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Brand New Tank, Bacterial Bloom?

So shall I just add a tad of ammonia to keep the bacteria alive while i try to reduce the nitrites more? Because I dont want to add too much and have nitrites sky high...
 
I'd half your current ammonia dose until the nitrite drops, then slowly raise the ammonia back up again.
 
Alright, ive put it to just under 2ppm :)
 
thanks for all the help with this btw eagle
 
Just done another test, 0 ammonia, meaning the tanks dealt with that in less than 24 hours :) nitrites still 5+ though, and nitrates still rising... think I should pwc to dilute the nitrites and give the filter a chance to catch up?
 
There's logic on both sides of that debate. I'd wait a few days to see if it will fall on its own. If it doesn't by Wednesday, then I'd do one.
 
Alright I'll keep an eye on it, if it falls under an easily readable 5ppm I'll leave it, If not i'll judge a WC to try and get it to 2-3ppm :) Thanks again Eagle.
 
Just read over this thread and it looks like you got some great help.  Here is a little section I pulled from my book I wrote on Fish Keeping. 
 
"A very common occurence in a newly set up tank is a Baterial Bloom.  This is where the water seems hazy/cloudy.  At this point, beginner fish keepers will seek teh aid of products that claim to clear "new tank syndrome" when in fact theu will not.  This is what the hazy water is.  There is another type of bacteria called Heterotrophic bacteria.  What happens in a newly setup tank is when the fish keeper sets everything up abd hadds water conditioner to their tank.  The water conditioner quickly enables the water to support life.  This allows the Heterotrophic bacteria to quickly colonize in large numbers and go to work ont he organics in the water.  So, the hazy/cloudy water is actually millions of Heterotrophic bacteria feeding off the organics in the water, and this is relatively harmless.  Since Heterotrophic bacetria are larger than our friendly Autotrophic bacteria, Hetertrophic bacteria cannot attache themselves to surfaces, so they are free-swimming and this is what we see.  Over the course of a few days the Heterotrophic bacteria will soon dies off and the water will become clear, once again."
 
You can contact me if you want to read the full book online.  It takes you step-by-step througha fishless cycle and goes into some good detail about other things as well.
 
So far you are doing great.  And are you aware of when you can tell your tank is fully cycled?  It will be the 12 hour mark, not the 24 hour mark.  When you can take 5 ppm of ammonia and bring that down to 0 ppm (along with nitrite) in 12 hours then you are fully cycled.   There are still some things to do at this point, too.
 
Keep up the good work!
[SIZE=12pt]A very common occurrence in a newly set up tank is a ‘Bacterial Bloom.’  [/SIZE]This is where the water seems hazy/cloudy.  At this point, beginner fish keepers will seek the aid of products that claim they clear “New Tank Syndrome” when in fact they will not.  This is what the hazy water is.   There is another type of bacteria in our water source, a type of bacteria that is not beneficial to us at all.  This type of bacteria is called Heterotrophic bacteria.  What happens in a newly setup tank is when the fish keeper sets everything up and then adds water conditioner to their tank.  The water conditioner quickly enables the water to support life.  This allows the Heterotrophic bacteria to quickly colonize in large numbers and go to work on the organics in the water. So, the hazy/cloudy water is actually millions of Heterotrophic bacteria feeding off the organics in the water, and this is relatively harmless.  Since Heterotrophic bacteria are larger than our friendly Autotrophic bacteria, Heterotrophic cannot attach themselves to surfaces, so they are free-swimming and that is what we see.  Over the course of a few days, the Heterotrophic bacteria will soon die off and the water will be clear again.
 
[SIZE=12pt]A very common occurrence in a newly set up tank is a ‘Bacterial Bloom.’  [/SIZE]This is where the water seems hazy/cloudy.  At this point, beginner fish keepers will seek the aid of products that claim they clear “New Tank Syndrome” when in fact they will not.  This is what the hazy water is.   There is another type of bacteria in our water source, a type of bacteria that is not beneficial to us at all.  This type of bacteria is called Heterotrophic bacteria.  What happens in a newly setup tank is when the fish keeper sets everything up and then adds water conditioner to their tank.  The water conditioner quickly enables the water to support life.  This allows the Heterotrophic bacteria to quickly colonize in large numbers and go to work on the organics in the water. So, the hazy/cloudy water is actually millions of Heterotrophic bacteria feeding off the organics in the water, and this is relatively harmless.  Since Heterotrophic bacteria are larger than our friendly Autotrophic bacteria, Heterotrophic cannot attach themselves to surfaces, so they are free-swimming and that is what we see.  Over the course of a few days, the Heterotrophic bacteria will soon die off and the water will be clear again.
 
[SIZE=12pt]A very common occurrence in a newly set up tank is a ‘Bacterial Bloom.’  [/SIZE]This is where the water seems hazy/cloudy.  At this point, beginner fish keepers will seek the aid of products that claim they clear “New Tank Syndrome” when in fact they will not.  This is what the hazy water is.   There is another type of bacteria in our water source, a type of bacteria that is not beneficial to us at all.  This type of bacteria is called Heterotrophic bacteria.  What happens in a newly setup tank is when the fish keeper sets everything up and then adds water conditioner to their tank.  The water conditioner quickly enables the water to support life.  This allows the Heterotrophic bacteria to quickly colonize in large numbers and go to work on the organics in the water. So, the hazy/cloudy water is actually millions of Heterotrophic bacteria feeding off the organics in the water, and this is relatively harmless.  Since Heterotrophic bacteria are larger than our friendly Autotrophic bacteria, Heterotrophic cannot attach themselves to surfaces, so they are free-swimming and that is what we see.  Over the course of a few days, the Heterotrophic bacteria will soon die off and the water will be clear again.
 
