Baby Cories Dead !

[augustaranger]

Bought my first 4 albino cories. They laid eggs 4 days later. Got about 30 eggs out of the tank and put them in a jar of water in a dark place. Four days later I had about 20 wigglers. Put them in an unheated 1g tank with an airstone. The water temp was about 71 degrees. I removed the eggs with fungus. Did not immediately feed them. Waited a couple of days and gave them a drop of liquifry. I started to giving them tiny amounts of liquifry and began PWCs. Only have 1 still alive. What did I do wrong?

 

[drewry]

hi augustaranger

cory wriglers arnet easy to raise it could of been a number of things.
from differant temp in the water changes ,pluss the container there in needs to be keept clean as food spoils fast, even to mutch water movement from the airstone , i place mine at the top as not to chuck them about because there really fradgile. or even not getting enuff nutritious food i give my wriglers a number of differant foods from
newly hatched BBS ,FIRST BITES ,LIQUIFRY,it could be a number of things .
im still new to breeding corydoras out of 127 bronze wriglers i have about 80 left, at 2 and a half weeks old now and there doing great ,
but i had a second batch hatch of about 250 and im down to about 10 now that have survived, at about a week old now,
and i did nothing differant to the first batch

 

[Inchworm]

Hi augustaranger

It's heartbreaking to loose a lot of fry in a short time. They are very delicate and there are so many things that can go wrong. There's often no easy answer to why they fail. Believe me, it still happens to me too.

There are a various things you can try the next time your corys spawn. You could experiment with using a thin layer of sand on the bottom or using a bare bottomed tank. Some people squeeze filer gook into the tank and let it settle to the bottom. The fry will hide in it and eat microorganisms they find there, at least for the first days of their lives.

If you use a bare bottomed tank, be sure to wipe it down, especially the bottom, every day to avoid getting a build up of uneaten food and harmful bacteria.

You might try with a little warmer temperature. Perhaps if fluctuates more than you think, especially at night.

Take care not to batter them about too much, either when doing water changes, or from the airstone.

LiquiFry is good for them at the beginning, but can quickly pollute the water if you miss a water change or two. I've found that while you can successfully use a small tank for a time (and there are successful breeders who do) a 5 or ten gallon is easier to maintain.

Above all, don't get discouraged. It might take several attempts before you succeed, but your corys are going to try again and probably soon. Feed them lots of either live blackworms or frozen bloodworms to get them ready. These foods will make them strong and healthy and aid them to develop lots of eggs.

From what you've written, it sounds like you've done good research and I'm looking forward to reading about your future success with them.

 

[Tolak]

All the local cory breeders near me keep snails in the fry tanks as well, and have told me you can't raise cory fry without a few snails to keep the bacterial film from affecting the fry. I hate snails, but do breed green aeneus corys just to keep my angel tanks clean. Apparently the worste offender around here is velvet, I've found that after they are old enough to eat bbs, copper sufate pentahydrate at half the normal dose keeps velvet away with no need for snails.

 

[drewry]

[quote name=' date='Nov 17 2007, 06:45 AM' post='1823935']
All the local cory breeders near me keep snails in the fry tanks as well, and have told me you can't raise cory fry without a few snails to keep the bacterial film from affecting the fry. I hate snails, but do breed green aeneus corys just to keep my angel tanks clean. Apparently the worste offender around here is velvet, I've found that after they are old enough to eat bbs, copper sufate pentahydrate at half the normal dose keeps velvet away with no need for snails.
[/
hi Tolak'


iv never had a prob with velvet ,toutch wood .
i have heared that snails can help,
i did post a topic on snails wondering if i should add some to my cory fry tank .
but iv raised 80 bronze wriglers 3 weeks old now without meds or snails .
i think without snails if you havent got allot of time on ure hands with maintanines can be a problem as food spoils fast and young corys are prone to anything untill the build there amune system up

 

[Inchworm]

I keep a few red ramshorns in my fry (and other tanks) because I like them. It's important to keep the bottom of a cory fry tank clean in order to keep the fry healthy. While a few snails might help, but they, in turn, produce waste that adds to the film that forms at the bottom. The best way to keep a bare bottom cory fry tank clean is to rub it with your hand to loosen the film and then do generous water changes.

Velvet is a highly contagious parasitic disease that does not normally bother corys, but perhaps it would if it is introduced by the cichlids. IMHO, harsh chemicals and cory fry are not a good combination. If they have velvet, perhaps it's best to let them go to stop the infestation.

_____

Hi augustaranger

How are your breeding corys? Have you seen any sign that they will give you more eggs soon?

 

[augustaranger]

Thanks for the great replies. Sadly, none of the fry survived. No new eggs either.

I keep a extra sponge filter running in a populated tank. Should I place it in the fry tank next time, or just use an airstone with no filter?

 

[Tolak]

You have to remember, I breed corys on the side, I mainly breed angels. If I pull eggs they get the same treatment as an angel spawn to start. I put cory eggs in an old tupperware bowl with some meth blue, Maroxy, and acriflavin to hatch. Once they are swimming they go in a 2.5 gallon with a cycled sponge filter, and get fed bbs. They get the same level of maintenance as angel fry, wipe the bottom daily with a paper towel, siphon off any uneaten bbs with a piece of air line, and a 50% water change. A bag clip, the type used for closing open bags of chips, works great for holding a folded paper towel when dealing with a small tank and owning large hands.

The copper is a preventative, and pretty much an old school trick, it works but only if you have harder water. Copper, IMO, is the same as bleach, in that when used correctly it is a valuable hatchery consumable, but when used incorrectly it can cause a lot of problems. That is the reason for 1/2 dose, or one drop per 2.5, once they are swimming. I've heard of folks using it when hatching spawns, among other chemicals and chemical mixes. What it boils down to is a bit of experimentation on your part, to find out what works best in your setup with your water conditions.

 

[augustaranger]

Do you put an airstone in the tupperware bowl? Are frozen BBS Ok for newly hatched fry?

 

[Tolak]

Yes, they do get an airstone. I've never tried frozen bbs with newly swimming corys, it works for angels that are 2-3 weeks old in a pinch, I don't see why it wouldn't work for older corys. It doesn't work well for newly swimming angels, but corys aren't angels.

 

[ICEEGRL]

You can also get decapsulated eggs if you don't want to hatch the shrimp. I have heard that they work very well... I am going to try that when I start back trying breed mine.
Right now I am not even collecting the eggs. I don't have the time for the maintenance and stuff at the moment. I will probably start again in a month or 2 though.

Good luck.