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Bottom feeders for nano tank?

Kerryjoy

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Hello,

I have a 6gal Fluval tank which is long rather than wide so nice swimming space.

I have a Betta in it at the moment, but i would really like some bottom feeders if I could(tried shrimp and he ate them all!) so this won't work.

Any suitable ideas please?
(I am planting more plants soon) corys I believe need more space?

Thanks
 

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Betta are stand alone fish, especially males. I know some have said they have corys with a Betta, and it might work, but the normal-sized species would be crowded in this tank as you suggest. There are the "dwarf" species, but I personally would not put these in with a Betta, especially as he considered the shrimp food. The dwarf species spend more time in the upper water level than on the substrate, and this is a real risk. I would let the Betta enjoy his space alone; he'll be happier without perceived threats.

That is a lovely aquarium. My one suggestion would be to find some floating plants. Betta live among floating vegetation, and he would appreciate them. Water Sprite (Ceratopteris cornuta) is ideal.

Byron.
 
Thank you for advice, I thought that would be the case. I know Bettas need changes to stay less bored so I thought having something in with him would keep him active But he is happy alone I know that much.

What Is your advice about a few little neons? Or Ember Tetras? (was told they live side by side in the wild in similar waters?)

I have a couple of carpet plants coming soon which I'm giving a go.
Thanks for the advice about floating plants, I did see that Bettas like these, I was just worried they may block out the light to my other plants ? I wasn't sure, but I would love to give them a go.

I think I will change the light eventually anyway to a more higher one, to help turn this into a nice rich planted tank :)

Kerry
 
Tetras can be nippy and might nip his tail.

Some snails would work. 1 Mystery snail or a few Assassins.

Nice tank but like Byron said you need more plants including floating ones.
 
I was also going to suggest snails - they are fun to watch and great cleaners! The only issue is that snails need hard-ish water to help keep their shells strong and avoid deterioration. I have no experience with bettas so not sure what their preferred water parameters are - NickAu and Byron will be able to help you with that one :)
 
Thank you for advice, I thought that would be the case. I know Bettas need changes to stay less bored so I thought having something in with him would keep him active But he is happy alone I know that much.

What Is your advice about a few little neons? Or Ember Tetras? (was told they live side by side in the wild in similar waters?)

I have a couple of carpet plants coming soon which I'm giving a go.
Thanks for the advice about floating plants, I did see that Bettas like these, I was just worried they may block out the light to my other plants ? I wasn't sure, but I would love to give them a go.

I think I will change the light eventually anyway to a more higher one, to help turn this into a nice rich planted tank :)

Kerry

Lots to comment here...starting with the fish. Whomever told you Betta live side by side with tetras in the wild is under a major misapprehension. Tetras are characins, and the characidae live in South America, a couple species in Central America, and a few species in Central Africa. Betta are native to SE Asia; their natural range is throughout central Thailand, occurring in very still and sluggish water such as rice paddies, swamps, ditches, ponds and small streams with very low flow. I do not know what other species inhabit the same watercourses, but I am sure there are some--but certainly not tetras ;) and in nature fish are able to avoid one another which is something they cannot do in the artificial confines of an aquarium. Now, the Betta has been bred commercially for decades of course, but this does not remove inherent behaviours or requirements, and even to the contrary, the fish has been bred to strengthen its nasty disposition, so they are even more aggressive. You can read more (and very reliable) data here:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/betta-splendens/

To the plants. Light is the most important factor in live plants. Looking at what is in the tank in the photo, the large plant is an Anubias barteri which is low light. The little plants may be Eleocharis parvula (Dwarf Hairgrass), or maybe Lilaeopsis which is very similar. These require bright light. With the light there are also nutrients, and low light means less nutrients than bright light which requires higher nutrients to balance. But if the light is bright, the Anubias may have problems; algae on this plant is common in brighter lighting. Floating plants would go a long way to fix this. But substrate cover or carpet plants are not the easiest to grow. And another factor comes in here...brighter light is not appreciated by fish. It causes stress which may lead to paler colours.

I might offer some ideas here. With the Anubias, add some lower-light plants like Java Fern, Java Moss, and/or pygmy chain swords. The latter is South American in origin, but if you are not wanting to be geographically accurate it won't matter. I have this in several tanks, under my low/moderate and moderate lighting.

Not knowing what the present lighting is, in terms of intensity and spectrum, I can't offer much more. But just be cognizant that with higher light comes the need for floaters (for the sake of the fish), and increased nutrients (fertilizers). As it stands now, if you are not using any fertilizer, it might help to consider a comprehensive one like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement. They make several different products under the Flourish name, but this is the complete basic you want. Also keep in mind that as you increase plants, there is a greater drain on the existing nutrients, so if for example they were sufficient now (naturally occurring, without additives) they might not be sufficient with more plants. Especially floating which being faster growing require more "food" to be healthy.

