Aquaclear Vs. Penguin


The amount of nitrifying bacteria depends as much on surface area for the bacteria to adhere to as how much O2 is available to those bacteria. Your standard wet/dry filters with an overflow & sump work as well as they do not just because of exposure to O2, but because of the much larger surface area from using so much media.


No disagreement there.

The same holds true for canisters, fluidized bed, or a hob with bio media. Canister & fluidized bed filters probably have about the same O2 exposure as a hob with bio media; the reason they work so well is quantity of surface area.

No disagreement there either, however, there is a difference between the wet/dry filters mentioned earlier vs the submerged biomedia filters above. You cannot directly compare the surface area of the two. That's analogous to comparing displacements of a turbo inline 4 vs a naturally aspirated V8.

More O2 doesnt mean a larger bacterial colony, more surface area does.

I didn't say more O2 means a larger bacterial colony..I said more efficiency. With higher efficiency you don't need a very large surface area for a large bacterial colony. Obviously you would need a minimum amount of surface area but that goes without saying.

You pirobably know that most of the O2 transfer to your water occurs through surface agitation, as long as you have the proper O2 level in your water either the biowheel or submerged bio media will have enough O2 to do what it’s designed to do. If more O2 increased the bacteria level by any significant amount, running a stream of O2 from a cylinder over your biowheel, or bio media in a wet/dry should tremendously improve performance. Aquarists run CO2 in planted tanks, why not a little straight O2 over your exposed bio media? You should see a five fold increase in performance.

You cannot get 500hp from a 1cc turbocharged engine, but you can't use a 500hp V12 either if it can't fit inside the car. The difference between the two filters is the fact the bacteria gets it's own O2 from the air and doesn't compete with the fish for O2 which gets it from the water. In other words you don't need to depend on the oxygen content of the water to get great bio filtration.

Yes media gets plugged with debris. The solution? Rinse it in old tank or other dechlorinated water. Efficiency regained. Every manufacturer of every filter wants you to replace media all the time. More fluff. The only media that needs to be replaced on any regular basis is your fine floss, or carbon if you bother with it. Everything else can be rinsed until it actually is falling apart. This takes years, I have several AC sponges that are years old, the oldest is around 7. They will show wear, but still work. I have yet to see any bio media show wear. That’s cost effective. If you have to replace media that often something is wrong with the design or usage.

Well rinsing is another added maintenance step which I personally can do without. The biowheel gets more efficient as it ages unlike biomedia which lose efficiency as it gets clogged.

I think you may have misunderstand what I meant by sponge filters, perhaps I should have been more clear; air driven sponge filters, the internal kind. These will blow away any hob, biowheel or otherwise, as far as bio filtration is concerned. The reason is surface area; breeders with consistently overstocked tanks use them all the time. Racks of 10’s, 20’s and such work well with the old sponge filters, most breeders shy away from a centralized system with one large sump. Cross contamination is a concern, as well as often needing to have different water parameters from tank to tank.

Well that's a niche segment that a sponge filter would be good at. However I was talking about one huge tank full of fish etc say 250gallons. You'd be crazy to use a sponge filter for that.

Comparing a canister to a hob is easier to reason than comparing any filter to Ferraris & groceries. Once again, it’s quantity of media that makes canisters work so well, something ACs have over the biowheel designs.

As I explained ealier quantity does not equal efficiency. A 2.2 Liter turbocharged inline 4 could EASILY output 1000hp. Can you do that with a naturally aspirated 2.2 liter? Maybe with a F-1 V12 sure but how much does it cost? An Emperor 400 with two biowheels 400GPH only costs $40, how much does that 400GPH canister cost?

I dont know what kind of bad experiences youve had with canister filters, I spend less time maintaining them than hobs, it isnt much of a chore, they donât have leakage problems from anything not sealing tightly, and have plenty of benefits. Quantity of media, flexibility of media, longer periods between maintenance, the ability to run a few tanks at once utilizing bridging, and they are probably the quietest filter commonly used. Large marine systems use wet/dry filters because that is the most cost effective for a system that size.

In my experience canister filters are pretty messy to service. HOBs don't need servicing at all, except to replace the filter floss or carbon which you could do in 2 seconds. You don't need to shut it down, open it up, and rinse the biomedia like you do with canisters.