Thanks Minnow ^_^
 
Well we have good news and bad news.
Good news is the Ammonia I've been dosing to keep the bacteria alive is being devoured in a matter of hours, I put it to 4ppm at 9am before heading out this morning, and did one 30 minutes ago once I got home and It's ZERO! :D
Bad news is after taking that Ammonia reading, I did a Nitrite one, which was still through the roof and a nice fuschia colour. Now as Eagle advised I did a WC, 50% to be exact, hoping to bring Nitrites down to a more readable level on my API kit. Anyways after the 50% I took another reading immediately (while the tank was all disturbed from the fill) which was still at least 5ppm....
 
Unsure of where to go from here... For all I know I could have successfully WC'd down to ACTUAL 5ppm (instead of guessing as 5 is the readable max) and I should wait to see if the tank kickstarts at this level.... Or do I do another WC, 60-75% and aim to bring it to 2-3ppm, which I can monitor more accurately.... any ideas? :)
 
I'd do another WC, if the 50% WC didn't lower the reading, because it was higher than the scale, then do a LARGER WC to bring it down to a readable level.  75% or even 90% would be fine (remember the bacteria we are cultivated live on SURFACES not in the water) to bring the nitrItes down to a very low level - the bacteria we are looking to grow actually thrive under VERY LOW levels of nitrite, so that will ultimately help you.
 
 
This is all quite normal. The AOB (ammonia oxidizing bacteria) develop first because their food supply is available first.  The NOB (nitrite oxidizing bacteria) won't start to develop their colony until after the AOBs are well on their way to being fully developed.  The WC will help the NOBs catch up and deal with the nitrite being produced.  Everything is fine.
 
Incidentally, if you want to test the water in the tank NOW, and get a reading, you can add 1ml tank water and 4ml tap water (assuming you have no nitrites in your tap).  Test the tube as usual and multiply your result by 5 to get an approximate value for the actual concentration in your tank.  To do this, you'll need a medicine syringe, but these are easily sourced from any pharmacy/chemist.
 
I'm just about to have dinner but as soon as I'm done I'll do the 1ml/4ml dilution test and see what we're getting that way :) Tap water is 0 Nitrites as I've tested before, although it is 33.5 Nitrates.... the water board report also agrees with the 33ppm too.... so that'll be fun to deal with considering the local center doesnt do RO water....
 
Plant heavily, feed sparingly and do very regular water changes... twice a week smaller changes will help.  Also stock fish that are "hardier".  
 
I was hoping no to plant the tank just yet, being new to this and all I wanted to do it kinda piece by piece. What about a combi of Spring/Tap water? or pure spring with some magic added? (I know the elements etc in tap water are what the fish and water itself need for stability, just wondering if its available as a sort of add in conditioner?)
 
Anyways the 1ml/4ml result: 0.75-1ppm.... meaning theoretically my tank is 5ppm atm, shall i do a 60% change to aim for 2ppm?
 
Also after inspecting the small spring water bottle i bought at Tesco earlier (to test ph etc so i knew the parameters if it was to be used as tank water) the Nitrates in there are 11ppm anyways.... so I guess even without the KH/PH/GH taken into consideration a 50/50 mix would still be around 20ppm..... so i guess thats out the window.
 
Why do you want to use spring water?  And yes, most water conditioners also contain trace elements for the fish.  5ppm of ammonia I am assuming?  For a cycling tank that is where you want to put the ammonia at.  So keep the ammonia at 5 ppm and let the autotrophic bacteria do their thing.
 
EDIT:  After reading again I see you are talking about nitrites. 
 
As eagle has said the nitrifying bacteria or, Nitrobacter, colonize after the Nitrosomonas (ammonia oxidizing bacteria) do. 
 
Honestly I have never had to do WC's to bring down nitrite.  I have had super high nitrites but never any issues.  When we do these fishless cycles the most improtant thing to not do is add too much ammonia.  Usually about 8-10ppm and above in ammonia and we will start to colonize a different type of bacteria that will later come back and haunt us.  I have never heard or read anything about having too high of nitrites.  This is because after the Nitrosomonas have developed (the correct type of autotrophica bacteria) then only the Nitrobacter will develope and colonize.  So having a high level of nitrite in a fishless cycle is not a bad thing but I can see where it can be un readable on the API test kit.
 
In all honesty I would not do W/C because this will mess up with the ammonia levels you are adding to the tank and will cause a huge flucuation in ammonia level unless you test and add right away.  To me this would be more of a headache.  I would, since you are nearly there, just let the nitrogen cycle run its course. 
 
No the ammonia bacteria are fine, theyre smashing through 4-5ppm in 8-10 hours... the 5ppm i was referring to was Nitrites. If you read through from your last post you'll see where we're up to :p
 

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