At my wits end with my water chemistry...... Hoping to get a sanity check

I appreciate all the information. This is the most straightforward info I've gotten yet. I'm going to go for the RO system you showed me. I'll T into my sink and run it from there. Put a ball valve on the end of the line and run a slow trickle to fill the tank directly. I have a 300w heater and by my simple minded logic, I should be able to dump the slow output right there and heater will address the cooler water output quickly without shifting the temp of the overall tank down too much (if that makes sense).

From there use a GH booster and root tabs for plants.

Correct me if my thinking is off. I think a direct fill will be pretty efficient and not have to figure out a way to fill a bunch of large buckets or bins.

I was lucky to find a plexiglass 40 g that had housed some plecos. They had destroyed the inside finish making it appear clouding and it was given to me.

I bought a five stage RO unit and found a float valve from Home Depot. After installing a sump pump with an RV type hose, an air stone and a heater, I was able to keep many Discus raising tanks going. Whatever was used one day was refilled within 24 hours.

I used RO Rite to add back the required chemistry. For planted tanks, I mixed RO with my 8.0 PH tap water 50/50 and had a CO2 controller.
 
Water softeners work by replacing calcium and magnesium with sodium bicarbonate. Sodium bicarbonate will push the PH up. More plants will push the PH up even more because plants consume the carbonate resulting in Soodium hydroxide which pushes the ph up even more. Additionally most steams and lakes always have some sodium and som potassium. Water with just or sodium or mostly sodium is bad for fish health.

100 gallon per day RO system

This is the fastest and fastest RO system I know of. For your 75gallon you might want to consider the 50 gallon per day version. Us a commercial GH booster or make your own. with calcium gluconate or magnesiumgluconate. Natural was also always has calcium and magnesium which fish and plants need. (two talbspoon of calcium gluconate and 1 of magnesium gluconate and and mix in a container add only enough to your tank to reach one degree. Unless you have fish that need harder water. Ca Mg gulconate may resolve slowly but most should be dissolved within 30 minutes to an hour or less. Many commercial GH boosters have a too much CL or sulfur which may make the water a little acidic. Gluocnates don't do that.

Also put a sea shell or crushed coral in the the filter. This will keep your water very close to 7 if too much Cl or sulfur gets into the tank. Amazon sells calcium gluconate and magnesium gluconate. You will need to use a fertilizer if you have plants. in the tank. So a water change once a week.
I just ordered the 100gpd unit. I’ll run it into a trash can with a spare heater I have. Only thing I need to look for is a power head to pump it out to the tank.

EDIT: Ordered a 13 dollar submersible pump from Amazon as well.

Also, it is ok to not always have water running through an RO, correct? I'm going to tie it into the faucet or hose line only when I need it. Since it would only sit 2 weeks at most, I'd assume run it into the sink a while before getting water I plan to use for the aquarium
 
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I just ordered the 100gpd unit. I’ll run it into a trash can with a spare heater I have. Only thing I need to look for is a power head to pump it out to the tank.

EDIT: Ordered a 13 dollar submersible pump from Amazon as well.

Also, it is ok to not always have water running through an RO, correct? I'm going to tie it into the faucet or hose line only when I need it. Since it would only sit 2 weeks at most, I'd assume run it into the sink a while before getting water I plan to use for the aquarium
This one has worked well for me...
 
I'm trying to figure out how your water is becoming so much harder and more alkaline in your tank. What sorts of substrate and decorations do you have? What kind of filter media are you using? For your hardness and pH to increase that much that fast, something is wrong.

Im sorry I missed this. I'm assuming my water softener is the culprit, adding the sodium into the water. I took a sample from the tap and let it sit a day. Following day the PH was 8.8 or higher since the API kit stops there. My substrate is Seachem Flourite. I have multiple fake plants, fake rocks and a pirate ship. I have 4 real plants (can't remember the type). The media is all Fluval's brand. It is the standard blue and white sponge filters, also with the white filter floss, biomax, carbon and phosphate pads. pretty much what came factory. I took 2 of the 4 carbon sacks out and replaced with more biomax.
 
