WaterBender1995
Fish Crazy
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2007
- Messages
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for some reason your links came up PRIVATE PAGE so I couldnt see them.
who told you to take the frame off? you've compromsed the rest of the glass pieces now. dont be surprised if it blows...
new sealant will NOT stick well to old!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had a 110 gallon tank, $380.00 for this SOB brand new and the top brace piece made of half inch glass popped it's seal, it's not like a end piece broke or a front/back blew out, it only came unsealed so I did TONS of research, even checked out a book from the library to try this myself, let me tell you this beautiful tank that held a huge group of schooling cyprochromis is now a habitat for corn snakes!!! When I said it isnt easy, I meant it lol. All the luck to you, I hope it works out...
on that note..
since almost every time I try and give advice here (not you iceegrl) I get some bs back I thought I'd find some text that would discribe how to reseal a tank.
FOUND HERE
How to Reseal Your Glass Aquarium
The aquarium is perhaps the most vital piece of fishkeeping equipment, but larger tanks can be expensive and silicone doesn't last forever. Resealing a leaking tank may sound like a daunting task, but it's a relatively straightforward, simple project that can save you a substantial amount of money. This article applies only to glass tanks with compromised silicone seals; the repair of acrylic tanks or glass tanks with broken or cracked panels is outside its scope.
Supplies
100% Silicone sealant (clear or black recommended)
Rubbing alcohol
Masking tape
Single-edged razor blades (available in hobby stores and hardware stores)
Paper towels
Cotton balls, swabs, or pads
Optional:
Latex Gloves
Razor blade holder
Tweezers or needle-nose pliers
Caulking gun
Small dish or shotglass
Mineral spirits
Scissors and pencil or skewer
Vacuum cleaner with hose attachment
Although aquarium sealant purchased from a pet or fish store is guaranteed safe, a more cost effective solution is to buy silicone from a home improvement store. It must, however, be 100% silicone, FDA approved for food contact surfaces and it must not contain any additives or fungicides, as these may be toxic to your fish. "GE Silicone I" is a brand known to be aquarium safe. If you are using these tubes, you will need a caulking gun in order to apply a uniform bead of sealant. Aquaria larger than 30 gallons may require multiple tubes of silicone. You will need scissors and a skewer or pencil to cut the tip and break the seal on the tube of silicone.
Preparation
Work space: Clear an area to place the aquarium that is completely flat. Working on an uneven or incomplete surface risks cracking the tank. The work area should also be well ventilated.
Prepare supplies: Have all of the things you'll need at hand; silicone dries faster than you may think.
Remove old sealant: Since fresh silicone does not adhere well to cured silicone, you must remove all the sealant from the tank and start anew. Using your razor blades, firmly press against the glass and slowly slide down underneath the silicone until you hit the glass. Repeat this along a length of sealant and then do the same on the opposite side of the sealant line.
Do not remove the top and bottom trim--it is helping to keep the glass in place!
Clean the seams: Using a cotton ball, swab or pad, clean the areas where the old sealant had been with rubbing alcohol. You can use your finger dipped in alcohol to feel for any rough or tacky spots where silicone still remains.
Repeat if necessary: If there is still silicone, let the alcohol dry and then use the razor again to remove any residue.
Tips:
Pour a bit of alcohol into a small dish or shotglass for finger dipping - this will come in handy throughout the project.
Keep your razors fresh for clean removal - it may take 2-4 blades depending on the size of the tank.
Be careful with the corner of the blade - you don't want to scratch the glass.
Its okay to remove a bit of sealant from the space where the glass meets, but don't dig so that you break that seal or pry the glass apart.
Use tweezers or needle-nose pliers to remove sealant from the corners.
Use a vacuum to remove the silicone bits and pieces as you go.
Slow, controlled razor strokes will help keep the sealant in large pieces and prevent chipping and flaking. Sometimes this is inevitable if the sealant has dried out, resulting in the mess below:
Resealing the Tank
Masking: Using the masking tape, mask the seam areas that will be resealed. There should be faint lines left behind from the old sealant; use these as a guide to determine the width. Use a razor blade to cleanly cut the tape at the corners. It will come in handy to leave "tails" of tape coming up out of the top of the tank - these will make the tape easier to remove later on.
Work in a well ventilated area and do not place your face or head inside the tank while applying silicone!
Apply the silicone: Cut the tip of your silicone tube at an angle for better application and have your dish of alcohol nearby or set it in the tank. You can use latex gloves for easy cleanup afterwards since it is a chore to remove silicone from your hands.
