Angelfish acting weird since last water change

[vintek]

I have yes, did the tests as in the Api test kit. Results are:
pH - 7.6
High pH - 7.8
Ammonia - 1.5 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 10 ppm

From what I read, Ammonia and Nitrate should be at 0 and Ammonia especially can cause respiratory issues which is what the angelfish seems to be experiencing. Although it says to reduce it only if its over 4ppm, so does it need reducing at 1.5?
I will take a video of the cories and post here too but I'm fairly certain they're fine, unless they can have respiratory issues but still act normally?

 

[Byron]

I have yes, did the tests as in the Api test kit. Results are:
pH - 7.6
High pH - 7.8
Ammonia - 1.5 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 10 ppm

From what I read, Ammonia and Nitrate should be at 0 and Ammonia especially can cause respiratory issues which is what the angelfish seems to be experiencing. Although it says to reduce it only if its over 4ppm, so does it need reducing at 1.5?
I will take a video of the cories and post here too but I'm fairly certain they're fine, unless they can have respiratory issues but still act normally?

The ammonia may be an issue. Ammonia will affect respiration, as will nitrite, and other toxins in the water such as CO2 during the night in planted tanks (good surface disturbance solves this, or should). Where did you read that ammonia up to 4 ppm is OK? Also, do you have live plants?

 

[vintek]

It's in the booklet that came with the testing kit, although it doesn't say that up to 4ppm is OK, but more that anything over 0 may affect the fish and to buy the anti-ammonia thing if it's over 4ppm. I had some live plants in the very beginning but took them out months ago, currently just have non live ones.

Also here's the video of the cory catfish (of what I could catch of them) and how the angelfish is doing currently -

 

[Byron]

It's in the booklet that came with the testing kit, although it doesn't say that up to 4ppm is OK, but more that anything over 0 may affect the fish and to buy the anti-ammonia thing if it's over 4ppm. I had some live plants in the very beginning but took them out months ago, currently just have non live ones.

OK. Ammonia above zero is a problem, then, just to be clear. However, there are situations where very low levels of ammonia, in the 0.25 range, can occur with water changes if chloramine is added to the municipal water (not your problem, I do not think any water authorities in the UK use chloramine, someone can correct me if in error). The live plants are very fast at gobbling up any ammonia, and in tanks with some fast growers you should never see ammonia unless the biological system crashes or something. Floating plants are ammonia sinks.

 

[vintek]

OK. Ammonia above zero is a problem, then, just to be clear. However, there are situations where very low levels of ammonia, in the 0.25 range, can occur with water changes if chloramine is added to the municipal water (not your problem, I do not think any water authorities in the UK use chloramine, someone can correct me if in error). The live plants are very fast at gobbling up any ammonia, and in tanks with some fast growers you should never see ammonia unless the biological system crashes or something. Floating plants are ammonia sinks.

Ok thanks. So do you recommend getting some live plants as well then? I wanted to go and get some more at the weekend as just took one non-live one as it started to get very ugly but may opt for some live ones instead if it'll help. Will also buy the ammonia detofixier that the booklet recommends - API Ammo Lock and also recommends API Stress Coat which seems similar to the Tap Water Conditioner that you recommended earlier, not too sure what the difference between the two is or which one is better

 

[Byron]

Ok thanks. So do you recommend getting some live plants as well then? I wanted to go and get some more at the weekend as just took one non-live one as it started to get very ugly but may opt for some live ones instead if it'll help. Will also buy the ammonia detofixier that the booklet recommends - API Ammo Lock and also recommends API Stress Coat which seems similar to the Tap Water Conditioner that you recommended earlier, not too sure what the difference between the two is or which one is better

Yes on plants, but stay with floating as they are easier to grow and they will take up all the ammonia your fish could ever produce. You do not need ammo-lock and more chemicals. And do not use Stress Coat, it has aloe vera which is now believed to harm fish gills. The API Tap Water Condition in my view is the best on the market, no additives, and it is highly concentrated so you use less.

Good floaters if you can find them are Water Sprite, Water Lettuce, Frogbit; some stem plants do well left floating, like Pennywort. If you want lower plants, the pygmy chain swords are pretty hardy, or the common sword plants. You will need a fertilizer for floaters, they use a lot of nutrients, and in the UK I would go with TNC Lite.

The way to solve problems whenever possible is naturally, not with more chemical concoctions. Every substance added to a fish tank has the risk of somehow causing chain reactions, so to speak. Plus many of them are able to diffuse across th cell membranes and cause stress and worse.