Amonia At .25 According To Api Kit On My 10 Gallon Tank

Power heads are really your preference. I love them! Especially in my 55 gallon tank! It keeps a really nice current throughout the tank, which helps move the ammonia, produced from the fish, around more and helps out the filter!

So, yeah, a power head could not hurt at all!

Sometimes when you introduce stuff like water conditioner to a tank, who's fish have never had that before, ever; this can sort of shock them and stress them out, which would explain the deaths.

-FHM

Any preferences for Power head and heater brands and models?
I just bought a walmart brand heater... lol... and it works great! Been working great for about 9 months so far!

As for the power head, I really LOVE the AquaClear powerheads! They make different sizes for different size tanks, so you can't go wrong! Plus they are really quiet!

-FHM
 
Power heads are really your preference. I love them! Especially in my 55 gallon tank! It keeps a really nice current throughout the tank, which helps move the ammonia, produced from the fish, around more and helps out the filter!

So, yeah, a power head could not hurt at all!

Sometimes when you introduce stuff like water conditioner to a tank, who's fish have never had that before, ever; this can sort of shock them and stress them out, which would explain the deaths.

-FHM

Any preferences for Power head and heater brands and models?
I just bought a walmart brand heater... lol... and it works great! Been working great for about 9 months so far!

As for the power head, I really LOVE the AquaClear powerheads! They make different sizes for different size tanks, so you can't go wrong! Plus they are really quiet!

-FHM
Walmart? How fancy! :hyper:

Will research the AquaClear one.
Thanks again!

And since I am asking, which brand of food do you prefer...for the fish not for you. :)
 
Fish food, as you can imagine, is a big topic with hobbyists, so you'll hear as many opinions as there are hobbyists probably. Personally I think you have to just start somewhere with something that you think is reasonably healthy and then learn and take tips from the forum and gradually experiment with making your fish's diet more varied and healthy. I've always thought TetraMin flakes were are decent starting place for beginners, the ones in the brown and yellow bottle, but there are probably plenty of other healthy flake choices out there. Always be cautious when introducing specialty foods, like frozen or live ones. Done correctly of course, they ultimately will provide the healthiest diet, but there can be details that are important: for instance, brine shrimp should be treated more like a "junk food" snack and only given occasionally and bloodworms should not be overfed as they can cause intestinal complications due to their rich nature. Anyway, good luck with your feeding! Its a lot of fun feeding tropicals!

I also agree that FHM's advice of getting in the habit of the weekly water change is essential. This is one of the core skills of the beginner hobby, right alongside understanding biofilters. Always use a gravel cleaning siphon for water changes and gradually work on your skill for deep cleaning the gravel or for cleaning the surface if you have sand as a substrate. Either way, a lot of debris you don't want will go out with the water that's being changed out and that's good. The percentage of water volume you change each week is something that you need to figure out over time. While you might start by changing 25% just because its a nice round number, it could be that a larger or smaller change would be best for your tank.

The nitrate(NO3) tests you perform can help you in narrowing in on the ideal percentage to change. NO3 should usually turn out to be between 5 and 20 ppm -above- whatever your source water ppm is. So if you use tap water as your source water and it has zero ppm nitrate and you are showing 10ppm nitrate(NO3) at your test at the end of the week then your water change percentage is quite good. If your tap water comes in at 10ppm nitrate and your tank tests at 40ppm then you're "adding" 30ppm from the various processes going on in your tank and that's a little high, so even though 40ppm is not a "bad" number for NO3, it still might tell you to perhaps make your water change percentage a little larger, to see if you could get your overall NO3 reading down to 30ppm.