Starting with the bottom seams, apply the silicone in a thick and generous bead along all the bottom edges putting an extra dab of silicone in the bottom corners.
Using your thumb or forefinger dipped in alcohol, gently smooth out the silicone, slightly pressing it in toward the seam. The alcohol will prevent the silicone from sticking to your finger and provide a smooth finish. This must be done relatively quickly before the silicone begins to dry.
Once you are satisfied with your technique on the bottom repeat the process on the side corners.
When the side corners have been finished, immediately remove the masking tape before the silicone begins to dry, otherwise the tape may pull up the silicone and break the seal.
Let the silicone dry and cure - some silicone products claim that they are ready for use in 24 hours, but its best to play it safe and wait 48 hours before water testing the aquarium.
Tips:
Work with a friend - this project goes faster and is much easier with a second set of hands. While one person applies the silicone, the other can follow behind and smooth the silicone as the applier moves on to the next edge.
Don't be stingy with the silicone!
Make frequent trips to the rubbing alcohol!
Taper the edges of your silicone as it meets the masking tape so you aren't left with a thick ledge once you remove the tape.
Don't fret if you accidentally get silicone on the glass face - you can easily remove it with a razor blade after it has cured.
Mineral spirits can be used for easy cleanup or your hands and utensils, but don't use this or any other cleaning product (other than the alcohol) inside the tank.
Testing
Now its time to test your work and see if it holds water. Place the aquarium outside or in a room that can handle water on the floor, or get a large sheet of plastic or tarp to prevent water damage. First, put a couple of inches of water in the tank and check the bottom seal for any air bubbles that might be a sign of trouble. If it appears that there are no leaks, completely fill the aquarium and check for bubbles on the side seams. Leave the tank filled for a day and continue to check for leaks. Try to keep the area around the tank as dry as possible so it will be easy to detect any water that has leaked out. If there are leaks, it is in the best interest of your property, fish, and sanity to start over again, as opposed to trying to isolate the problem and reseal that specific section.
Congratulations! You've just resealed an aquarium! Thanks to your time and effort you've either salvaged a failing tank or saved a lot of money on a used aquarium. Now you're ready for the fun part - setting it up and adding fish! For more information and resources to help make your aquarium a success, check out these other Aquamaniacs Articles, or add a comment to share your own insight:
who told you to take the frame off? you've compromsed the rest of the glass pieces now. dont be surprised if it blows...
new sealant will NOT stick well to old!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had a 110 gallon tank, $380.00 for this SOB brand new and the top brace piece made of half inch glass popped it's seal, it's not like a end piece broke or a front/back blew out, it only came unsealed so I did TONS of research, even checked out a book from the library to try this myself, let me tell you this beautiful tank that held a huge group of schooling cyprochromis is now a habitat for corn snakes!!! When I said it isnt easy, I meant it lol. All the luck to you, I hope it works out...
on that note..
since almost every time I try and give advice here (not you iceegrl) I get some bs back I thought I'd find some text that would discribe how to reseal a tank.
FOUND HERE
How to Reseal Your Glass Aquarium
The aquarium is perhaps the most vital piece of fishkeeping equipment, but larger tanks can be expensive and silicone doesn't last forever. Resealing a leaking tank may sound like a daunting task, but it's a relatively straightforward, simple project that can save you a substantial amount of money. This article applies only to glass tanks with compromised silicone seals; the repair of acrylic tanks or glass tanks with broken or cracked panels is outside its scope.
Supplies
100% Silicone sealant (clear or black recommended)
Rubbing alcohol
Masking tape
Single-edged razor blades (available in hobby stores and hardware stores)
Paper towels
Cotton balls, swabs, or pads
Optional:
Latex Gloves
Razor blade holder
Tweezers or needle-nose pliers
Caulking gun
Small dish or shotglass
Mineral spirits
Scissors and pencil or skewer
Vacuum cleaner with hose attachment
Although aquarium sealant purchased from a pet or fish store is guaranteed safe, a more cost effective solution is to buy silicone from a home improvement store. It must, however, be 100% silicone, FDA approved for food contact surfaces and it must not contain any additives or fungicides, as these may be toxic to your fish. "GE Silicone I" is a brand known to be aquarium safe. If you are using these tubes, you will need a caulking gun in order to apply a uniform bead of sealant. Aquaria larger than 30 gallons may require multiple tubes of silicone. You will need scissors and a skewer or pencil to cut the tip and break the seal on the tube of silicone.
