No no, dont change anything with your filter, and keep it on at all times except water changes, and then make sure it is off for the shortest amount of time possible. Do NOT clean your filter out unless it is so dirty it is making the filter not work properly. You should try not to clean the filter until your tank is cycled. If you do need to clean your filter, clean it out in used tank water, as Chlorine in tap water will kill the bacteria and ruin your cycle. Make sure you have a filter sponge in your filter - you probably will. This is what the good bacteria will grow on.
Okay I'm going to give you a very basic overview of what cycling is, then I will give you a link to a thread that has lots of links to other threads about all kind of beginner issues, and lots about cycling. It is very important that you learn all you can about cycling. It is really complicated but I'm going to try and keep it simple.
Okay, fish and fish poo and the food your fish doesnt eat - these all make Ammonia. This Ammonia is poisonous and even in very small amounts (0.25 parts per million) it burns fish's gills, and makes it hard for them to breathe. In large amounts it kills fish.
When a tank is cycled it means that there are good bacteria in the filter that change this Ammonia into Nitrite, which is also poisonous, and then turns the nitrite into nitrate, which isnt very poisonous. Remember the difference between those two - nitrIte and nitrAte.
Ammonia --> Nitrite --> Nitrate
This is called the Nitrogen Cycle. The bacteria mainly grow in the filter, but some will grow on the gravel too. When a tank is Cycled, it means that all the Ammonia that the fish makes is being eaten by the bacteria, turned into Nitrite and then Nitrate, and so the water is safe.
Nitrite is poisonous like Ammonia, if you can detect ANY ammount, even a tiny bit in the water, you need to do a water change. Nitrate is not as poisonous, and once a week water changes will keep it down. You dont need to really worry until it goes over 100ppm (parts per million)
You are doing fish-in-cycling. This means that your fish is creating the Ammonia for the bacteria to eat. There is also fishless-cycling, which is where you add store-bought ammonia to the tank for the bacteria to eat and grow. You can't do this option unless you return your fish to the shop.
The first thing you need to do is do a water change, as much as you can, at least 50%. You need to do a big water change like this every day until your tank is cycled. Unfortunately, the smaller the tank, the quicker the Ammonia builds up. If you get that bigger tank you showed me, your betta will have a bigger chance of surviving, and you should be able to get away with water changes every 2 days. In the tank you have now, you might have to do a 50% water change twice a day. I wouldnt do a 100% water change unless you have to, as it will stress your betta out to have to be taken out of his tank.
Okay so how do you know if there is Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate in the tank? They are invisible and you cant smell them either. You need to buy test kits. You need one for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. Sometimes they are sold in a 'Master Test Kit' which should have those three, plus ones for PH, water hardness, etc. Check the label. It is best to get liquid tests, as they are more accurate and also cheaper in the long run per test. But if you cant get them, test strips will be okay.
You should also buy a gravel vaccum, yes you can leave your betta in whilst you do it. Do it once a week but only do half the gravel at a time, as the bacteria grow in the gravel. The dirt left in the gravel will make more Ammonia, which is why it is important that you get it out.
Here is the link to the thread with links on:
http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/277264-beginners-resource-center/
Okay, I realise that this is really really confusing. So here is a to-do list:
1. Do a water change now - a big one. You might want to do a 100% water change to get rid of all the Ammonia, put your betta in a cup whilst you tip all the water away. Stir up the gravel with your hand or use a gravel vac to get all the muck out of the gravel. Don't worry, there is not enough bacteria in the actual water to make much difference.
2. Make sure the water you put back in the tank is the right temperature, and is declorinated BEFORE it goes back into the tank. Chlorine will kill the bacteria and the wrong temperature will stress your fish. Make sure there is as much water in the tank as it is meant to hold (as long as it has a lid, bettas can jump out if it doesnt), more water means the Ammonia will be diluted more and therefore take longer to build up. Put your fish back in the tank.
3. Turn the temperature on the heater up to 28 degrees if you can. Bacteria grow faster at higher temperatures. An airstone will also help.
4. Change at least 50% of the water a day, you don't need to take your fish out for this. You can use a gravel vac to do this if you want, just make sure to keep the vac in one place or above the gravel, so you dont suck as much gravel up.
5. You need to test the water for Ammonia and Nitrite twice a day. If you detect ANY amount of either, do another water change.
6. Only feed your betta every other day. Don't worry he'll be okay. Less food is better for him than more poison in the water! When you feed him make sure he eats it all. If he doesnt, scoop it out of the water.
7. Be patient! Most cycles take about a month. Bettas are very tough, and usually survive cycling.
Feel free to ask me anything
And honestly it will be much better if you can get the bigger tank, it will be easier for you, less build-up of Ammonia for your fish, and you can get tank mates at some point. Don't worry about having to start your cycle again for the new tank, you can just put your old filter sponge into your new filter and it will be the same.
Oh and you shouldn't get new tank mates until your cycle is done, as more fish mean more ammonia, which will need more bacteria that you won't have yet!
