Number one rule - never listen to the local fish store (LFS) most of the time they just want to sell to you and will give wrong advice, so please research all avenues before committing.
Don't generalize like this. There are many LFS and employees who want to present factual information on the care of bettas, enough that the above generalization isn't warranted. Don't reference this at all. It lowers the quality of your post with an emotional appeal.
Be warned! - They are a commitment and a pet and deserve to be treated as such. Also most catch "the Betta Bug" they are a bit like Pringles once you pop you can't stop, you may find your house littered with betta tanks before long!
While I completely agree that owning a betta involves commitment, I would not compare a betta to pringles. Collecting should be discouraged. Unless, you plan on line breeding, or keeping B. splenden's rarer wild cousins, one fish is plenty. Overtime, managing 10, 4g filtered systems will become extremely taxing and the fish care will suffer. Better to only have one that you can devote all your extra time to. This is just my opinion. Another opinion, rescuing should be discouraged too, but that part of another debate and I won't go into it.
(1) The tank - It is recommended especially on these forums to go with a minimum tank size of 3gallons (the general setups are 3 -5g). The main reason for this is it provides adequate space for the fish to live in. They are curious and intelligent fish and love to explore so the more space the better. They are tropical fish so require a heater to maintain warm temperatures, the larger the body of water the easier to maintain the temperature. Lastly all fish produce waste and you keep on top of this by removing the waste with water changes, the larger body of water the less likelihood if something goes wrong it will affect your fish as much as if it was in a very small cup. Ensure there is a lid to the tank as these fish are prone jumpers!
The minimum according to the TFF FAQ is 1g. I'm just pointing this out, as your information is conflicting. Just scroll down.
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=32461
Why not say instead...
"while 1g is considered the absolute minimum, 3-5g setups are more commonly found." Then you are in accordance with the FAQ and you do not cause unecessary confusion.
(3) Filter - There is debate about whether these are required or not. My personal opinon and factual opinon is Yes. A filter is there for many reasons, to agitate the water surface, to filtrate the tank and get rid of a lot of nasties. The filter needs to be fully cycled, the recommended method is to do so before a fish is even introduced or bought. Why cycle? Cycling ensures there is healthy bacteria in the tank that can convert fish waste produced into less harmful product and so is less harmful to the fish. There is a lot more science behind all this and so will noe provide links for your perusal.
I have problems with this statement. A personal opinion is just that, an opinion. Fact has absolutely nothing to do with opinion. Don't add pretend weight to your statement by using the word factual in conjunction with the word opinion, when what you're saying really isn't fact, but an opinion. you are creating an oxymoron. It may very well be a good opinion, but it is still an opinion. This is your recommendation based on your experience and the experience of others. But many here keep bettas very successfully without filtration. I am not saying one is better than the other, just watch your use of the word fact or factual, and offer both options in a sticky article without bias. That is the best way to treat this and then let the member decide what they want to do. This covering of all bases is what I encourage among the writers of stickys in Planted and it is a better, less confusing way of doing things.
Here is the Beginners resource centre, it has many links on setting a new tank up including good explanations of cycling and why to do it! Please read:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264</a>
Here is how to do what is known as a fishless cycle, it is safer, less harmful to the fish and quicker! :
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861</a>
Again, if you include the non-filtered betta method, you do complete water changes sometimes multiple times a week, so fishless cycling is not needed. Again, I'm not saying that you can't discuss fishless cycing, but you really just need to cover your bases.
(6)Thermometer -not a big thing. But this helps for you to regulate and ensure the temperature is maintained.
I think if you're going to opt for a heater, a thermometer is a must. How else are you going to know if your heater fails? By the time the fish shows discomfort, the temperature may already be too high.
Adding the betta
So! You have read all that have the tank set up, cycled and have some food ready to welcome the chosen one home. Off to the store and minutes later you have your betta in a bag with water and air (hopefully covered by an opaque bag) and you are looking at the tank to put him in. You now need to acclimate him.
(1) First of all float the bag in the tank unopened for approximately 15 minutes. This will help to get the water in the bag the same temperature as outside the bag
(2) Open the bag roll down the sides and allow to still float, have a clean cup (wash completely!) and add a little tank water to the bag very gently. You are now starting to acclimate him to the conditions in your tank so there are no shocking factors when you add him.
(3) Continue to add tank water in cupfuld over intervals of 10 minutes. Be cautious as the fish may be jumpy.
(4) This is now your decision, when you are comfortbale that the bag is acclimatised, you have one of two options, first you can tilt the bag and submerge to entice the fish out and voila he is in. Secondly you can net or cup him and place in the tank. Some don't want to add the store water to their tank incase of nasties present in the water (remember though the fish has been in this water) so will leave it up to you the method of choice.
This is only one of the many, many methods used for aclimation. Many with conflicting practices, yet with the same results. Make note of this please.
Flaring Exercise - One way to interact with your betta is to use a mirror a couple of times a week up to 5-10 minutes each time to get them to flare, it exercises them and gives you a chance to interact without feeding involved. Do not leave a mirror next to them as they will exhaust themselves to death to see "the other male" off.
So shoving a mirror in his face and driving him to a fury with a fish that isn't even there is a way to interact? You're not interacting with him, your making him angry and then watching it. I'm sorry, I never bought this. I don't mind that you put it there, many people like this, but I never got it.
I have heard you can divide a tank? - You can if it is big enough to begin with. This will give you the option to have two bettas in say a 10g, as they will not get along otherwise and you can then have two beautiful bettas. Ensure you get the right size for your tank, trimming as necessary. You will need the divide snug fitting and high enough that they will not jump into each others compartments and start fighting.
Shouldn't you guard against the transparancy of the divider? I mean won't this kind of be like the whole leaving a mirror infront of a betta and driving him insane with anger thing, except now you actually have a fish next to him that can become the object of his territoriality?
It is a good effort, and you certainly mean well, but there are some things, as I have pointed out above. The biggest thing is that most of this information is aready presented well in the FAQ.
llj