I also see some algae issues in the photo, on the Anubias leaves and among the Hairgrass. This is due to lighting and nutrients, but without knowing more of both it is difficult to pin anything down.

Byron.
 
Hello,

I have a 6gal Fluval tank which is long rather than wide so nice swimming space.

I have a Betta in it at the moment, but i would really like some bottom feeders if I could(tried shrimp and he ate them all!) so this won't work.

Any suitable ideas please?
(I am planting more plants soon) corys I believe need more space?

Thanks
if you where to have the shrimp or the bottom feeder before you added the betta (it would be "their" territory) I would say yea they'd be fine (maybe not the shrimp though) but now im pretty iffy, think the betta would nip at anything in that small of a tank. in my fluval v (same as yours) I have 3 female bettas (yes ik they are "schooling" fish, they are temporarily there until 75G, they moved with me :l)
 
I have 3 female bettas (yes ik they are "schooling" fish,

Not trying to be rude but that is incorrect.

Bettas including females are solitary fish and should be kept that way, Some people keep females in a sorority tank, Sometimes it works sometimes it don't, and sometimes it works for a while only to end in disaster. A sorority tank needs to be at least a 20 g long and heavily planted with at least 5 females.

In my opinion, Sororities are not a natural way for female Bettas to live, They are very stressful and a ticking time bomb. I heard that if the females are sisters and introduced to the tank when young there is more chance of success.

Its a misconception that females like to live in groups, Females can be and quite often are just as aggressive as males, Anybody who has bred Bettas will tell you that, Just like people who put caves in a Bettas tank, Bettas are surface dwelling fish and need lots of floating plants to feel secure, They do not like to be in caves, they use them because its the only shelter they have.

And I mean it I am not trying to be rude or anything like that, these are the facts of Betta keeping.
 
Last edited:
Lots to comment here...starting with the fish. Whomever told you Betta live side by side with tetras in the wild is under a major misapprehension. Tetras are characins, and the characidae live in South America, a couple species in Central America, and a few species in Central Africa. Betta are native to SE Asia; their natural range is throughout central Thailand, occurring in very still and sluggish water such as rice paddies, swamps, ditches, ponds and small streams with very low flow. I do not know what other species inhabit the same watercourses, but I am sure there are some--but certainly not tetras ;) and in nature fish are able to avoid one another which is something they cannot do in the artificial confines of an aquarium. Now, the Betta has been bred commercially for decades of course, but this does not remove inherent behaviours or requirements, and even to the contrary, the fish has been bred to strengthen its nasty disposition, so they are even more aggressive. You can read more (and very reliable) data here:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/betta-splendens/

To the plants. Light is the most important factor in live plants. Looking at what is in the tank in the photo, the large plant is an Anubias barteri which is low light. The little plants may be Eleocharis parvula (Dwarf Hairgrass), or maybe Lilaeopsis which is very similar. These require bright light. With the light there are also nutrients, and low light means less nutrients than bright light which requires higher nutrients to balance. But if the light is bright, the Anubias may have problems; algae on this plant is common in brighter lighting. Floating plants would go a long way to fix this. But substrate cover or carpet plants are not the easiest to grow. And another factor comes in here...brighter light is not appreciated by fish. It causes stress which may lead to paler colours.

I might offer some ideas here. With the Anubias, add some lower-light plants like Java Fern, Java Moss, and/or pygmy chain swords. The latter is South American in origin, but if you are not wanting to be geographically accurate it won't matter. I have this in several tanks, under my low/moderate and moderate lighting.

Not knowing what the present lighting is, in terms of intensity and spectrum, I can't offer much more. But just be cognizant that with higher light comes the need for floaters (for the sake of the fish), and increased nutrients (fertilizers). As it stands now, if you are not using any fertilizer, it might help to consider a comprehensive one like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement. They make several different products under the Flourish name, but this is the complete basic you want. Also keep in mind that as you increase plants, there is a greater drain on the existing nutrients, so if for example they were sufficient now (naturally occurring, without additives) they might not be sufficient with more plants. Especially floating which being faster growing require more "food" to be healthy.

I also see some algae issues in the photo, on the Anubias leaves and among the Hairgrass. This is due to lighting and nutrients, but without knowing more of both it is difficult to pin anything down.

Byron.
Lots to comment here...starting with the fish. Whomever told you Betta live side by side with tetras in the wild is under a major misapprehension. Tetras are characins, and the characidae live in South America, a couple species in Central America, and a few species in Central Africa. Betta are native to SE Asia; their natural range is throughout central Thailand, occurring in very still and sluggish water such as rice paddies, swamps, ditches, ponds and small streams with very low flow. I do not know what other species inhabit the same watercourses, but I am sure there are some--but certainly not tetras ;) and in nature fish are able to avoid one another which is something they cannot do in the artificial confines of an aquarium. Now, the Betta has been bred commercially for decades of course, but this does not remove inherent behaviours or requirements, and even to the contrary, the fish has been bred to strengthen its nasty disposition, so they are even more aggressive. You can read more (and very reliable) data here:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/betta-splendens/

To the plants. Light is the most important factor in live plants. Looking at what is in the tank in the photo, the large plant is an Anubias barteri which is low light. The little plants may be Eleocharis parvula (Dwarf Hairgrass), or maybe Lilaeopsis which is very similar. These require bright light. With the light there are also nutrients, and low light means less nutrients than bright light which requires higher nutrients to balance. But if the light is bright, the Anubias may have problems; algae on this plant is common in brighter lighting. Floating plants would go a long way to fix this. But substrate cover or carpet plants are not the easiest to grow. And another factor comes in here...brighter light is not appreciated by fish. It causes stress which may lead to paler colours.