Can an AC beat a bio wheel with just a sponge? Name a couple of comparable biowheel & AC filters. Iâm due for an online order, and can set up a couple of tanks, feed them ammonia, and once they are cycled see which one eats the ammonia first. Iâm not going to break the bank on this one, so donât start naming AC110s & such. I love messing with this sort of thing. But what we can also do is once they are cycled & done with the little ammo experiment is to toss in a few ounces of cheap flake, a handful of topsoil, and other nasties, and see which one fares better. If you are going to test, test it good. Check out the mechanical aspect as well. Xoedusk has posted a nice example of someone doing something similar.

I don't think testing a "just cycled" tank as a good test of true performance. I'd say at least 4 months with ZERO maintenance. I don't care if the filter is great when it's new. I care about how great it is after many months of use. Frequency of maintenance to sustain efficiency is an important factor too. If I have to do maintenance every couple of months to regain efficiency, it's not something I care for. Also testing mechanical filtering ability by throwing soil into the tank is pretty illogical. I don't keep fish in a tank filled with mud so I don't need that kind of mechanical filtering performance. I care more about biological performance. When buying a Ferrari I don't think the buyer cares about its offroad performance.

I have pulled the little tray out, and used various foam, floss, and bio media in a variety of filters, including Penguin & Marineland. They choke. Tetra is no better; the closest thing I found so far was a used Hartz/Mountain. You can get them to run with half the media of a comparable AC, they dont continue running during 50% water changes like an AC. I wouldnt bother trying peat in them. An AC 70 sponge fits on end in an AC 20, fills the entire media case, and the filter still runs. I constantly mess with filters & such; I have more sponge, floss, hoses and pvc in various sizes lying around than you want to think about. I dont hesitate to build my own gear, or modify existing designs.

How can they choke? They are just empty baskets with water flowing in then out. BTW I don't ever do 50% water changes, unless I've been really lazy. If you need to do 50% water changes often then you need to be more organized.

Yes you pull out the carbon, and you have a slim little pad that is thinner than anything I would dare even wash my dishes with. My wife & daughter have makeup pads that are thicker than that, and appear more durable. Your link is to a sales ad from Marine land’s site, sales departments in any situation will promise the moon. This link is actually a better one but raises a few questions.

Yes it's thin, that's the way it was designed. It's designed for a high rate of waterflow as well as quick removal unlike the stacked compartments of the AC. Why in the world would you want to pack a bunch of media/carbon into a small filter? You'd just slow down the waterflow losing efficiency.

9.39 miles of fiber tells you nothing about surface area.

Of course it does. Calculate the surface area of 1 inch of fiber then do the conversions. It's basic geometry.

Your second link is a nice examination of bio filtration that does include other parameters besides O2, and their effect on bio filtration. Problem is its still off of Marineland’s site, written by a Marineland employee. It might be a little biased.

It may or may not be biased but it makes a lot of sense nonetheless.

If you really want to get the best of both worlds, you can modify the AC design to run a biowheel. I had a link to a site where someone modified a 110 to fit a wheel from a Penguin. A little drilling, gluing, and a biowheel with a shaft gives you the media capabilities along with the biological capabilities. You are not going to get a biowheel filter to run properly with the amount of media in a comparable AC. Ive tried.

Well see that's the problem. With a biowheel you don't need to use the same amount of media as the AC. It's a different kind of filter. it's a wet/dry filter.

Also the Emperor 400 and Biowheel 350 has plenty of bio filtration capacity. It has two biowheels, variable speed spraybar, and 4 slots for media baskets and trays. Why go through the trouble of modifying an AC to work with a biowheel when you can have the real thing? There are also biowheels that can be purchased separately and made to work with powerheads. There's also the Magnum 350 canister/biowheel deluxe system.

I dont need or trust sales catchphrases such as â superior oxygen/oxygen exchange or â highly effective wet/dry repeated to sell me a product. If I hear good things about it, Ill try it out, work with it a little. If it doesnt work out, it goes away. If it does work out, Ill try more of that product. `scientific fact' with a couple of links to the manufacturers site doesnât cut it as far as Im concerned.

Well you've yet to prove it doesn't work as well as it says it does. The only evidence you have is your opinion which boils down to it being a gimmick. That doesn't really strengthen your position.

If you want to do this little filter experiment PaPeRo let me know, Ill probably be ordering gear on Saturday. Lets try to figure something that will run reasonably well on a 10 gallon, I have a few lying around. You really dont know for sure unless you play with different products, this is something I really enjoy. This also gets us back to our original question: AquaClear vs. Penguin.


