Black neon tetra sudden behavior change

[Byron]

I trust Colin on this, and I have myself seen this once or twice and the fish never recovers nomatter what you do. Be kind, net the fish out and euthanize it now. Prolonging the poor creature's life is not kind. The fish may or may not have "feelings" as we think of them, but it knows it is not well.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Thanks for your response. I did worry about messing up the bacterial ecosystem, but I decided to clean the plant ornaments since they developed a bloom of algae growth. I use an Aquatech filter that has the bio grid that I leave alone and the carbon filter cartridges. I didn't clean out the filter itself but just tossed the old cartridge since it was so grimey with sludge and fish waste after 2 months. What's your advice about these types of cartridges with activated carbon in them? So far I've seen advice that if it gets to the point where one would have to change the cartridge, they could cut a piece of the old floss padding and add it in with the new cartridge. What are your thoughts on that?

Also, I have a bottle of Fritz Turbo Start in the fridge from when I first moved. Should I add a little of that to the tank water for the current situation? The treatment I already normally use during water changes is API Stress Coat, Stress Zyme, and Quick Start. And I already do have a long air stone in the tank for added oxygen.

I've been watching the black neon and he just chooses to swim against the current of the filtered water flow.

Just remove the filter cartridge and use sponge. You can tuck the sponge behind the cartridge for awhile until the bacteria grows on it. Any bottled bacteria you use may help. Many on here don’t use products like Stress Coat but after a study on Prime, I swear by Stress Coat for my bettas. I still use Prime for my goldfish though. Everyone has their preferences.

 

[Byron]

Just remove the filter cartridge and use sponge. You can tuck the sponge behind the cartridge for awhile until the bacteria grows on it. Any bottled bacteria you use may help. Many on here don’t use products like Stress Coat but after a study on Prime, I swear by Stress Coat for my bettas. I still use Prime for my goldfish though. Everyone has their preferences.

The problem with StressCoat is it contains aloe vera. Scientific studies have now shown that long--term use does harm fish gills and the fish will die. Even if your Betta might not succumb to this, I don't think any of us can assume it is not being negatively impacted simply becaue of what aloe vera does.

Prime I won't use unless one has ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in the source water. Seachem won't explain how Prime messes about with the science, obviously because they don't want to give away their formulae for products, understandable; but there is no benefit to fish having these chemicals in their tank for no reason. Clean water free of all unnecessary chemicals will always mean healthier fish.

 

[FishGuest5123]

The problem with StressCoat is it contains aloe vera. Scientific studies have now shown that long--term use does harm fish gills and the fish will die. Even if your Betta might not succumb to this, I don't think any of us can assume it is not being negatively impacted simply becaue of what aloe vera does.

Prime I won't use unless one has ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in the source water. Seachem won't explain how Prime messes about with the science, obviously because they don't want to give away their formulae for products, understandable; but there is no benefit to fish having these chemicals in their tank for no reason. Clean water free of all unnecessary chemicals will always mean healthier fish.

I’ve gone to Stress Coat because of the tail shredding problems that I was having. Dr. Dave (my vet friend) actually recommended the Stress Coat. He had done a study on Prime and found some things he didn’t like. (I forgot now and will have to ask). My bettas no longer have tail issues. I am aware of the article about Stress Coat though. To me, it seems to be the lesser of 2 evils. I realize that there is a lot of controversy about this. I have to go by how my fish look and act. They simply look better on the Stress Coat. You will get different opinions on every article you read. This is from Betta Fish Care... Aloe vera is a known stress reducer and when you add it to your tank it's going to get to work. As well as this it also helps your bettas slime coat. ... When your betta is sick or has a weak immune system his slime coat will dry out.

I’m not disagreeing either way. Time will tell.

 

[LostBear]

I trust Colin on this, and I have myself seen this once or twice and the fish never recovers nomatter what you do. Be kind, net the fish out and euthanize it now. Prolonging the poor creature's life is not kind. The fish may or may not have "feelings" as we think of them, but it knows it is not well.

How do you euthanise a fish? I think it's something it would be useful to know in case the worst happens.

 

[Byron]

How do you euthanise a fish? I think it's something it would be useful to know in case the worst happens.

The method I have used for several years was rated as the most humane to the fish in an article in Practical Fishkeeping a couple of years back. Net out the fish and place it on a folded over paper towel (use 2-3 sheets). Fold the towel over and around it, and lay it on a hard surface and give the "lump" a solid whack. I use my hand, some prefer a stick. You don't see anything if you have sufficient paper toweling, and the fish is instantly killed without any pain, and without any of the stress it will experience with any other method.

