fivestarsellers1
Fish Fanatic
Intro: Neon Tetras have been known to be very hard to breed. I find that with the right methods and time it is not that difficult at all.
Here is what you will need:
Tank: Large main tank (cycled), and a 10 gallon tank.
(Can you work with different sized tanks?.... Yes you can but this is the minimum I would recommend.)
Fake Plants: at least 2-3 medium sized FLOATING plants
Live Plants: Java moss is what I use (If you need some please contact me I can sell you some)
Water Treatment: You will need peat moss (optional but recommended) and "prime"
Rain water Depending on tank size get enough rain water to fill 1/4 to 1/2 of your tank (optional)
Substrate: Nothing! Just buy round marbles (make sure they are round not the flat ones)
Filters: Sponge filter that has been in your main established tank for at least 1-2 weeks.
Heater: Depending on the size of your tank.... any 5-10 gallon tank will be fine with a 50 watt heater.
Thermometer: Floating or stick on is fine. I like to use two one on each side of the tank so I can better get a feel for how the heat in the tank is being spread out.
Adult Food:Live or freezed dried bloodworms, or you can use live grindel worms (If you need a starter culture contact me I can sell you some)
Fry FoodMircoworms (I can sell you a starter culture if u need some of these)and a Brine shrimp hatchery!
Tank Maintenance Equipment: Turkey Baster, aquarium sponge
also you will need a towel or something to cover the whole tank
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Preparing:
first your going to need to make sure you have male and female fish!! Males have a straighter blue line than females. Also your going to have to make sure you fish are at least 7-9 months old. This is when they reach there max size usually. The males will also be smaller and thinner than the females. (It should be noticeable if you pay attention)
If you have troubles sexing them then please send me a picture and I can help you!!!
Conditioing:
Then once sexed them simply feed them Blood worms and Baby brine shrimp (as a snack, I usually feed them BBS once every 2 days when im trying to breed them) for about 1-2 weeks.
^^ That is called conditioning your fish. It helps them get in the breeding mood, They get extra energy from those foods
Warning: Do not feed them bloodworms as a regular diet as they will get a pot belly (Don't believe me? try it... Jk don't try that... that would be mean)
__________________________________________________________________________________
Water:
While condition then you now need to use your peat moss (This was optional but it really helps!) Get a CLEAN bucket and fill it will the water that you need (Spring water or tap water) then add your peat moss let it soak for 36 hours then Boil all your water (after you have taken the peat moss out duh!
This makes your water safe for the fry and adults.
You will only want to do this to enough water to fill 1/2 to 3/4 of your tank
Then after that put your water in the tank.
___________________________________________________________________________________
Heating the tank:
Set your heater to 72-73 degrees. (Hopefully you keep your main tank warmer than this, If you don't then just set the temp for the breeding tank 3-4 degrees cooler than your main tank. going no cooler than 69 degrees
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Tank Prep:
Marbles should be added to your tank (You don't have to cover the whole bottom just 2/3rd of it)
Add your floating plants and java moss (java moss shouldn't be floating)
sponge filter should now be in your tank running up until you place your adults in the tank (I like to have everything set-up and running for at least 4 days before I add my adults
__________________________________________________
Moving the Pair into the tank:
Once you have conditioned them then move them into the breeding tank..........
I like to put the male in first.... put him in the breeding tank in the morning earlier the better.
Put the female in the breeding tank around sunset
^^ These aren't random times it may sound stupid but it really does help.
_____________
Covering the Tank/Watching for Eggs:
Once the female is in the tank cover it so that only about 1 inch of glass on the bottom of the front of your tank is showing. I suggest doing this on a day where you can be home all day. About every half hour move the cover up about a half inch.
This will induce spawning. Usually they will spawn in the morning at sunrise or they will at sunset
You will need to keep on eye on them and see when the female starts to drop the eggs
^^ Use a flash light for this
________________
Important Info you need to know/Do:
As soon as they are done spawning you will notice the male and female won't swim by each other like they were before this is a good time to take them out as they will eat the eggs.
The marbles were used to trap any eggs that fell so that the adults couldn't get to them.
The eggs will hatch in 24-48 hours. They are very light sensitive!!!! so don't take the cover off for along period!