AC 30 vs Penguin Biowheel150
 
I love everyone.

Me too, I'm playing nice nice. :)

You seem to be overly concerned with O2 levels in aquariums, as if bio filtration is going to suck all the O2 out, leaving little for the fish. I don’t think this is as big a concern as you make it to be; folks running planted tanks with low water flow, and little surface agitation keep fish just fine. Too much surface agitation drives off the CO2, which is needed for plants.

You also like to try to compare aquarium filters to automotive engines. Apples & oranges, other than O2 consumption, which is common to many other things. Maybe I should compare hob’s to the smoke I just lit, it has a filter.

Rinsing filter media is part of filter maintenance; I doubt your wet/dry sump filters you like to compare biowheels to never have the media rinsed. I know shops with centralized systems with way more than 250 gallons on a system rinse media as part of their regular maintenance. That biowheel will have to be rinsed, the ends get scummed up, it quits rotating. Good luck if this happens after you pull out & replace your mechanical media, especially if you are away for any amount of time when it happens.

You seem to think gph is the be all & end all to filtration. I could put 1,000 gph through a piece of cheesecloth, but it wouldn’t make a good filter. You need to have an understanding about canisters; they are a low flow filter. A canister that runs 400 gph would work for a 250 gallon tank, your 400 gph hob is recommended for an 80 gallon. A canister rated for an 80 gallon puts out 160 gph, and costs $100 if you want to go with an Eheim, $75 for a Rena. Your messy to service canisters go for months without being touched. I just serviced a couple of Eheims today, a 2222 & a 2224. One took 17 minutes, the other 19 minutes. I haven’t touched them in 8 months. This is with some serious duty on overstocked breeding tanks. No hob will handle that.

Obviously I care about good a filter runs after many months of use. Only testing the biological aspect of a filter is only half testing it. I would like to see how many hours, or maybe minutes a filter will take to convert a given quantity in ppm of ammonia once cycled. This is a start. Give me some ideas as to what should be put in the tank to test it’s mechanical ability. Something measurable, such as an ounce of flake weekly, ¼ cup of dried leaves from my yard to imitate plant debris, or topsoil to imitate fish debris. You name it, I’ll toss it in, as long as there are no fish in there. Since you are so concerned with bio performance we’ll start there. I don’t think any hob will be running for 4 months with the abuse I plan. I know none run that long in my fishroom.

How do filters choke? They stop running. The pump is not powerful enough to maintain water flow. When a filter does that something is wrong. I have run both biowheel & ac filters on the same tank, with extended intakes, and left them running during 50% water changes. The ac runs, the biowheel stops, this tells me a lot about the pump capabilities.

Before you get too concerned about my fishroom organization, you may want to check my profile. It would be nice if you filled out yours, as it’s tough to tell what someone is running, what they are into, etc. without it. I breed angels for the most part, with some cats & other cichlids a little bit. If you know anything about breeding you would know that 50% water changes weekly is nothing, some tanks get changed twice weekly, some get 80%. It has nothing to do with any lack of organization; it’s a fact of life with breeding. I could put out 200 angels weekly with my setup; I’m just hitting 100 weekly now. I sell to brokers, shops, as well as at auctions and swaps. That’s just my fishroom, it doesn’t include club activities, as I’m on the board & chair a couple committees. Toss the usual 50-hour workweek on top of that, and I could tell you more than a few things about organization.

So I should tear up a bio wheel, mike out the thickness of a fiber to calculate the circumference, and figure out the area. For all the yammering Marineland does about their product research you think they would have done that one.

I have a couple of magnum 350’s, they are in a box, used, given to me. One started to leak after 18 months, the other is nearly new, and was replaced by an Eheim canister. The quality concerns me. I’ll probably end up using them just for the pump.

You seem worried that I’m just spouting off the top of my head & have nothing to support it. Just an opinion. Actions speak louder than words; there is an ac 150 & penguin 150 on the way, along with a couple of heaters. Time to find out which is better.

Let me know what type of debris you want to see tossed into the tanks to test mechanical filtration.
 
I have no personal experience of penguin bio-wheels as the UK has not been conned by this advertising method. We tend to use cannisters far more because of all the reasons mentioned by tolak: huge media capacity, quiet operation and the long periods between maintenance. I never maintained mine more frequently than once a fortnight.