I might offer some ideas here. With the Anubias, add some lower-light plants like Java Fern, Java Moss, and/or pygmy chain swords. The latter is South American in origin, but if you are not wanting to be geographically accurate it won't matter. I have this in several tanks, under my low/moderate and moderate lighting.

Not knowing what the present lighting is, in terms of intensity and spectrum, I can't offer much more. But just be cognizant that with higher light comes the need for floaters (for the sake of the fish), and increased nutrients (fertilizers). As it stands now, if you are not using any fertilizer, it might help to consider a comprehensive one like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement. They make several different products under the Flourish name, but this is the complete basic you want. Also keep in mind that as you increase plants, there is a greater drain on the existing nutrients, so if for example they were sufficient now (naturally occurring, without additives) they might not be sufficient with more plants. Especially floating which being faster growing require more "food" to be healthy.

I also see some algae issues in the photo, on the Anubias leaves and among the Hairgrass. This is due to lighting and nutrients, but without knowing more of both it is difficult to pin anything down.

Byron.



Thanks for the history and great advice.
Anubias are slow growing plants like you say and from what I read this is why algae grows on them easily. Like you say, bright light could be the factor...

I will defiantly try a floating plant and maybe Pygmy swords :)

The plants I have at the moment are anubias and hair grass
Originally I was growing these in a 2.6 gallon with my betta but I wanted to 1) give him more space 2) more plants
It's a work in progress and I'm taking my time with it
The hairgrass wasn't doing well in the smaller tank, I moved it to this one and it's started to grow better (I have a layer of dennerle aquarium plant nutrient on the bottom)
I have since ordered so far
Sagitaria subulata
Staurogyne rubescens
These suited my tank from all the information I read.
I wanted some longer grass like flowing plants, but it's hard to find for a smaller tank. Java fern I believe you need to tie to bog wood as roots rot? I want to plant plants rather than have floating ones if I can.

The lights in my Fluval tank are apparently '37 powerful LED lights' ....but I think they are low to medium and not amazing!
I do use a liquid fertiliser for my tank (once a month as it says on instructions) I know this is important food for them to grow!

I think I will leave my betta in peace and alone, maybe add some larger shrimp when it's more planted for them to hide etc
I will let it mature first.
Maybe a snail? But I'm worried about them taking over my tank as they can be a pest?!

Thanks
Kerry
 
if you where to have the shrimp or the bottom feeder before you added the betta (it would be "their" territory) I would say yea they'd be fine (maybe not the shrimp though) but now im pretty iffy, think the betta would nip at anything in that small of a tank. in my fluval v (same as yours) I have 3 female bettas (yes ik they are "schooling" fish, they are temporarily there until 75G, they moved with me :l)

if you where to have the shrimp or the bottom feeder before you added the betta (it would be "their" territory) I would say yea they'd be fine (maybe not the shrimp though) but now im pretty iffy, think the betta would nip at anything in that small of a tank. in my fluval v (same as yours) I have 3 female bettas (yes ik they are "schooling" fish, they are temporarily there until 75G, they moved with me :l)

Thanks, I think I will leave my betta in peace for now and focus on more plant growth I don't want him to be nipped at or jealous of other fish in his tank Maybe after in future if I went bigger with a tank I'll experiment :)
good luck with the tank Always interested me serority tanks!
 
I was also going to suggest snails - they are fun to watch and great cleaners! The only issue is that snails need hard-ish water to help keep their shells strong and avoid deterioration. I have no experience with bettas so not sure what their preferred water parameters are - NickAu and Byron will be able to help you with that one :)

Thanks for this, I will be looking into snails in the near future as an alternative
 
My old betta terrorized my neon tetras. I had to move him.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, Hard to know what they will do....so best to keep them alone I think, mine creeps around every inch of his tank throughout the day, basically stalks it all!! Searching for invaders
 
Tetras can be nippy and might nip his tail.

Some snails would work. 1 Mystery snail or a few Assassins.

Nice tank but like Byron said you need more plants including floating ones.

Thanks defiantly a work in progress :) I'm planting more and more plants so I will see how it gets along :)
I've decided I won't get any fish to keep him company in this smaller space!
 
2 or 3 assassin snails would be cool
 

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