Once I take my adults out I like to then adjust my heater to 76-78 degrees (No hotter than this or you fry will hatch to early and could be deformed)
_______________
Free Swimming Fry/Water Changes/Feeding/Cleaning:
The java moss will help water quality and give the fry infouria to eat.
Once they are actively swimming (1-2 days) feed them mircoworms.
Also turn on your sponge filter at this time
Also you may remove the marbles now
Then at about a week old feed them a diet of BBS and Mircoworms (with BBS being mostly feed)
Feeding them 4-5 times a day!
Water changes of 1/2 to 1 gallon a day until 14 weeks old
Then a gallon every 4 days
Use your turkey baster to pick up any uneaten food (Make sure not to suck up the fry!)
Cleaning with your turkey baster twice a day
Adding Snails: (Optional) If you want to make sure your water stays clean add one or two snails (they won't hurt the fish as long as they are free swimming) They will eat any unhatched eggs!!!
Once they look large enough (12-18 days old) Feed them Grindel worms.
Note: if you continue to feed them mircoworms there growth will slow down ALOT. Mircoworms speed up the growth more than BBS does during the first week of life. After that they are no good.
at about 3 weeks to a month they will really start to show they blue and red colors and they can now be added to the community tank or sold at your local LFS
_______________________________________________________________________________________
Selling your Fish:
Note:I have noticed 20-25 Cents to be top dollar for tetras (don't let them buy them for any less!)
_______________
Random Thoughts and Infomation:
Neon tetras will not breed in community tank
Neon Tetras do best in schools of 6 or more. This will prevent them from being to stressed and will help sick tetras heal faster and live longer when being in a group
The big thing I didn't mention is water chemistry. The Reason I didn't is because is it possible to breed neon tetras without a test kit, as long as you follow everything i said which is the basic things u need to do. Yes they prefer soft 6.8ish PH but it really doesnt make a big difference!!! everyone who says it does is wrong I have breed fish for 5 years!! The peat moss will lower the PH of the water anywayz!
Want to Breed Fish? Most Fish require or would be easier to breed if you had the things below:
If you need Java moss, Mircoworm culture, grindel worm cultures, or sponge filters please email me!
If your going to try this let me know before during and after on how your doing!!
Here is what you will need:
Tank: Large main tank (cycled), and a 10 gallon tank.
(Can you work with different sized tanks?.... Yes you can but this is the minimum I would recommend.)
Fake Plants: at least 2-3 medium sized FLOATING plants
Live Plants: Java moss is what I use (If you need some please contact me I can sell you some)
Water Treatment: You will need peat moss (optional but recommended) and "prime"
Rain water Depending on tank size get enough rain water to fill 1/4 to 1/2 of your tank (optional)
Substrate: Nothing! Just buy round marbles (make sure they are round not the flat ones)
Filters: Sponge filter that has been in your main established tank for at least 1-2 weeks.
Heater: Depending on the size of your tank.... any 5-10 gallon tank will be fine with a 50 watt heater.
Thermometer: Floating or stick on is fine. I like to use two one on each side of the tank so I can better get a feel for how the heat in the tank is being spread out.
Adult Food:Live or freezed dried bloodworms, or you can use live grindel worms (If you need a starter culture contact me I can sell you some)
Fry FoodMircoworms (I can sell you a starter culture if u need some of these)and a Brine shrimp hatchery!
Tank Maintenance Equipment: Turkey Baster, aquarium sponge
also you will need a towel or something to cover the whole tank
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Preparing:
first your going to need to make sure you have male and female fish!! Males have a straighter blue line than females. Also your going to have to make sure you fish are at least 7-9 months old. This is when they reach there max size usually. The males will also be smaller and thinner than the females. (It should be noticeable if you pay attention)
If you have troubles sexing them then please send me a picture and I can help you!!!
Conditioing:
Then once sexed them simply feed them Blood worms and Baby brine shrimp (as a snack, I usually feed them BBS once every 2 days when im trying to breed them) for about 1-2 weeks.
^^ That is called conditioning your fish. It helps them get in the breeding mood, They get extra energy from those foods
Warning: Do not feed them bloodworms as a regular diet as they will get a pot belly (Don't believe me? try it... Jk don't try that... that would be mean)
__________________________________________________________________________________
Water:
While condition then you now need to use your peat moss (This was optional but it really helps!) Get a CLEAN bucket and fill it will the water that you need (Spring water or tap water) then add your peat moss let it soak for 36 hours then Boil all your water (after you have taken the peat moss out duh!