PaPeRo mentioned wet dry filtration being used in large marine setups and this is, and isn't, true. Most marine systems now incorporate a large amount of live rock which in itself aids the filtration and this is supplemented by a protein skimmer. You will almost never see a system purely filtered by a wet/dry system such as all of my freshwater tanks are.

PaPeRo mentioned that he doesn't want to rinse media, this is essential in any true wet dry. I find my filter floss over my wet dry tanks clogs up within 3 days so it needs a lot more maintenance than my cannisters. The difference is my trickle towers are set up with larger filter capacity than my cannisters I had and having the mechanical media exposed makes the mechanical filtration far more effective.

As mentioned I have no personal experience of the bio-wheel, but have read many threads on this and other forums which complain about how the bio wheel stops turning very shortly after maintenance as a result of getting clogged up. It seems to me it is an effective method of filtration, but one which suffers from the need for more frequent mechanical filtration maintenance as do all wet dry filters to stay effective.

One question though. How does a biowheel get more effeicient as it ages without maintenance? If it has a high surface area it will gradually get clogged, everything does. Even my trickle towers are gradually having a slow build up on the bio balls. Fortunately this is slow enough I estimate an 18-24 month period between maintenance on the actual bio ball tower (in addition to twice weekly rinsing of the filter floss under a tap).
 
I don't see the point of fancy stuff like Biowheels- you're going to have the same amounnt of bacteria in a non-biowheeled filter as one with a Biowheel. Why? Because food is the limiting factor, not oxygen. You can provide the bacteria with all the oxygen you want, but it won't have any effect if the amount of ammonia isn't sufficient to support a larger population. There's enough oxygen in the water to keep more than enough bacteria for your tank alive.
 
One caution concerning AC vs Penguin and the better of the two bio wheels, IMO, Emperor is the issue of self priming. The Emperor will restart if there is a power outage, but the AquaClear does not. In a heavily stocked tank, the Penguin bio wheel does bog down and have difficulty keeping up, needing extra attention.

I have been sticking bags of Chemi Pure in the Emperor basket. I do like the ability to stuff media in the AC. I find that each system has positives and drawbacks.

On the other hand this is an interesting thread. I am courious expecially about the recommendations for media. I just got two canisters. Now all I need is some idea of how to install them. :lol:
 
Filters are in! :good: I probably won't get a chance to set this up until the weekend, it's starting to pick up at work. Gotta make the money to pay for the toys! :lol:
 
I got an Aqua Clear 300/70 to run tandem with my Rena XP3... so far so good, even with both filters it is so quiet!
 
I have no personal experience of penguin bio-wheels as the UK has not been conned by this advertising method.

And yet you've already decided that it's a marketing gimmick... :good:

We tend to use cannisters far more because of all the reasons mentioned by tolak: huge media capacity, quiet operation and the long periods between maintenance. I never maintained mine more frequently than once a fortnight.

Yet you've ignored all the drawbacks of canisters.

PaPeRo mentioned wet dry filtration being used in large marine setups and this is, and isn't, true. Most marine systems now incorporate a large amount of live rock which in itself aids the filtration and this is supplemented by a protein skimmer. You will almost never see a system purely filtered by a wet/dry system such as all of my freshwater tanks are.

For lightly stocked tanks live rock and a protein skimmer is enough. For heavily stocked tanks like commercial systems there will likely be some kind of wetdry filter.

PaPeRo mentioned that he doesn't want to rinse media, this is essential in any true wet dry.

Wrong.

I find my filter floss over my wet dry tanks clogs up within 3 days so it needs a lot more maintenance than my cannisters.

I don't rinse filter floss, I replace it. Mine didn't need replacing until a month or more. Maybe if your tank wasn't so filthy you wouldn't need to rinse the floss every 3 days. Anyone who needs to rinse their filter floss every 3 days need to re-evaluate their stocking/feeding/setup. :lol:

As mentioned I have no personal experience of the bio-wheel, but have read many threads on this and other forums which complain about how the bio wheel stops turning very shortly after maintenance as a result of getting clogged up.

Again no personal experience except hearsay. Biowheels don't stop running in a short time. I have it so can talk. The only thing that may happen is if the spray bar gets clogged which doesn't happen very often.

It seems to me it is an effective method of filtration, but one which suffers from the need for more frequent mechanical filtration maintenance as do all wet dry filters to stay effective.

Again hollow claims.

