Anyone Got A 1.25Wpg Planted Condition And Survive?

[Livewire88]

My tank is running 2 x 30Watt T8 bulbs (wich works out less than 1.25 WPG) and my plants grow well

 

[Scopee]

S019,

Gosh! That's a doomsday prediction for my tank. So if I get liquid fertilizers, you'd change that prediction?
Let's try no liquid fertilizers for 2 months and see if I need to replace the plants. I am assuming my Japanese branded soil will provide enough nutrients alongside with my fishes.

Livewire88,

If that's the tank in your sig, you sure got a beautifully planted tank. And yes, if yours can thrive under 1.25WPG, hopefully mine can. But you mentioned 2x30W... that should be 60w already. Given the spread of light, if your tank were to be 2ft, that'd be over 1.25WPG, isn't it?

 

[Livewire88]

S019,

Gosh! That's a doomsday prediction for my tank. So if I get liquid fertilizers, you'd change that prediction?
Let's try no liquid fertilizers for 2 months and see if I need to replace the plants. I am assuming my Japanese branded soil will provide enough nutrients alongside with my fishes.

Livewire88,

If that's the tank in your sig, you sure got a beautifully planted tank. And yes, if yours can thrive under 1.25WPG, hopefully mine can. But you mentioned 2x30W... that should be 60w already. Given the spread of light, if your tank were to be 2ft, that'd be over 1.25WPG, isn't it?

If my maths is correct my tank is 1.1WPG if you use US gallons, or 1.38WPG if you use UK gallons.

Either way I would class the tank as low light

 

[Scopee]

S019,

Gosh! That's a doomsday prediction for my tank. So if I get liquid fertilizers, you'd change that prediction?
Let's try no liquid fertilizers for 2 months and see if I need to replace the plants. I am assuming my Japanese branded soil will provide enough nutrients alongside with my fishes.

Livewire88,

If that's the tank in your sig, you sure got a beautifully planted tank. And yes, if yours can thrive under 1.25WPG, hopefully mine can. But you mentioned 2x30W... that should be 60w already. Given the spread of light, if your tank were to be 2ft, that'd be over 1.25WPG, isn't it?

If my maths is correct my tank is 1.1WPG if you use US gallons, or 1.38WPG if you use UK gallons.

Either way I would class the tank as low light

Whatever. As long as it works, I'd be happy. Now I am observing my lone surviving shrimp and the two Ottos. Hopefully they will survive.

I suspect my pretty planted tank is helping with the ammonia level. Heard that shrimps are sensitive, so if that shrimp survives... meeans the ammonia and nitrite level should be under control. Wonder now when will the algae strike in force.

 

[Livewire88]

opps!!

 

[Scopee]

What?

 

[SO19Firearms]

If you have an ammonia reading you probably shouldn't be keeping livestock in there. It might be from the substrate in which case large water changes will help until it's leached out...
More plants will help too if you've tried to skip the cycle.

 

[Livewire88]

What?

Sorry I was replying to a different thread on this one in error!!

 

[Scopee]

S019,

I totally agree.

I am looking at this little chap everyday. It is the lone survivor of this apocalyse. If it can survive long enough, he'd be joined by another 3 shrimps. I know it is kinda of dumb, but I never really test the water for ammonia nor will I be testing. The water will age, right? When I see algae, I'd know nitrate has been building up which also means the end of the cycle.

As you can see, this tank is pretty heavily planted. Hope it helps shorten the cycling process, or circumvents the process somehow.

All green, man! Hope the chaps survive the cycling.

Livewire88,

LOL! That's for the 'oops'~

Anything similar that I can learn? If so, please provide the link.

 

[SO19Firearms]

I get the no testing thing (although if I only owned one test kit it would be ammonia), but I do think you're throwing the rule book out of the window a little. That's pretty cool in its own right but then mentioning nitrates when talking about algae is wrong in itself so I think you should probably read this PARC thread if you haven't already, get yourself a sound basis to work on and then start tinkering with the rules.
In the long run, it'll be better for your wallet, better for the future and probably above all better for the little dudes in the tank....

 

[Scopee]

"Nutrients

First off can i just say Excess Nutrients don't cause algae. If you have any questions on this please ask as i can give out lots of information that shows otherwise.

Nutrients feed algae, they do not cause algae.

And that is the important thing, and it is a big difference between cause & feed, that is where most of the confusion comes from.
Algae is never CO2, or nutrient limited. Even the small amount of nutrients released by fish waste is enough for algae there is no way around it. So using chemical removers means algae grows slower... it also means plants suffer.... which then means they leach ammonia and algae still has a source of nutrients
Removing nutrients only makes problems worse, you need to address the cause, which is explained below under "algae""

That's what it says. Actually I read about the Nitrate thing from one link from someone in this forum, it's all about Algae.

And you are half right, I usually don't care about rules, the other half is that I have been reading extensively and many people are saying alot of things here and there. Some said at the end of the cycle, algae comes. And I am hoping for algae to feed my Ottos mainly.

I am now like driving around with 'experience'... accumulating here and there, everyday as the tank ages.

Now I look at the 2ft tank... I used to think 2ft is pretty big for Neon Tetras, now I think it's so small... I simply hope I can hack care the rules.