This makes your water safe for the fry and adults.
You will only want to do this to enough water to fill 1/2 to 3/4 of your tank
Then after that put your water in the tank.
___________________________________________________________________________________
Heating the tank:
Set your heater to 72-73 degrees. (Hopefully you keep your main tank warmer than this, If you don't then just set the temp for the breeding tank 3-4 degrees cooler than your main tank. going no cooler than 69 degrees
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Tank Prep:
Marbles should be added to your tank (You don't have to cover the whole bottom just 2/3rd of it)
Add your floating plants and java moss (java moss shouldn't be floating)
sponge filter should now be in your tank running up until you place your adults in the tank (I like to have everything set-up and running for at least 4 days before I add my adults
__________________________________________________
Moving the Pair into the tank:
Once you have conditioned them then move them into the breeding tank..........
I like to put the male in first.... put him in the breeding tank in the morning earlier the better.
Put the female in the breeding tank around sunset
^^ These aren't random times it may sound stupid but it really does help.
_____________
Covering the Tank/Watching for Eggs:
Once the female is in the tank cover it so that only about 1 inch of glass on the bottom of the front of your tank is showing. I suggest doing this on a day where you can be home all day. About every half hour move the cover up about a half inch.
This will induce spawning. Usually they will spawn in the morning at sunrise or they will at sunset
You will need to keep on eye on them and see when the female starts to drop the eggs
^^ Use a flash light for this
________________
Important Info you need to know/Do:
As soon as they are done spawning you will notice the male and female won't swim by each other like they were before this is a good time to take them out as they will eat the eggs.
The marbles were used to trap any eggs that fell so that the adults couldn't get to them.
The eggs will hatch in 24-48 hours. They are very light sensitive!!!! so don't take the cover off for along period!
Once I take my adults out I like to then adjust my heater to 76-78 degrees (No hotter than this or you fry will hatch to early and could be deformed)
_______________
Free Swimming Fry/Water Changes/Feeding/Cleaning:
The java moss will help water quality and give the fry infouria to eat.
Once they are actively swimming (1-2 days) feed them mircoworms.
Also turn on your sponge filter at this time
Also you may remove the marbles now
Then at about a week old feed them a diet of BBS and Mircoworms (with BBS being mostly feed)
Feeding them 4-5 times a day!
Water changes of 1/2 to 1 gallon a day until 14 weeks old
Then a gallon every 4 days
Use your turkey baster to pick up any uneaten food (Make sure not to suck up the fry!)
Cleaning with your turkey baster twice a day
Adding Snails: (Optional) If you want to make sure your water stays clean add one or two snails (they won't hurt the fish as long as they are free swimming) They will eat any unhatched eggs!!!
Once they look large enough (12-18 days old) Feed them Grindel worms.
Note: if you continue to feed them mircoworms there growth will slow down ALOT. Mircoworms speed up the growth more than BBS does during the first week of life. After that they are no good.
at about 3 weeks to a month they will really start to show they blue and red colors and they can now be added to the community tank or sold at your local LFS
_______________________________________________________________________________________
Selling your Fish:
Note:I have noticed 20-25 Cents to be top dollar for tetras (don't let them buy them for any less!)
_______________
Random Thoughts and Infomation:
Neon tetras will not breed in community tank
Neon Tetras do best in schools of 6 or more. This will prevent them from being to stressed and will help sick tetras heal faster and live longer when being in a group
The big thing I didn't mention is water chemistry. The Reason I didn't is because is it possible to breed neon tetras without a test kit, as long as you follow everything i said which is the basic things u need to do. Yes they prefer soft 6.8ish PH but it really doesnt make a big difference!!! everyone who says it does is wrong I have breed fish for 5 years!! The peat moss will lower the PH of the water anywayz!
Want to Breed Fish? Most Fish require or would be easier to breed if you had the things below:
If you need Java moss, Mircoworm culture, grindel worm cultures, or sponge filters please email me!
If your going to try this let me know before during and after on how your doing!!
And I wouldn't know about breeding them, as would lots of other people. So I can't comment on this for that very reason