Water changes are really about a lot more than nitrate(NO3) however, they also remove lots of heavy metals and organic substances that you might not want building up in your tank over time (since water that evaporates is pure water, other substances get left behind and build up over time.) So a good nitrate reading would never be an excuse not to do the weekly water change! We all have weekends when we can't do it, but if we understand its importance we'll be anxious to get back to it the next weekend.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Fish food, as you can imagine, is a big topic with hobbyists, so you'll hear as many opinions as there are hobbyists probably. Personally I think you have to just start somewhere with something that you think is reasonably healthy and then learn and take tips from the forum and gradually experiment with making your fish's diet more varied and healthy. I've always thought TetraMin flakes were are decent starting place for beginners, the ones in the brown and yellow bottle, but there are probably plenty of other healthy flake choices out there. Always be cautious when introducing specialty foods, like frozen or live ones. Done correctly of course, they ultimately will provide the healthiest diet, but there can be details that are important: for instance, brine shrimp should be treated more like a "junk food" snack and only given occasionally and bloodworms should not be overfed as they can cause intestinal complications due to their rich nature. Anyway, good luck with your feeding! Its a lot of fun feeding tropicals!

I also agree that FHM's advice of getting in the habit of the weekly water change is essential. This is one of the core skills of the beginner hobby, right alongside understanding biofilters. Always use a gravel cleaning siphon for water changes and gradually work on your skill for deep cleaning the gravel or for cleaning the surface if you have sand as a substrate. Either way, a lot of debris you don't want will go out with the water that's being changed out and that's good. The percentage of water volume you change each week is something that you need to figure out over time. While you might start by changing 25% just because its a nice round number, it could be that a larger or smaller change would be best for your tank.

The nitrate(NO3) tests you perform can help you in narrowing in on the ideal percentage to change. NO3 should usually turn out to be between 5 and 20 ppm -above- whatever your source water ppm is. So if you use tap water as your source water and it has zero ppm nitrate and you are showing 10ppm nitrate(NO3) at your test at the end of the week then your water change percentage is quite good. If your tap water comes in at 10ppm nitrate and your tank tests at 40ppm then you're "adding" 30ppm from the various processes going on in your tank and that's a little high, so even though 40ppm is not a "bad" number for NO3, it still might tell you to perhaps make your water change percentage a little larger, to see if you could get your overall NO3 reading down to 30ppm.

Water changes are really about a lot more than nitrate(NO3) however, they also remove lots of heavy metals and organic substances that you might not want building up in your tank over time (since water that evaporates is pure water, other substances get left behind and build up over time.) So a good nitrate reading would never be an excuse not to do the weekly water change! We all have weekends when we can't do it, but if we understand its importance we'll be anxious to get back to it the next weekend.

~~waterdrop~~
Thanks for the reply! :)

Ok new update.
On Friday I noticed that instead of the all yellow ammonia result I got a bit of greenish tint to it. No where near the .25 mark on the API test but still you could see if it was not completely yellow.
I did a 10 Gallon water change on Saturday and tested today but it still looks the same.
Do I need to change a lot more water?
I am of course holding on buying the elephant nose until I get this fixed.

Thanks all.


PS I am getting a visi-therm heater and Hydor Koralia 1 powerhead this week.

Regards
 
If the reading is under .25 ppm, you will be fine. It should not take long for that slightly greenish reading to go all the way to yellow, as your bacteria colonize a little more.

-FHM
 
If the reading is under .25 ppm, you will be fine. It should not take long for that slightly greenish reading to go all the way to yellow, as your bacteria colonize a little more.

-FHM
Hi again!
Are you familiar with the Fluval 305?
I was reading about it and it seems it has different baskets with types of media.
There is one Ammonia Remover for example that they claim needs to be change from time to time.
Others said to be removed half at a time so I guess they are saying the Ammonia Remover does not have the friendly Bacteria?
Do you think I need to replace that Ammonia Remover...another issue is that this filter seems to be customizable so I am not sure what the previous owner has for media and on what order.
Any recommendations are appreciated. :)

BTW, I had to put a molly that is always being bossed around by the dominant one on a separate mini tank as it has pop eye problem. I bought Malafix and have my fingers crossed.
 
I am not too familiar with that model of filter.

But, like waterdrop has said, the ammonia remover is taking away the ammonia, which is the food source for your bacteria. So take the ammonia remover our, unless you don't have it, and continue of with the cycling process.

-FHM
 
I am not too familiar with that model of filter.

