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Betta Photography [emoji328]

Barry Grayson

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I find myself trying to capture the beautiful movement, display of fins, color and texture of my betta with a camera. Has any thing been written specifically about “Betta Photography” including how to light and compose the subject? Having spent some time playing with my iPhone camera and a pocket light to augment the tank LED’S the results can be quite interesting. Some of the completely non-traditional images can be more interesting then the usual full side view display.
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Perhaps we can learn from one another, how best to document and immortalize in photography, these spectacular little creatures.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Light, light, light and more light. That's what you need if you want good photographs.

Cameras need light and the more light the better the picture. When photographing fish you want to wipe the glass down and do a big water change and gravel clean the day before. Wipe the outside of the glass down too to get rid of water drops that glow when a flash hits them.

Open the curtains if it's day time, turn the room light on, make sure the aquarium light is on and use a flash on the camera to get best results.

On some cameras the flash will automatically reduce the shutter speed and this can make it difficult to get a clear picture. Realistically you want a reasonable shutter speed of 1/100 or more to get a picture that isn't blurry.

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If possible, set the aperture (F number) as high as possible so you get more depth in the picture that is in focus. This will make sure all parts of the fish are in focus. I like using F-12 and above. Anything less than F-10 and there is a good chance the fish will not be in focus.

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Have the shutter speed on at least 1/100, but preferably 1/200 or 1/250. This will capture the fish and you won't get blurry images from the fish moving or from the camera shaking when you press the button.

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Set the ISO to the lowest number possible for the cleanest image with the least amount of grain/ pixilation. The ISO usually starts at 64 and goes up to 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200.

The higher numbers allow the camera to capture images in low light areas but the image gets more pixilated with the higher number. Generally you don't go over 200 ISO for most pictures taken during the day, and fashion models get photographed with 64 ISO. However, the lower ISO number, the more light you need to get a clear picture.

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When you photograph the fish, have the camera on a slight angle to the aquarium and preferably have it just above the fish and facing slightly down. Having the camera on an angle will prevent the flash bouncing straight back onto the lens and causing a big white patch on the image.

Photographing the fish from the front towards the back (head towards tail) will put the light on the fish and give the best colours due to the way the scales reflect light.

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It's all about balance with the camera. The more light you have, the easier it is for the camera film or censors to pick up and record the image, and the better it will be. Fast shutter speeds help and a high aperture number will increase the area that is in focus. And a low ISO number will help keep fine details sharp.

Then takes lots and lots of pictures, look at them on your computer and delete them all before taking more. :)
 
Colin_T... great reply to my question ! I will store that note offline and refer to it frequently. I would love to see you post some examples of what you consider to be your best images. Perhaps with some comments about the camera settings and what you consider to be the strengths of each image.
For me, photographing my Betta is just another way to interact with him, to enjoy the hobby and to document and share with my friends the beauty and attraction of these fish.
Again, thanks for your thoughtful advice.
Barry


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
if your fish wont stay still , there's a feature called live photo's and you can make a still image in edit from the live photo I have found that almost always there is at least one of the frames that have a better image then all the others , I use a windows phone though not sure if iPhone has the same feature. " windows phones eat android an apple ' I hear Samsung are making new windows phones soon' "....
 
I use a Nikon coolpix B 500 camera and set it to easy mode. It handles everything.

Photos are of my fish.

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if your fish wont stay still , there's a feature called live photo's and you can make a still image in edit from the live photo I have found that almost always there is at least one of the frames that have a better image then all the others , I use a windows phone though not sure if iPhone has the same feature. " windows phones eat android an apple ' I hear Samsung are making new windows phones soon' "....

IPhone’s have Live Photo as an option. We can also rest a finger on the activation button and get multiple images per second for as long as you depress the trigger. This is another way to select the perfect shot


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I should point out that most digital cameras freak out when they see dark or light colours (mainly black or white). And if you have dark and light contrasting colours they can have issues too.

If you are photographing white or bright yellow objects, try to have them in a shaded area (out of direct sunlight), and in front of a neutral coloured background (blue or green), and use a flash. Photographing white or yellow objects in full sunlight can create some interesting pictures.

If you have a white object in front of a light coloured background, the camera will have trouble picking up the subject. And the same with dark coloured objects on dark backgrounds.

And to make it more confusing they can have problems with very light coloured objects against very dark backgrounds because the camera sensors don't know which part to focus on. Photographing in a shaded area helps overcome this as does using a flash.

If you want to freak out a digital camera, put a black and white striped or checkered pattern in front of it. And photograph it outside in the sunlight :)
 
is an iPhone anything like an aphone, bphone, cphone or ephone?

damn this modern terminology, where are the smoke signals?
 
That course is quite good, I had no idea my Iphone camera could do all that stuff.

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Nick's latest photo, the plants behind the fish are in focus but the fish isn't. A camera with a manual focussing lens would allow you to focus on the fish. Alternatively, increasing the F number will increase the depth of field and put the fish and plants in focus. :)
 
I didn't want the fish in focus. How about uploading some of your stuff? A picture is worth a thousand words.
 

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