Starfishpower
Fish Crazy
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- Dec 30, 2007
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my question is sweet and simple, when building the actual aquarium itself can you use the aquarium grade silicon used to attach the glass panels to each other for securing a piece of acrylic as well? will aquarium grade silicon be adhesive to both acrylic and glass?
i went on garf's DIY tank builder site ( http/www.garf.org/tank/buildtank.asp ) and put in the desminsions of 60"l x 14"w x 15"h (55 gallon long) with glass as the medium of choice. it came back with nice little instructions which i undertand, but raises one important question for me if i were to attempt this while i have time off this summer (and hopefully money ). in the instructions, which i will copy and paste below this so you can read what im talking about, it says to set the glass braces on top using aquarium grade silicon. easy enough. but i really dont trust the simple design that they give of just 4 separate 2" peices of glass stuck on top. what id like to do is build the tank to the specification given excpet for the top braces and instead replace them with a custom cut piece of acrylic which is one solid piece; it would look like 2 rectangles joined by a common side in the middle - the center brace which would run front to back and be 2" wide - this 2" width would continue for the perimiter of the rest of the brace which would travel on top of the sides. does that paint a clear picture? should i elaborate, cause i can if you dont get it. basically its gona cover the same area as the original 4 glass pieces as well as a 2" wide bridge in the middle (front to back down the center)... and would be all one piece. i feel that the solid single piece of acrylic would be more secure, and while im sure i can trust the ppl at garf to do the math right i still think id sleep better not wondering if they did
here are the garf instructions as i mentioned with the instrutctions in question highlighted in bold face:
Tank Information:
Material = Glass
Tank Height = 15"
Tank Width = 14"
Tank Length = 60 "
Glass Thickness = 1/4"
Approximate Gallons = 55
Cut List:
Bottom = 59 1/2 " x 13 1/2"
Front = 60 " x 15"
Back = 60 " x 15"
2 Sides = 15 " x 13 1/2"
Top Front/Back brace = 59 1/2 " x 2"
Top Sides brace = 13 1/2 " x 2"
Additional Materials
1. Tube of aquarium grade silicone
2. Tape or clamps for holding the peices in place
3. Solvent for clean up.
4. Rags/Paper towels for clean up.
5. 1/4 inch wooden dowels.
Getting Started
Lay bottom, front, back and side pieces out on a large flat surface.
Cut the 1/4 inch dowels slightly shorter than the length of the bottom. Place the dowels under the bottom piece of glass. It is important that the weight of the aquarium is supported by the front, back and sides. There should never be any support under the bottom glass as this could fracture it.
Run a bead of silicone along all edges of the bottom glass. (these are the edges that will seal with the front, back, and side glass)
Carefully place all pieces in place surrounding the bottom piece. All contacting surfaces should have a bead of silicone.
Use tape or clamps to hold the pieces in the correct position. When using silicone you will have plenty of time to make adjustments. Silicone can become a gooy sticky mess so you should keep the material and work area as clean as possible.
Once all pieces are correctly positioned, let the aquarium set for 24 hours.
After the silicone has cured, it is time to add the glass to the top. This piece of glass makes the sides stronger so the glass does not bow when the tank is filled.
are they saying it should be one solid piece of glass? because this seems to differ from the cut list above.
Let the tank cure in a warm room for 72 hours before you fill it with fresh water. If there are any leaks you can apply an additional bead of silicone to the inside seam.
i went on garf's DIY tank builder site ( http/www.garf.org/tank/buildtank.asp ) and put in the desminsions of 60"l x 14"w x 15"h (55 gallon long) with glass as the medium of choice. it came back with nice little instructions which i undertand, but raises one important question for me if i were to attempt this while i have time off this summer (and hopefully money ). in the instructions, which i will copy and paste below this so you can read what im talking about, it says to set the glass braces on top using aquarium grade silicon. easy enough. but i really dont trust the simple design that they give of just 4 separate 2" peices of glass stuck on top. what id like to do is build the tank to the specification given excpet for the top braces and instead replace them with a custom cut piece of acrylic which is one solid piece; it would look like 2 rectangles joined by a common side in the middle - the center brace which would run front to back and be 2" wide - this 2" width would continue for the perimiter of the rest of the brace which would travel on top of the sides. does that paint a clear picture? should i elaborate, cause i can if you dont get it. basically its gona cover the same area as the original 4 glass pieces as well as a 2" wide bridge in the middle (front to back down the center)... and would be all one piece. i feel that the solid single piece of acrylic would be more secure, and while im sure i can trust the ppl at garf to do the math right i still think id sleep better not wondering if they did
here are the garf instructions as i mentioned with the instrutctions in question highlighted in bold face:
Tank Information:
Material = Glass
Tank Height = 15"
Tank Width = 14"
Tank Length = 60 "
Glass Thickness = 1/4"
Approximate Gallons = 55
Cut List:
Bottom = 59 1/2 " x 13 1/2"
Front = 60 " x 15"
Back = 60 " x 15"
2 Sides = 15 " x 13 1/2"
Top Front/Back brace = 59 1/2 " x 2"
Top Sides brace = 13 1/2 " x 2"
Additional Materials
1. Tube of aquarium grade silicone
2. Tape or clamps for holding the peices in place
3. Solvent for clean up.
4. Rags/Paper towels for clean up.
5. 1/4 inch wooden dowels.
Getting Started
Lay bottom, front, back and side pieces out on a large flat surface.
Cut the 1/4 inch dowels slightly shorter than the length of the bottom. Place the dowels under the bottom piece of glass. It is important that the weight of the aquarium is supported by the front, back and sides. There should never be any support under the bottom glass as this could fracture it.
Run a bead of silicone along all edges of the bottom glass. (these are the edges that will seal with the front, back, and side glass)
Carefully place all pieces in place surrounding the bottom piece. All contacting surfaces should have a bead of silicone.
Use tape or clamps to hold the pieces in the correct position. When using silicone you will have plenty of time to make adjustments. Silicone can become a gooy sticky mess so you should keep the material and work area as clean as possible.
Once all pieces are correctly positioned, let the aquarium set for 24 hours.
After the silicone has cured, it is time to add the glass to the top. This piece of glass makes the sides stronger so the glass does not bow when the tank is filled.
are they saying it should be one solid piece of glass? because this seems to differ from the cut list above.
Let the tank cure in a warm room for 72 hours before you fill it with fresh water. If there are any leaks you can apply an additional bead of silicone to the inside seam.