But, like waterdrop has said, the ammonia remover is taking away the ammonia, which is the food source for your bacteria. So take the ammonia remover our, unless you don't have it, and continue of with the cycling process.

-FHM
Ha, good point but if I am not quite yellow yet and I remove that ammonia remover (if it is there) wouldn't that cause a spike that can kill all my fish?
Just checking.
There are other media for my filter...it is just too complicated for me this filter. lol

A side question...can Goldfish eat a Clown Pleco?!
My wife's clown pleco is missing in action and not a single trace if it on her 10 gallon tank with not so many decorations so it is easy to find.
I did a water change on Saturday and did not see it...have been missing for 3 days now.... :unsure:
 
I am not too familiar with that model of filter.

But, like waterdrop has said, the ammonia remover is taking away the ammonia, which is the food source for your bacteria. So take the ammonia remover our, unless you don't have it, and continue of with the cycling process.

-FHM
Ha, good point but if I am not quite yellow yet and I remove that ammonia remover (if it is there) wouldn't that cause a spike that can kill all my fish?
Just checking.
There are other media for my filter...it is just too complicated for me this filter. lol

A side question...can Goldfish eat a Clown Pleco?!
My wife's clown pleco is missing in action and not a single trace if it on her 10 gallon tank with not so many decorations so it is easy to find.
I did a water change on Saturday and did not see it...have been missing for 3 days now.... :unsure:
More than likely, yes, the gold fish can eat other fish.

I would go ahead and remove the ammonia remover as soon as possible. You might have an ammonia spike or you might not. Have to do it and see. It all depends on long t was in there, and the effect it had as well. So, remove it and replace the empty space with some more foam/sponge or something of the sort.

-FHM
 
I am not too familiar with that model of filter.

But, like waterdrop has said, the ammonia remover is taking away the ammonia, which is the food source for your bacteria. So take the ammonia remover our, unless you don't have it, and continue of with the cycling process.

-FHM
Ha, good point but if I am not quite yellow yet and I remove that ammonia remover (if it is there) wouldn't that cause a spike that can kill all my fish?
Just checking.
There are other media for my filter...it is just too complicated for me this filter. lol

A side question...can Goldfish eat a Clown Pleco?!
My wife's clown pleco is missing in action and not a single trace if it on her 10 gallon tank with not so many decorations so it is easy to find.
I did a water change on Saturday and did not see it...have been missing for 3 days now.... :unsure:
More than likely, yes, the gold fish can eat other fish.

I would go ahead and remove the ammonia remover as soon as possible. You might have an ammonia spike or you might not. Have to do it and see. It all depends on long t was in there, and the effect it had as well. So, remove it and replace the empty space with some more foam/sponge or something of the sort.

-FHM
I take it you guys do not use Carbon either correct?
 
That is correct. Activated carbon is only effective for about 3 days in the filter. After which time, the carbon is all used up and is no good and must be replaced. So, to maintain a near 100% effectiveness of carbon, it must be replaced about every 3 days. I just have a bag of it handy, if I ever need to use it for emergencies, say I got some soap in the tank, the carbon can easily be added to my filter to clean the soap out.

-FHM
 
That is correct. Activated carbon is only effective for about 3 days in the filter. After which time, the carbon is all used up and is no good and must be replaced. So, to maintain a near 100% effectiveness of carbon, it must be replaced about every 3 days. I just have a bag of it handy, if I ever need to use it for emergencies, say I got some soap in the tank, the carbon can easily be added to my filter to clean the soap out.

-FHM
I have to check my filters still but I got back home and it was still greenish so since I forgot to add the API zime as instructed on the 1st , 7th and 14th I added it today, tested the Ammonia at night and it was perfectly Yellow.
I am beginning to suspect if I am doing the wrong thing by adding this.
I know it got it back to yellow BUT I read somewhere that using this kind of bottle bacteria actually makes the process harder for the cycle (longer) because the bacteria on the bottle does not live as long as the normal one and some mombo jombo like that.
Anyway, I just wanted to report that Ammo is back to yellow but only because I used the API Zyme.
Regards
 

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