Nothing is written in stone. All answers are up for discussion.
1) The least desireable sandbed is the third choice, 4" deep. This would make it a DSB. Nano systems do not have the surface area for a DSB to function properly and effectively. They tend to be sites for anaerobic growth and can foul the water.
2) None of the above. You can put anything you want in your nano tank if you don't care if an animal starves or inverts it's guts and poisons your tank.
4) All macroalgaes can go sexual, some more than others. Caulerpa is the worst culprit. Chaeto and halimeda probably the least. Last answer is correct, all the above.
5) Third answer, galaxea. This coral has tremendous stinging potential with some of the longest sweepers. At a minimum of six inches plus, it would eliminate 12 inches of space in your tank.
6) First answer is the best. Many people make the error of 'coral plunking' or 'the need for reef'. Nano reefing is a hobby of being a water keeper. People start this hobby and then their eyes get too big. Unh unh. No can do. Adding fish adds ammonia, fish poop, fish food...ALL the stuff that corals hate....NITRATES. Most of us are better off developing our water skills first. Fish challenge water quality. If you want fish...add them first. Get your skills down. If your nitrates stay zero and your fish don't die....you're doin' OK.
7) Last question is correct. During the day, corals undergo photosynthesis. They take CO2 out of the water and give off oxygen. As this happens, the pH will tend to .......rise. At night, photosynthesis stops and the corals respire. They take up O2 and give off CO2. This is why pH in your tank can drop at night. By illuminating the refugium opposite the main tank, it can help to offset this process.
8) Second answer. There are very few people in our 'club' that need to do anything else to their tank except consistent water changes with an excellent sea salt. DO NOT DOSE YOUR TANK UNLESS YOU ARE MEASURING WHAT YOU ARE DOSING. DO NOT DOSE YOUR TANK WITH IODINE UNLESS YOU ARE TESTING FOR ALL THREE COMPONENTS OF IODINE. Never use spring water in your tank..it contains minerals including phosphate. Avoid using baking soda. Use calcium supplements to maintain your Ca2/buffering system (brief answer)
9) Trick question...First and third are good answers with the third being the best. Water changes......JUST DO IT!
Did you pass? LOLOLOL
Keeping you on your toes.
SH
1) The least desireable sandbed is the third choice, 4" deep. This would make it a DSB. Nano systems do not have the surface area for a DSB to function properly and effectively. They tend to be sites for anaerobic growth and can foul the water.
2) None of the above. You can put anything you want in your nano tank if you don't care if an animal starves or inverts it's guts and poisons your tank.
- semi-aggressive and aggressive means just that
- caution, can poison your tank..means...IT CAN
- sorry, sea stars starve in nano tanks
- mandarins are the most beautiful fish I've seen. Sorry..it needs a 100 gallon tank
4) All macroalgaes can go sexual, some more than others. Caulerpa is the worst culprit. Chaeto and halimeda probably the least. Last answer is correct, all the above.
5) Third answer, galaxea. This coral has tremendous stinging potential with some of the longest sweepers. At a minimum of six inches plus, it would eliminate 12 inches of space in your tank.
6) First answer is the best. Many people make the error of 'coral plunking' or 'the need for reef'. Nano reefing is a hobby of being a water keeper. People start this hobby and then their eyes get too big. Unh unh. No can do. Adding fish adds ammonia, fish poop, fish food...ALL the stuff that corals hate....NITRATES. Most of us are better off developing our water skills first. Fish challenge water quality. If you want fish...add them first. Get your skills down. If your nitrates stay zero and your fish don't die....you're doin' OK.
7) Last question is correct. During the day, corals undergo photosynthesis. They take CO2 out of the water and give off oxygen. As this happens, the pH will tend to .......rise. At night, photosynthesis stops and the corals respire. They take up O2 and give off CO2. This is why pH in your tank can drop at night. By illuminating the refugium opposite the main tank, it can help to offset this process.
8) Second answer. There are very few people in our 'club' that need to do anything else to their tank except consistent water changes with an excellent sea salt. DO NOT DOSE YOUR TANK UNLESS YOU ARE MEASURING WHAT YOU ARE DOSING. DO NOT DOSE YOUR TANK WITH IODINE UNLESS YOU ARE TESTING FOR ALL THREE COMPONENTS OF IODINE. Never use spring water in your tank..it contains minerals including phosphate. Avoid using baking soda. Use calcium supplements to maintain your Ca2/buffering system (brief answer)
9) Trick question...First and third are good answers with the third being the best. Water changes......JUST DO IT!
Did you pass? LOLOLOL
Keeping you on your toes.
SH