 

[Essjay]

This is the article that Byron is referring to (I think!) https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/fishkeeping-news/painful-fish-deaths-you-might-be-guilty

 

[LostBear]

The method I have used for several years was rated as the most humane to the fish in an article in Practical Fishkeeping a couple of years back. Net out the fish and place it on a folded over paper towel (use 2-3 sheets). Fold the towel over and around it, and lay it on a hard surface and give the "lump" a solid whack. I use my hand, some prefer a stick. You don't see anything if you have sufficient paper toweling, and the fish is instantly killed without any pain, and without any of the stress it will experience with any other method.

Thank you. I would have to ask Mr LostBear to do anything like this - I'm very squeamish.

My instinct would have been to drop it into iced water. Would the shock not cause instant death?

 

[Essjay]

Read the article in my link! It covers ice water.......

 

[Retired Viking]

Like @Byron I prefer to do it quickly but with a rubber mallet. I hate it when I have to do it. Sorry you are in this position but it is better for the fish in the long run.

 

[LostBear]

Read the article in my link! It covers ice water.......

I've read it, and now wish I hadn't . . . I'm now just praying that all of my fish die gently in their sleep of old age, andI NEVER have to despatch one to the "rainbow tank".

 

[ptk207]

So here's an update:
Yesterday morning he wasn't hanging by the filter outflow but trying to go back to socializing with the rest of the school of black neons, but he was still swimming awkardly, nose up at a diagonal position. No one picked on him even the Angelfish. I had hopes for him until later that night when I came back home and saw him laying down by a plant in the back of the tank. So I took him out and quarantined him in a second container and I felt so bad I decided on euthanasia when I could get my hands on clove oil. I just now humanely euthanized him with the clove oil method today. Poor thing is now at peace.

Thank you guys for all the input and ideas. Upon observation, now that I could see his belly, I see signs of internal bleeding near the underbelly area. I'm wondering if he just got accidentally injured during the commotion of the water change. I feel so bad in retrospect but at least he's not suffering anymore.

For future reference, if I were to get methylene blue and aquarium salt just to have on hand. What are the appropriate uses of methylene blue and aquarium salt as far as treatment? Is methylene blue easily accessible at a pet store or LFS?

 

[Byron]

So here's an update:
Yesterday morning he wasn't hanging by the filter outflow but trying to go back to socializing with the rest of the school of black neons, but he was still swimming awkardly, nose up at a diagonal position. No one picked on him even the Angelfish. I had hopes for him until later that night when I came back home and saw him laying down by a plant in the back of the tank. So I took him out and quarantined him in a second container and I felt so bad I decided on euthanasia when I could get my hands on clove oil. I just now humanely euthanized him with the clove oil method today. Poor thing is now at peace.

Thank you guys for all the input and ideas. Upon observation, now that I could see his belly, I see signs of internal bleeding near the underbelly area. I'm wondering if he just got accidentally injured during the commotion of the water change. I feel so bad in retrospect but at least he's not suffering anymore.

For future reference, if I were to get methylene blue and aquarium salt just to have on hand. What are the appropriate uses of methylene blue and aquarium salt as far as treatment? Is methylene blue easily accessible at a pet store or LFS?

I have been fortunate that over 30 years I have not had much in the way of problems. I only use methylene blue to dab full strenth on fungus. I would not put it in the water, but then I probably have never had a disease requiring it. Salt, as in aquarium salt, is useful for some external parasitic issues (ich, velvet). If you do get it, keep it well sealed and in a dry area. The only time I used salt was a particularly stubborn infection of ich. Heat alone usually does it, but if more is necessary salt is far safer than any of the chemical concoctions.

 

[Colin_T]

I wouldn't bother getting Methylene Blue, you hardly ever use it.

Salt is useful and can be used to treat minor bacterial and fungal infections, as well as a number of external protozoan infections (Costia, Chilodonella & Trichodina).

As Byron mentioned, keep the salt in a dry area because it collects moisture from the air, and whilst this doesn't change it, the salt can form big solid clumps that need to be broken up before you can measure it out.

------------
If you get any new fish, try to quarantine them for a month before adding them to your display tank. This will prevent most diseases from getting into the other tank and affecting the healthy fish you already have.

 

[ptk207]

If it ever gets to that point of using aquarium salt, which I hope won't ever happen, will it be safe for my albino corys? What would be the proper dosing for my 20 gallon tank, if the salt were to be added during water changes using one 5 gallon bucket?

And since heat was mentioned, what would be the highest acceptable temperature considering I have a tank of angelfish, black neons, red serpaes, and albino corys? And for how long? Does heat also help control other types of infections besides ich?