Anubis growing in pale.

[Fishfinder1973]

Could this be due to too much light.one of the leaves was half pale,half green,like a perfect line had been drawn across its width.
Doesn’t explain why some are green and others are yellow,though the green leaves are showing signs of yellow.

 

[Stan510]

You need Iron glutamate. Watch a miraculous recovery. Seachem's works great. Maybe Walgreens generic in pill form..but I've never used that. I have used pills of Potassium glutamate and its worked for Java fern that also did "straight line discolor" btw, fwiw.They now are bigger than ever and evenly green.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

These are the fertz I’ve been adding for a fortnight.
The plants had a dark algae growing on them,especially the Anubis’s,but my otos have cleaned them off and this is the first time I’ve seen them green for ages,but they are defo yellowing and the main leaves have yellow mottling.
Maybe I have to dose more,as I’ve been a little wary and only been dosing about half the recommended amount.

 

[Colin_T]

Are you sure that's an Anubias plant?

The leaves are covered in algae and the plant is dying, that's why the leaves are turning yellow. If the plant is not a true aquatic plant and was grown out of water, that is probably why the leaves are dying.

 

[Byron]

I certainly concur with Colin on the algae...there is a problem with lighting, and likely all those "fertilizers." Iron is more likely causing trouble than helping here, it is only a micronutrient and if in excess will cause algae and plant demise. As for the plant species, I am not up on the Anubias genus but these plants do seem to have the basic structure for Anubias.

I hunted through the JBL site but it does not seem to have the list of what specific nutrients are included, other than potassium. I would assume "macroelements" to refer to macronutrients, but who knows. Nitrogen was mentioned, and that is a nutrient that should never need to be added unless you are running a high-tech system (mega light, diffused CO2, daily nutrients). I would not use this product.

Microb-lift Iron is not at all advisable. Their "All in One" would be a much better option and may help here. It has 14 nutrients listed, and in proportions which is important for plants; excess of "x" can be as dangerous as an insufficiency for many nutrients...like iron as noted. Iron is included, so it should be in sufficient levels to balance.

The Flourish Potassium probably won't harm, but it is not needed if you use the comprehensive All in One [Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium is another good complete liquid fert, up to you which one.]

Now, we need to know the GH of the water (the source of most of the macros calcium, magnesium), and then there is the light. The lack of adequate nutrients may be th main issue, but intense light is another possible--Anubias is a slow-growing plant which means requiring less light (and nutrients obviously) and will frequently attract algae under direct lighting; it all depends, I have had it both ways.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

Cheers for the replies guys.
My tank is low tech and has strong lighting.I decided to try fertz after noticing the sessiliflora was turning a bit brown,which looking back,could have been algae.
It is 100% an aquatic plant,tropica 1 2 grow and its been in the tank for over a year.
That particular plant has never been great and always had algae on the leaves,til recently,but it has always grew,albeit slowly,like it should.
I think it’s a fertz problem,but the other plants are growing like crazy and are lush and green.
I don’t know how soft our water is.I looked on the Scottish water site,but I couldn’t see the numbers,it just said very soft.
I have 6 different plants in the tank and 5 are doing well,but it would be a shame to lose this one,as it was in with the bricks(so to speak)
I will do a test to see how soft the water is and post the results.
Cheers again for the advice,much appreciated.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

This is the result of an api test strip.
I don’t know how accurate these are,but the ph coincides with the master test result.
Maybe this will help find the answer.

 

[Byron]

This is the result of an api test strip.
I don’t know how accurate these are,but the ph coincides with the master test result.
Maybe this will help find the answer.

There is nothing in these parameters (GH, KH, pH) or conditions (nitrite, nitrate) that would influence plants to any degree. While the GH may be soft, using a comprehensive supplement in a low-tech system is all you should need. The amount, and whether liquid or substrate tab or both, depends upon the plant load (species, numbers) and the fish load (the source of nitrogen as ammonia/ammonium).

I still think the light needs to be looked at, intensity is one thing, but spectrum is another. Then there is duration...the light if balanced cannot be on for more than the period sustained by the nutrients, or algae takes advantage.

But, the lack of adequate nutrients as I explained in my earlier post is a major issue here. All 17 nutrients that aquatic plants require must be provided/available, in some form, be it fish organics or additives. And this has certainly been lacking.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

The plants in my tank are
sessiliflora
Anubias nana
Ludwigia repens
Water wisteria
Dwarf hygro
Cryptocoryne wendtii
And the one I have in the photo which I now know as an echinodorus,not an Anubias,apologies for the mistake.

