Betta male look

[Tyler777]

This is from my wife : her betta boy lost his bright color n his dorsal fins look messed up.
He lives in a 20 gallons tank with 3 baby albino corys.
So no other fish attacked him or harrases him.
I did a water change last Saturday morning bout 25% .
He swims around but not as much n he still ears but he looks weird not as playful as he used to.

Also her Betta girls keep dying for some reason 3 died in the last 2 days we have 2 left one is looking like she won't b alive in the morning n the other looks fine. So far.
The gouramies are gone into another tank so it's just the girls n corys.
I'm starting to think that tank is cursed

 

[Colin_T]

How long has the tank been set up for?
What other fish are in the tank with the male Betta?
Has anything been added to the tank in the 2 weeks before the female Bettas died?

How long have she and you had the fish for?

What is the ammonia, nitrite & nitrate of the water?
What sort of filter is on the tank?
How often and how do you and her clean the filter?

How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?
Do you gravel clean the substrate when you do a water change?
Do you dechlorinate the new water before adding it to the aquarium?
Do you have separate buckets that are used specifically for the fish tank?

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Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens so any medication (if needed) will work more effectively on the fish.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Post clear pictures of the remaining Bettas so we can check them for diseases. If she has pictures of the dead Bettas it might show something too.

 

[Tyler777]

How long has the tank been set up for?

Betta boy tank , almost 2 months

What other fish are in the tank with the male Betta?

Albino corys (3)

Has anything been added to the tank in the 2 weeks before the female Bettas died?

No, I took the 2 red flame gouramies n put em in a different tank. Before that gouramies and bettas females got along great never bullying or fighting

How long have she and you had the fish for?

female bettas hard to say the last 5 that just died some a month some longer. Betta boy has been with us for almost 5 months

What is the ammonia, nitrite & nitrate of the water?

No ammonia, no nitrite no nitrate

What sort of filter is on the tank?

if you mean what kind ? Its a HOB

How often and how do you and her clean the filter?

Every 3 werks I would say

How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?

every other week . Between 25 to 50 %

Do you gravel clean the substrate when you do a water change?

every other week

Do you dechlorinate the new water before adding it to the aquarium?

No i always add the water confitioner right away after the las drop of tap water filled the tank

Do you have separate buckets that are used specifically for the fish tank?

I always use the same bucket

---------------------

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

ok

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens so any medication (if needed) will work more effectively on the fish.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Post clear pictures of the remaining Bettas so we can check them for diseases. If she has pictures of the dead Bettas it might show something too.

 

[Deleted member 155700]

Do you check your PH before a water change? Is it the same as your tap water? Does it vary much? When I had fish die, I suspected PH swings post WC. Do you temperature match the new water before adding? Concur with conditioning the new water first.

 

[Tyler777]

Do you check your PH before a water change? Is it the same as your tap water? Does it vary much? When I had fish die, I suspected PH swings post WC. Do you temperature match the new water before adding? Concur with conditioning the new water first.

 

[Tyler777]

No I never check the ph bfore wawr change I just add the tapwater n pour the water conditioner.
One guy from petsmart once tested my water n said we had the best water he ever seen. Well I don't think so I tasted the tap water as a request from someone from here n even whennit wasn't the best tap water still had some ammonia n nitrates in it. When I do a water change I always mix hot and cold water to make it warm instead of just room temperature water.

 

[Essjay]

Water conditioner should not be added after new water. Chlorine and chloramine irritate fish's skin and gills.
Refilling with buckets - add water conditioner to each bucketful at the dose rate for each bucket.
Refill with hose - add the water conditioner first, then the new water.


However, this only applies if there's chlorine or chloramine in the water which is only added if tap water is mains water. If it's well water, that won't have chlorine or chloramine.

 

[Tyler777]

Water conditioner should not be added after new water. Chlorine and chloramine irritate fish's skin and gills.
Refilling with buckets - add water conditioner to each bucketful at the dose rate for each bucket.
Refill with hose - add the water conditioner first, then the new water.


