but I did a 60% water change then added 5 cups of salt to the pond and it’s bin in there for 2 days now. My pond is a 300 gal pond. I had fish already in the pond then I added about 100 more fish to the pond about 3 weeks later after I had them in quarantine. The ones that are dying is the ones I put In there what I had in quarantine
100 fish? That's an awful lot.

First, if your pond is new, it will not have developed a good environment for your fish. Please read the subforum on cycling https://www.fishforums.net/forums/cycle-your-tank.291/ Even though you have a pond, you still need a healthy nitrogen cycle.

Secondly, please test and post your water parameters, especially nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia, as that can help us understand how to help you.

Thirdly, 100 fish is far too many to introduce into an environment at once, and too many for a small pond. It would be better to transfer some of them elsewhere (where were they in quarantine? can you use that?), give them away, or take them back, if possible.
 
If you don’t know your water parameters then that’s a big problem in itself. Take a sample to your local fish store and ask them to test it. Write down the numbers and let us know. I have a feeling this is a water quality issue. With 100 fish your ammonia could be sky high and killing the fish. If you don't know your parameters I doubt you cycled your pond first. This means the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates are toxic to your fish. Get yourself an API Freshwater Test Kit. They’re easy to use and a necessary tool in the hobby. We’re here to help.
 
100 fish? That's an awful lot.

First, if your pond is new, it will not have developed a good environment for your fish. Please read the subforum on cycling https://www.fishforums.net/forums/cycle-your-tank.291/ Even though you have a pond, you still need a healthy nitrogen cycle.

Secondly, please test and post your water parameters, especially nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia, as that can help us understand how to help you.

Thirdly, 100 fish is far too many to introduce into an environment at once, and too many for a small pond. It would be better to transfer some of them elsewhere (where were they in quarantine? can you use that?), give them away, or take them back, if possible.
 
My pond is been established for months. I didn’t add 100 fish at one time. And I also do water changes once every week. I had over 100 fish in the pond already and they were doing fine,but seems like the new ones I added to the pond is the ones dying. I had them in quarantine for 3 weeks. It’s like the fish gets the wobbles and then they start to get bent in their top fin. Then they have difficulty using their tail to swim.
 
My pond is been established for months. I didn’t add 100 fish at one time. And I also do water changes once every week. I had over 100 fish in the pond already and they were doing fine,but seems like the new ones I added to the pond is the ones dying. I had them in quarantine for 3 weeks. It’s like the fish gets the wobbles and then they start to get bent in their top fin. Then they have difficulty using their tail to swim.
My pond is been established for months. I didn’t add 100 fish at one time. And I also do water changes once every week. I had over 100 fish in the pond already and they were doing fine,but seems like the new ones I added to the pond is the ones dying. I had them in quarantine for 3 weeks. It’s like the fish gets the wobbles and then they start to get bent in their top fin. Then they have difficulty using their tail to swim.
 
upload_2019-9-6_14-14-40.jpeg
 
OK. Sorry, I misunderstood your description.
The bent spine can be caused by a number of things, including hereditary factors, water conditions, and disease.

There is a bacterial infection, commonly called fish tuberculosis, that can cause that bent spine. It normally also causes sores/lesions and loss of scales. If you don't have that, it's probably something else, but in case it is, be careful handling your fish because it can make humans sick, too, not with TB, but a related Mycobacterium.

But most problems have their origins in water quality issues. It is the major trigger in fish TB. The bent spine can also be caused by insufficent oxygen in the water. It is really important that you know the water parameters. It's best if you get your own test kit, but at least take a sample to a local fish shop and have them test it.

If it were me, I would do the following:

1) Remove any sick fish to another pond or tank for treament (wear gloves)
2) Get a test kit, and do frequent water test of both pond & 'hospital' tank
3) Determine treatment depending on water parameters & other symptoms

If it is fish tuberculosis it can only be treated with antibiotics, e.g. Kanamycin, and there is a moderate probability that you will lose all your fish. Fish tuberculosis usually takes a long time to show symptoms, and spreads easily.
 