Returning what I got and going with the pump you posted. The one I got looks like it’s an air pump.
The one you posted is a power head that could be used, with an airline, to add bubbles to the outflow. That is not really needed. You are better off with the pump I posted as it sits at the very bottom of your container and allows for all but 1/8" to be pumped out. Just be careful that your heater is not covered and the glass may break...don't as me how I know :oops::oops::eek::eek:
 
The one you posted is a power head that could be used, with an airline, to add bubbles to the outflow. That is not really needed. You are better off with the pump I posted as it sits at the very bottom of your container and allows for all but 1/8" to be pumped out. Just be careful that your heater is not covered and the glass may break...don't as me how I know :oops::oops::eek::eek:
I’ll definitely be aware of that. Make sure I unplug the heater. I brew beer as well and always have to make sure the heating element is off before I pull wort out of the kettle. Hear too many stories of scorched elements. Similar with an uncovered heater.
 
I live in Maryland too, and I have a well drawing off the Magothy aquifer. That water is very acidic when it comes into the house. We have a water conditioner system in the basement that mixes a weak sodium hydrochloride solution into the water to get it neutral. Curiously, I've discovered that taking a pH reading on the treated water coming right out of the system always yields a lower pH than that coming out of the faucets upstairs, so I have to adjust for that. I don't know why it happens; maybe deposits in the pipes leach acids into it on the way.
My aquarium water, also, tends to acidify constantly. I have a couple large Anubias that I blame for that, plus a bad habit of overfeeding. I keep a dropper bottle of the NaOH solution next to the tank for frequent adjustment. The minerals in the water buffer it so well that it's tough to raise the pH, so I collect rain water in a kiddie-pool and mix that into the aquarium. It makes the water more responsive to the NaOH treatment. But the rain water is also surprisingly acidic, going by my little test kit, so I have to neutralize that before I add it.
Water is complicated stuff.
 
So I got all of the gear to start using ro. Question is how much water should I change at a time to slowly acclimate the fish to the newer parameters? 10 gallons? 5 gallons? Tank is 75 gallon. I’ve got another fish now with Popeye so treating him and hoping to not lose another fish in a week. It’s another one of the shiners. If he goes it’s the third one.

Also tested my water before our softener. It was 17 so 300ppm. PH prior to softener just over 7. I’m leaving the test sample in the cup overnight and going to see if it raises out of curiosity. Still going Ro so I can control the parameters and stay consistent.
 
When I switched to RO I changed 20% every day for a week and then went all in - 75-80% weekly.
Not sure if you get the brand in the US but I saw your earlier posts on fast RO units. I have this one. I chose the dental version because the home unit attempts to re-mineralise the water but I believe the output is not stable over time, and I keep soft water fish so don't need the minerals. Once the DI resin (not needed) was exhaused I just put in a second carbon filter. The 400GPD version gives me 25 litres of water in around half an hour.
 
When I switched to RO I changed 20% every day for a week and then went all in - 75-80% weekly.
Not sure if you get the brand in the US but I saw your earlier posts on fast RO units. I have this one. I chose the dental version because the home unit attempts to re-mineralise the water but I believe the output is not stable over time, and I keep soft water fish so don't need the minerals. Once the DI resin (not needed) was exhaused I just put in a second carbon filter. The 400GPD version gives me 25 litres of water in around half an hour.

Thanks. I ended up picking up the unit from Amazon that was posted earlier. I'm just going to make a resevoir system out of a trash can. So basically I can add x gallons, treat it with Equilibrium, alkaline and acid buffer to get the profile i need. Over time and changes it should dilute to a good profile. I know the recent swing I got was really bad. Lost a shiner and Molley last week. Have a second Shiner in quaranteen that developed Popeye as of yesterday. Treating with Epsom Salt and Antibiotics. Water has been such an issue.

Heck the water I pulled prior to my softener yesterday is yellow and cloudy this morning. Its pretty disgusting.
 
My water was very alkaline, High Ph, so I didn't want to do a huge amount, to stress the fish any more, than they already were ( I didn't lose any fish during the change over )... I did 5 gallons every other day... my tanks were all 45-55 gallons... it took 2 weeks to even see any difference on my water tests, because of the Ph curve... I'm so glad I did it though... 6 months later, & my waters are all 6.8 to 7.0 in the tanks ( my water after RO is 7.0 ).. I've not added anything to change the Ph, except the drift would that was already in the tanks, & a few Almond leaves, added after the change over... I am now adding Seachem fertilizers, that I didn't add before RO
 

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