Beanz8 Fishless Cycling Log

[beanz8]

looks like my Nitrite is starting to spike

 

[beanz8]

Or not lol Nitrite down to 0 from 1 . When do I start testing every 12 hours?

 

[KittyKat]

Once ammonia and nitrite hit 0 ppm in 24 hours, you can start testing at 12 hour intervals.

 

[beanz8]

should I add more ammonia tonight even thought its not 0 because I don't want the bacteria to go too long without something to feed off. Also should I consider a partial water change? If so how much?

 

[KittyKat]

I would do a water change with temperature matched and dechlorianted water.

How are you maintaining your pH?

 

[beanz8]

Havent done anything to the pH. How much of a water change should i do?

 

[KittyKat]

Well, given that the aim is to get stuff out of the water, very large ones would be most effective. Maybe 95% once off would work well: wait till ammonia and nitrite hit 0 ppm, do the water change and then redose as normal.

 

[beanz8]

Thank you for mentioning pH - i tested it and it was down to 60-6.2 (eeek) so have just done a 90% water change and re filled (temp 27'c and dechlorinated), just waiting for the sand to settle back down and i will re dose with ammonia again,

 

[waterdrop]

Yes, you did the right thing - I agree with KK. There is no "meaning" to doing only partial water changes during fishless cycling as the "partial" part is all about the fish! During a fishless cycle one might as well just siphon all the way down to the substrate (unless one wants to keep a cannister filter running or not have sand get sucked out or something like that.) Very large or total water changes get you the most bang for your buck (sorry, US term there probably) as you get the most nitric acid removed and the most calcium replenished and get your bacteria off and reproducing again.

You look to be in the later stages when you begin to get some of the bouncing effect (where it will tease you with double-zeros but then go back to not doing that.) If you've got the time and energy then big weekend water changes will often be more effective in these late stages. Have you added in 12-hour testing yet or are all these still happening at the 24-hour mark?

~~waterdrop~~

 

[KittyKat]

Thank you for mentioning pH - i tested it and it was down to 60-6.2 (eeek) so have just done a 90% water change and re filled (temp 27'c and dechlorinated), just waiting for the sand to settle back down and i will re dose with ammonia again,

I did wonder why it wasn't progressing.. the pH probably crashed at some point and stalled it. I would recommend regular water changes, as waterdrop mentioned, to prevent it crashing again.

 

[beanz8]

Yes thank-you I will defiantly be keeping an eye on the ph and doing regular water changes from now on, who knew there was so much to learn even before the fish part.

Waterdrop I am still only testing every 24 house atm, but hopefully now it will stop teasing me with the bouncing and yet there....

 

[beanz8]

Why does my pH seem to be dropping again so soon?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Your water's buffering capacity is probably very low. Add a little baking soda. It will raise both the pH and the buffering capacity of the water. (It will cost less time and effort than continually doing water changes when the pH drops to 6.0 and stalls the cycle.) A big water change at the end will remove the baking soda before the fish are added.

 

[beanz8]

ok thanks I will get some tomo! Thanks

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Just generic cooking quality baking SODA, not power. Sodium bicarbonate is the stuff you want. Not the powder with added corn starch, etc.