One question though. How does a biowheel get more effeicient as it ages without maintenance? If it has a high surface area it will gradually get clogged, everything does. Even my trickle towers are gradually having a slow build up on the bio balls. Fortunately this is slow enough I estimate an 18-24 month period between maintenance on the actual bio ball tower (in addition to twice weekly rinsing of the filter floss under a tap).

Last time I checked water flows OVER the surface of the wheel. It doesn't go through it. Whether the wheel is porous or solid makes no difference since there's nothing to clog.
 
It's all just talk until you spend a little time & money investigating it. :)
 
It's all just talk until you spend a little time & money investigating it. :)

Which you haven't even done yet are claiming it a gimmick. :lol:

"You seem to be overly concerned with O2 levels in aquariums, as if bio filtration is going to suck all the O2 out, leaving little for the fish. I don’t think this is as big a concern as you make it to be; folks running planted tanks with low water flow, and little surface agitation keep fish just fine. Too much surface agitation drives off the CO2, which is needed for plants."

Plants release O2 into the water, just like plants release O2 into the air so you can get away with less surface agitation in planted tanks. Regardless what does too much surface agitation have anything to do with AC vs Biowheel? They both agitate the water surface. The point which you've completely ignored is that on a Biowheel the bacteria have an abundant supply of O2 due to being wet/dry unlike any submerged media filter which gets MUCH less O2. With less O2 you NEED more surface area for more bacteria to do the same amount of work as a smaller colony with superior O2 and efficiency. The latter is called smarter bio-engineering. Keep ignoring this, the scientific facts won't change.

"You also like to try to compare aquarium filters to automotive engines. Apples & oranges, other than O2 consumption, which is common to many other things. Maybe I should compare hob’s to the smoke I just lit, it has a filter."

Anyone with an engineering degree would accept the engine analogy without much fuss...sorry if you don't have one. Comparing surface area from different types of filters is utterly moronic..as is comparing displacements of two different types of engines (NA vs FI) apples vs oranges. You don't have the efficiency so you have to make it up with brute force -> more biomedia that gets clogged.

"Rinsing filter media is part of filter maintenance; I doubt your wet/dry sump filters you like to compare biowheels to never have the media rinsed. I know shops with centralized systems with way more than 250 gallons on a system rinse media as part of their regular maintenance. That biowheel will have to be rinsed, the ends get scummed up, it quits rotating. Good luck if this happens after you pull out & replace your mechanical media, especially if you are away for any amount of time when it happens."

I don't rinse the biowheel, never have over my many years of usage. Must be magic.

"You seem to think gph is the be all & end all to filtration. I could put 1,000 gph through a piece of cheesecloth, but it wouldn’t make a good filter. You need to have an understanding about canisters; they are a low flow filter. A canister that runs 400 gph would work for a 250 gallon tank, your 400 gph hob is recommended for an 80 gallon. A canister rated for an 80 gallon puts out 160 gph, and costs $100 if you want to go with an Eheim, $75 for a Rena. Your messy to service canisters go for months without being touched. I just serviced a couple of Eheims today, a 2222 & a 2224. One took 17 minutes, the other 19 minutes. I haven’t touched them in 8 months. This is with some serious duty on overstocked breeding tanks. No hob will handle that."

Nobody said GPH is the only factor. Again you bring up retarded examples like 1000GPH and cheese cloth. I'm still laughing over your utterly useless 100% O2 and zero surface area example. Any moron with more than a couple of brain cells knows GPH without any filtering material is useless as a filter. Likewise any moron would know these examples are utterly useless and shouldn't have been brought up in the first place.

Whether it's high flow or low flow is irrelevent when the end result is still twice the cost af an equivalent HOB Biowheel. An Emperor 400 is less than $40, the Eheim is $100, Rena $75...no contest but thanks anyway. Oh and 17 minutes and 19 minutes can't even touch the Biowheel which takes ZERO minutes since the wheel doesn't need service. The only thing that needs service is cartridge replacement which can be done in 5 whole seconds on a Biowheel!

"Obviously I care about good a filter runs after many months of use. Only testing the biological aspect of a filter is only half testing it. I would like to see how many hours, or maybe minutes a filter will take to convert a given quantity in ppm of ammonia once cycled. This is a start. Give me some ideas as to what should be put in the tank to test it’s mechanical ability. Something measurable, such as an ounce of flake weekly, ¼ cup of dried leaves from my yard to imitate plant debris, or topsoil to imitate fish debris. You name it, I’ll toss it in, as long as there are no fish in there. Since you are so concerned with bio performance we’ll start there. I don’t think any hob will be running for 4 months with the abuse I plan. I know none run that long in my fishroom."