If it is fish tuberculosis it can only be treated with antibiotics, e.g. Kanamycin,
Fish TB (Mycobacteria marinum and other species) can't be cured and certainly not with Kanamycin.

Mycobacterium have a waxy coating over their cells and it protects them from medications, as well as the body's immune system and environmental factors. Some species of Mycobacteria (namely M. tuberculosis and M. leprae) can be treated in people but they use specialised anti-biotics and it takes a long time (around 12 months, sometimes longer) to treat them. It's even harder to treat fish with TB due the TB cells developing inside granulomas in the fish. Granulomas are a bit like a tumour and it is hard for medications to penetrate them. This means the TB cells can sit there in safety and slowly grow and damage the fish.

Mycobacteria tuberculosis causes the common tuberculosis in the lungs of people and M. leprae causes leprosy in people. Different species of Mycobacterium affect all birds, animals and fish. People can become infected with fish TB but they develop small sores in the skin and surrounding tissue. These sores slowly get bigger over the following months and are called granulomas, and they require specific anti-biotics to treat them. Fish TB can only infected people if they have open wounds or sores they get contaminated with TB infected water. If you don't have any cuts or scratches on your skin, you won't get fish TB from sticking your hands in the pond.

It’s like the fish gets the wobbles and then they start to get bent in their top fin. Then they have difficulty using their tail to swim.
Before we start saying it's TB, there are a lot of other things that have to be ruled out and the symptoms provided by the OP do not indicate TB. It sounds like an external protozoan infection but I need pictures of the sick fish showing them from the side, not above.

We also need to know the water quality (ammonia, nitrite nitrate) and the water chemistry (GH and pH).
 
To upload picture on this forum, use the "Upload a File" button underneath where you type stuff. If it doesn't have the "Upload a File" button, then click the "More Options" button and it will give the you option of uploading files.

Then you find the picture you want to post and click ok.

If the picture is too big, set your camera's resolution to its lowest setting and take some more pictures. Then try posting them. The lower resolution will make the pictures smaller so they fit on here. After you have posted the pictures, turn your camera's resolution back up otherwise all your photos will be small. :)
 
Before we start saying it's TB, there are a lot of other things that have to be ruled out and the symptoms provided by the OP do not indicate TB. It sounds like an external protozoan infection but I need pictures of the sick fish showing them from the side, not above.

We also need to know the water quality (ammonia, nitrite nitrate) and the water chemistry (GH and pH).
That's fair enough, and I did emphasise the need for water quality parmeters.

It is hopefully a side track issue, but as for treatment, I know that most fish keepers recommend euthanising, but I have seen a couple of references to treating fish with antibiotics. One such reference is here. http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/disease/tbc.php
I gather it is resistant to normal aquarium antibiotics, but not to some of the same antibiotics used to treat it in humans, though research results are mixed. The most consistent positive results indicate that treatment with antibiotics may prevent spread. All of the research I've seen has been done with egg layers, rather than live bearers.

http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/201...No.-4706-Mycobacterial-Infections-of-Fish.pdf
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4425249/
It seems to be studied the most in zebra danios, though with a goal of learning more about human infections, rather than fish... https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30663918
 
Did you see the picture of the fish I took Colin. I tested my water and everything is normal. The ammonia is 0 and the ph is normal and the nitrites and nitrates are normal. So far I’ve tried general cure and Para guard and a lot of salt like 6 cups to 240 gal
 
Please answer the following questions:
1) are there any other symptoms?
2) how many grams nitrates & nitrites per litre in the water?
3) have the fish responded to any treatment?
4) what kind of filtration do you use & were the filters in place during medical treatment?
 
The nitrites were at 0 and the nitrates were good too. There’s no other symptoms only they start out slow swimming like a snake then couple days later they pretty much can only use their heads. Then they die. The fish has not responded to no treatment I’ve tried. I use a laguna filtration a big canister with a filter that goes rite around inside. Yes that was there when I did the treatment. It’s not a carbon filter
 

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