Preparation
Work space: Clear an area to place the aquarium that is completely flat. Working on an uneven or incomplete surface risks cracking the tank. The work area should also be well ventilated.
Prepare supplies: Have all of the things you'll need at hand; silicone dries faster than you may think.
Remove old sealant: Since fresh silicone does not adhere well to cured silicone, you must remove all the sealant from the tank and start anew. Using your razor blades, firmly press against the glass and slowly slide down underneath the silicone until you hit the glass. Repeat this along a length of sealant and then do the same on the opposite side of the sealant line.
Do not remove the top and bottom trim--it is helping to keep the glass in place!
Clean the seams: Using a cotton ball, swab or pad, clean the areas where the old sealant had been with rubbing alcohol. You can use your finger dipped in alcohol to feel for any rough or tacky spots where silicone still remains.
Repeat if necessary: If there is still silicone, let the alcohol dry and then use the razor again to remove any residue.
Tips:
Pour a bit of alcohol into a small dish or shotglass for finger dipping - this will come in handy throughout the project.
Keep your razors fresh for clean removal - it may take 2-4 blades depending on the size of the tank.
Be careful with the corner of the blade - you don't want to scratch the glass.
Its okay to remove a bit of sealant from the space where the glass meets, but don't dig so that you break that seal or pry the glass apart.
Use tweezers or needle-nose pliers to remove sealant from the corners.
Use a vacuum to remove the silicone bits and pieces as you go.
Slow, controlled razor strokes will help keep the sealant in large pieces and prevent chipping and flaking. Sometimes this is inevitable if the sealant has dried out, resulting in the mess below:
Resealing the Tank
Masking: Using the masking tape, mask the seam areas that will be resealed. There should be faint lines left behind from the old sealant; use these as a guide to determine the width. Use a razor blade to cleanly cut the tape at the corners. It will come in handy to leave "tails" of tape coming up out of the top of the tank - these will make the tape easier to remove later on.
Work in a well ventilated area and do not place your face or head inside the tank while applying silicone!
Apply the silicone: Cut the tip of your silicone tube at an angle for better application and have your dish of alcohol nearby or set it in the tank. You can use latex gloves for easy cleanup afterwards since it is a chore to remove silicone from your hands.
Starting with the bottom seams, apply the silicone in a thick and generous bead along all the bottom edges putting an extra dab of silicone in the bottom corners.
Using your thumb or forefinger dipped in alcohol, gently smooth out the silicone, slightly pressing it in toward the seam. The alcohol will prevent the silicone from sticking to your finger and provide a smooth finish. This must be done relatively quickly before the silicone begins to dry.
Once you are satisfied with your technique on the bottom repeat the process on the side corners.
When the side corners have been finished, immediately remove the masking tape before the silicone begins to dry, otherwise the tape may pull up the silicone and break the seal.
Let the silicone dry and cure - some silicone products claim that they are ready for use in 24 hours, but its best to play it safe and wait 48 hours before water testing the aquarium.
Tips:
Work with a friend - this project goes faster and is much easier with a second set of hands. While one person applies the silicone, the other can follow behind and smooth the silicone as the applier moves on to the next edge.
Don't be stingy with the silicone!
Make frequent trips to the rubbing alcohol!
Taper the edges of your silicone as it meets the masking tape so you aren't left with a thick ledge once you remove the tape.
Don't fret if you accidentally get silicone on the glass face - you can easily remove it with a razor blade after it has cured.
Mineral spirits can be used for easy cleanup or your hands and utensils, but don't use this or any other cleaning product (other than the alcohol) inside the tank.
Testing
Now its time to test your work and see if it holds water. Place the aquarium outside or in a room that can handle water on the floor, or get a large sheet of plastic or tarp to prevent water damage. First, put a couple of inches of water in the tank and check the bottom seal for any air bubbles that might be a sign of trouble. If it appears that there are no leaks, completely fill the aquarium and check for bubbles on the side seams. Leave the tank filled for a day and continue to check for leaks. Try to keep the area around the tank as dry as possible so it will be easy to detect any water that has leaked out. If there are leaks, it is in the best interest of your property, fish, and sanity to start over again, as opposed to trying to isolate the problem and reseal that specific section.
Congratulations! You've just resealed an aquarium! Thanks to your time and effort you've either salvaged a failing tank or saved a lot of money on a used aquarium. Now you're ready for the fun part - setting it up and adding fish! For more information and resources to help make your aquarium a success, check out these other Aquamaniacs Articles, or add a comment to share your own insight:
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