If none can run that long in YOUR room why do you expect magic out of a Biowheel? Doesn't make sense. How about you test out the biofiltration capability first using pure ammonia instead of obsessing over the mechanical capability? In a healthy tank you will have VERY LITTLE particulate matter unless you're an oddball who overfeeds just to test a filter's mechanical filtration capability.

"How do filters choke? They stop running. The pump is not powerful enough to maintain water flow. When a filter does that something is wrong. I have run both biowheel & ac filters on the same tank, with extended intakes, and left them running during 50% water changes. The ac runs, the biowheel stops, this tells me a lot about the pump capabilities."

And when a filter doesn't self prime like the ACs you are SOL during a power outage unless you have a UPS which is just an expensive bandaid for your AC's lack of self priming. There is nothing wrong with the Biowheel HOBs. It has a minimum water level that needs to be met like many other filters. If you don't follow the directions that's your problem not the filter's.

You are also SOL when you don't rinse the media and sponge on the ACs because the flow rate drops. On a Biowheel there is no rinsing.

"Before you get too concerned about my fishroom organization, you may want to check my profile. It would be nice if you filled out yours, as it’s tough to tell what someone is running, what they are into, etc. without it. I breed angels for the most part, with some cats & other cichlids a little bit. If you know anything about breeding you would know that 50% water changes weekly is nothing, some tanks get changed twice weekly, some get 80%. It has nothing to do with any lack of organization; it’s a fact of life with breeding. I could put out 200 angels weekly with my setup; I’m just hitting 100 weekly now. I sell to brokers, shops, as well as at auctions and swaps. That’s just my fishroom, it doesn’t include club activities, as I’m on the board & chair a couple committees. Toss the usual 50-hour workweek on top of that, and I could tell you more than a few things about organization."

Read above.

"I have a couple of magnum 350’s, they are in a box, used, given to me. One started to leak after 18 months, the other is nearly new, and was replaced by an Eheim canister. The quality concerns me. I’ll probably end up using them just for the pump."

That's unfortunate, however, that doesn't mean there's a problem with its quality or design. They were used...end of story. I'll get concerned when there's a trend.

"You seem worried that I’m just spouting off the top of my head & have nothing to support it. Just an opinion. Actions speak louder than words; there is an ac 150 & penguin 150 on the way, along with a couple of heaters. Time to find out which is better.

Let me know what type of debris you want to see tossed into the tanks to test mechanical filtration."

Again mechanical tests using garbage tossed into the tank is utterly pointless. My tanks have fish, fish don't excrete topsoil or dried leaves. Anyone who has that crap floating around in their tanks with fish should find a new hobby.

As far as biofiltration is concerned I hope you have fun dosing those two tanks with pure ammonia for the next 6 months with only cartridge replacements and no rinsing of biomedia and foam. :p :lol:
 
You are still just talking PaPeRo. You are completely turning down perfectly valid, and generally accepted ways fo comparing filters in the aquarist community from amateur level up to people reviewing for a magazine product review.

To quote your favourite line of argument: Give me some scientific peer reviewed paper to back up your views. Until then I am right and you are wrong ;)
 
You are still just talking PaPeRo. Give me some scientific peer reviewed paper to back up your views. Until then I am right and you are wrong ;)

Do a google search for wet/dry filtration and O2. ;)

Also get back to me when you've actually used a Biowheel and can backup your hollow claims. :lol:

You are completely turning down perfectly valid, and generally accepted ways fo comparing filters in the aquarist community from amateur level up to people reviewing for a magazine product review.

You mean like dumping dried leaves and topsoil into a tank? Accepted by who, morons? :lol:

Still wanna argue about trace elements? Didn't think so. :blush:
 
Still wanna argue about trace elements? Didn't think so. :blush:
Nah, you have been well and truly pwn3d there. I don't get satisfaction from beating a dead horse. ;)

Yeah that's problaby why you couldn't support your own argument. You didn't need my help conducting self ownage, though you did need the help of others by quoting them without actually realizing it didn't support your own claims. Sorry but it would've been more helpful if you understood what you cut and paste. :lol:

Again take some college Bio courses then get back to me. ;)
 

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