Brackish Stocking Questions

[Ceramicbull]

I've got a 29 gallon brackish tank (SG about 1.008 atm) and the nitrogen cycle is ever so close to being done. Now, I already had a stocking plan that I ran by a well reputed LFS guy, but the more I read aquarist forums the less I am inclined to trust anyone employed by a pet store. The plan was:

I just discovered a website that is automatically censored when I try to type it in (I assume there is a good reason, but look up if you must know) about 5 minutes ago and it considers this setup 101% stocked. However; I have an oversize filter (AquaClear 50), live plants (2 Java Ferns), and said website lists a larger (about 2 inches bigger) species of Flounder than the more common (at least in Arizona) Achirus lineatus. Could my tank possibly handle that stock or should I just accept this website's findings?

Also, the website suggests that Orange Chromides can't coexist with Dalmatian Mollies: the mollies max out at a 7.8pH and the Chromides require a minimum of 8. I've had my pH at about 7.8 for a while now, and the Mollies haven't seemed to mind. AquariumLife.net lists Orange Chromides as low as 7. Anyone have any personal experience?

If the plan is flawed, suggestions are welcome. The only thing I can't change is the 3 Mollies, as they're already at work cycling the tank. Perhaps switching the (apparently) difficult to find Chromides for Bumblebee Gobies? (92% capacity) Just going with the first 3 species? (86% capacity) More Mollies or Knight Gobys? Different fish altogether?

Thanks for any help and I hope it wasn't too long to read.

C-Bull

 

[OldMan47]

Welcome to our forum Ceramicbull.
One of the reasons that site is not easy to link to from here is that it is far too simplistic in its recommendations and people accept what it says way too readily.
I can say that the stocking you suggest looks good to me except for the chromides. I really don't know enough about them to know if they would work in that water or how big they get. Another thing to be aware of is that not all species do well together even if they like the same water. I am not a brackish person so I just don't know enough to advise on species compatibility. I doubt the chromides really need a pH of 7.0, they would not tolerate any significant salt if they preferred water that low in pH. Sea salt, the kind they use to set up a salt water tank, will push the pH to about 8 or a bit more and any other salt is not suitable for brackish fish. Pet shop mollies are fine in salt water aquariums so I am certain they will be fine at the higher pH, although I keep mine in a purely freshwater setup with no troubles at 7.8. I did find another post on our own forum that discusses the chromides so maybe it would help you a bit. It is located here.

 

[Ceramicbull]

One of the reasons that site is not easy to link to from here is that it is far too simplistic in its recommendations and people accept what it says way too readily.

That's more or less what I figured. I could have just rephrased much of the post as "can I trust this website," I suppose. Sounds like my LFS guy is still trustworthy. for now...

I doubt the chromides really need a pH of 7.0, they would not tolerate any significant salt if they preferred water that low in pH. Sea salt, the kind they use to set up a salt water tank, will push the pH to about 8 or a bit more and any other salt is not suitable for brackish fish. Pet shop mollies are fine in salt water aquariums so I am certain they will be fine at the higher pH although I keep mine in a purely freshwater setup with no troubles at 7.8.

Unfortunately you misread me here. The problem was that several sources claim that the Mollies can't take a pH GREATER than 7.8, whereas several sources say the Chromides can't handle a pH LESS than 8. There are others that claim that the Mollies can handle -up to- 8.5 and the chromides as low as 7, but not as many. Perhaps you don't know about Chromides, but have you seen Mollies at 8 or higher without trouble?

I can say that the stocking you suggest looks good to me except for the chromides. I really don't know enough about them to know if they would work in that water or how big they get. Another thing to be aware of is that not all species do well together even if they like the same water. I am not a brackish person so I just don't know enough to advise on species compatibility.... I did find another post on our own forum that discusses the chromides so maybe it would help you a bit. It is located here.

Thank you for the link, it answered a lot of questions but unfortunately not "will the chromides work". You did however clue me into the brackish forum, so I'll likely make a more condensed post there shortly. I've found a number of testimonials mentioning all the other fish, so it sounds like they will get along decently well (so long as no one fits in the other's mouth). The question is will they fit in this size of tank in those numbers. I wanted the Chromides for a dash of color(yeah, skittles, I know), and also to balance the more bizzare looking flounder and gobies in form. To be honest I haven't been able to see Chromides live. No LFS here seems to carry them, and I can't even find an online dealer with them in stock; so there may be practical reasons why I won't be getting them.

Thanks.

C-Bull

 

[OldMan47]

The mollies will be fine in a salty tank as long as you are using saltwater type salt and not the aquarium salt. I do not keep any in salt water so I can only go by what I know intellectually. Since pet shop mollies are used to cycle saltwater tanks, they must, by definition, be OK in the high pH associated with that water. Please do not make the common mistake of thinking pH is important for fish health. Within reason, pH is irrelevant but mineral content is not. People infer that the pH they read must mean something while the water in a planted location, the kind of place where freshwater fish thrive, varies as much as a whole number in a single day. If fish were not readily adaptable to pH swings, our lakes would be sterile.

 

[Ceramicbull]

Please do not make the common mistake of thinking pH is important for fish health. Within reason, pH is irrelevant but mineral content is not. People infer that the pH they read must mean something while the water in a planted location, the kind of place where freshwater fish thrive, varies as much as a whole number in a single day. If fish were not readily adaptable to pH swings, our lakes would be sterile.

So it sounds like I am the one who misunderstood.

Thanks again,

C-Bull

 

[OldMan47]

You are on the track of a nice brackish tank in my estimation. Keep doing your homework and you will be soon telling us what works and what doesn't. Good luck in your adventure Ceramicbull.