However, this only applies if there's chlorine or chloramine in the water which is only added if tap water is mains water. If it's well water, that won't have chlorine or chloramine.

Ok, thanks for the tip

 

[MuddyWaters]

I condition the water of my shrimp tank and check the GH before adding. I don't check PH in that one at all. In my community tank, I keep the PH at 6.8 with a controller and CO2, but I add conditioner to raise KH and a bit of GH prior to adding the water. This is because my water is very soft and if I don't raise the KH, the CO2 will never come on - I use a chart I found on Tom Barr's website to compare the KH & the PH to arrive at the right CO2 level.

Doing this causes the PH to rise from 6.8 to as much as high 7s to 8 right after changing the water, but the CO2 comes on and fixes it within an hour or 2. I've never had adverse effects from this and I do it on 2 tanks.

NOTE: The more dramatic swing is in my 29 gallon tank- the 75 gallon will go from 6.8 to 7.5 maybe, but the other one can go higher temporarily.

 

[Tyler777]

I condition the water of my shrimp tank and check the GH before adding. I don't check PH in that one at all. In my community tank, I keep the PH at 6.8 with a controller and CO2, but I add conditioner to raise KH and a bit of GH prior to adding the water. This is because my water is very soft and if I don't raise the KH, the CO2 will never come on - I use a chart I found on Tom Barr's website to compare the KH & the PH to arrive at the right CO2 level.

Doing this causes the PH to rise from 6.8 to as much as high 7s to 8 right after changing the water, but the CO2 comes on and fixes it within an hour or 2. I've never had adverse effects from this and I do it on 2 tanks.

NOTE: The more dramatic swing is in my 29 gallon tank- the 75 gallon will go from 6.8 to 7.5 maybe, but the other one can go higher temporarily.

Thank you for your sharing.

 

[Tyler777]

Yesterday I tested the water in my betta boy tank and the level of ammonia and niyrites were sky high and I never had nitrites in his tank n when I had ammonia it was almost nothing.
I did a 70% water change today I just tested the water again and I got the same readings as the picture shows. I dunno what the hevk is going on with his water it never was this way.
And the weird thing is that him and the corys are swiming n eating like a normal day like nothing happens. Any idea or advice ?

 

[MaloK]

Man I swear the following is not because I have any ******** for it.

But you have to chill down, I don't know how many tanks you have atm and how many fish you killed last month.

Your answers are nebulous and nobody here is having a slight pulse on what is going on. That is why the most competent are not even daring.

As the one that happily is on bat all the time... But since concrete facts are my sole motivations.

1: asses the situation:

What is exactly going out of wack. I divide that in quite two separate categories. One is is hardness (gh/kh/ph) the other is nitrogen (n2,nh3,NO,NO2,HN03)

They all need very different kind of intervention at some point.

But The kind of speech you have at the moment is probably why I switched to RO...

 

[Tyler777]

Man I swear the following is not because I have any ******** for it.

But you have to chill down, I don't know how many tanks you have atm and how many fish you killed last month.

Your answers are nebulous and nobody here is having a slight pulse on what is going on. That is why the most competent are not even daring.

As the one that happily is on bat all the time... But since concrete facts are my sole motivations.

1: asses the situation:

What is exactly going out of wack. I divide that in quite two separate categories. One is is hardness (gh/kh/ph) the other is nitrogen (n2,nh3,NO,NO2,HN03)

They all need very different kind of intervention at some point.dunno what r u talking bout.

But The kind of speech you have at the moment is probably why I switched to RO...

Honestly i dont know what ur talking bout. What speach r u talking bout ? I just said that im comfused bout why the water went crazy with ammonia n nitrites i even posted a picture with the results. But even when the water looks bad theyre all eating n swiming normally. Thats what i dont understand .why they behave that way n why the water went so crazy from not having nitrites at all to have a lot of it n from having a tiny bit of ammonia to have a lot of it