I’ve came to the conclusion that the echindorus isn’t suitable for the tank,as all the other plants are doing well.
I’ve decided to put it in a cold water tank that is currently in the cycling process.I don’t want to start chasing after one plant that isn’t doing too good.
Maybe,just maybe it will do better in this other,much smaller tank.
This tank is for my great nephew,who is only two.He falls asleep while watching the fish in my tank haha.
Maybe I’m barking up the wrong tree,but could it be possible that the hygro and sessiliflora are sucking up all the nutrients,I ask because the hygro has grown ten fold in the past month.Please correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[Byron]

And the one I have in the photo which I now know as an echinodorus,not an Anubias,apologies for the mistake.

I should have caught that, but I was looking at the similar-leaf plant to the right of the Echinodorus, and that plant has an Anubias-like rhizome showing, at least it looks like that in the two photos.

Echinodorus are heavy root feeders, and will always do better with substrate tabs (Flourish Tabs for example, not all tabs are good). If you stuck a tab next to the root mass, i think you would be amazed at the growth after a few weeks. I have for years followed a similar method, try plant "x" and if it fails, move on to another, until you have a tank of plants that obviously work together. do very well for me, I have exactly the right light (moderate), and minimal ferts (always use the tabs though); the photos below are of my 40g tank, the first from 2016 when I set it up with plants culled from other tanks; the large swords are Echinodorus grisebachii (var. bleherae), and the chain swords are now classified in Helanthium as H. bolivianus. You can see multiple inflorescences with adventitious plants running everywhere. The second photo is the 40g tank after I moved in May 2019, and this is now my largest tank, and designed specifically to provide an appropriate environment for my 40-odd Corydoras. E. griesbachii var. bleherae, E. major (the largest sword to the right of centre, which has flowered twice over the past decade, and the H. bolivianum.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

I would say you have hit the nail on the head byron.
For some reason I’ve had it in my head they were anubias (well done Colin t for spotting that).
I haven’t really put them in the substrate.I will need to do this ASAP.
I’ve had them for long enough to remember their species ?.
You are 100% right about the root rabs,I put them in before and they worked well my.Next on the list.
Thanks folks?

 

[Fishfinder1973]

I should have caught that, but I was looking at the similar-leaf plant to the right of the Echinodorus, and that plant has an Anubias-like rhizome showing, at least it looks like that in the two photos.

Echinodorus are heavy root feeders, and will always do better with substrate tabs (Flourish Tabs for example, not all tabs are good). If you stuck a tab next to the root mass, i think you would be amazed at the growth after a few weeks. I have for years followed a similar method, try plant "x" and if it fails, move on to another, until you have a tank of plants that obviously work together. do very well for me, I have exactly the right light (moderate), and minimal ferts (always use the tabs though); the photos below are of my 40g tank, the first from 2016 when I set it up with plants culled from other tanks; the large swords are Echinodorus grisebachii (var. bleherae), and the chain swords are now classified in Helanthium as H. bolivianus. You can see multiple inflorescences with adventitious plants running everywhere. The second photo is the 40g tank after I moved in May 2019, and this is now my largest tank, and designed specifically to provide an appropriate environment for my 40-odd Corydoras. E. griesbachii var. bleherae, E. major (the largest sword to the right of centre, which has flowered twice over the past decade, and the H. bolivianum.

Those plants look really healthy byron ?nice

 

[StevenF]

from this site

Echinodorus are by nature marsh and bog plants that can grow submersed. Many species are grown in aquariums. They prefer good light and grow best in a deep, nutrient-rich substrate. Most will grow in variable water conditions, though the majority need tropical or sub-tropical temperature ranges. Propagation is by division or by adventitious new plants developing on submerged flowering stems. The larger species make magnificent specimen plants for the larger aquarium, though they may form aerial leaves in good conditions. If the inflorescence forms submersed, small plantlets will form instead of flowers. If grown emersed and kept humid, flowers and seeds will normally readily form. The seeds can be grown in damp sand in warm, damp conditions. Additional CO2 often helps in strong growth.​

​

Based on that this plant should do well in an aquarium given enough nutrients. There is a hint of iron deficiencyinone leaf but others just show generally yellowing.

From the test strip photo nitrate levels appear to be zero. ow nitrogen levels can cause yellowing of leaves. But in general it is hard to be sure with the photos. there could be other deficiencies but I cannot be sure.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

Cheers for highlighting this Steven,good information ?