Ammonia poisoning, low oxygen, or something else?

I was only trying to post videos to show the behavior of the fish before and after the water change. In case anyone saw anything concerning that I might be missing. The one fish with the dark spot on it's side had that when she was little and we got her from the pet store.
 
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If nitrite really is as high as the tester shows, the fish should be dead. Can I check - the test bottle is till in date? How do you wash the tubes after doing the tests? Residue left in the tubes can cause false readings.
It says it expires 5/26. I always rinse with scalding hot water and let air dry. I've done the tap twice and it came back zero both times. I don't know why the tank is reading so high.

I might have not shook/banged the nitrates good yesterday either, but I did it twice with the same reading.

Redid all the tests after a 35-40% water change this morning and the nitrates and nitrites both look high now. Can nitrates really climb that high after a water change? Our tap has nitrates, but not that many. Checked again after these ones came back and tap was around 10, higher than it usually is; but I found a water report from 2021 that has a value of 7.95. I used a new test tube that hasn't been in the tank yet, as I kept all the old ones from my expired kit so that shouldn't have affected readings.


This is going on several days now, no way the nitrites can be accurate right? Ammonia is zero or very close to I believe. Could that be affecting the nitrite eating bacteria? It has been an hour since the water change this morning and still no gasping or cloudy water.

I don't know if I should ignore the nitrites or continue to not feed and see if nitrites go down later tonight/tomorrow? Keep doing water changes? I'm at a loss considering the fish seem happy and are no longer struggling.
 

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Please have a read here:
https://www.fishforums.net/threads/rescuing-a-fish-in-cycle-gone-wild-part-il.433778/

It will help you understand better what is likely happening in your tank.
I know how the nitrogen cycle works, that is not what I'm confused about. I have never seen levels this high, even when initally cycling, which was years ago. I do not have any pure water sources so cannot try to figure out the true nitrite levels beyond 5.0ppm that we have.

My fish are not exhibiting signs of either poisoning and my ammonia is back at zero. No idea what is going on with the nitrites or why the fish are acting completely normal despite levels that I believed should kill them. I guess I can dose salt (although I don't know if that is wise without real nitrite levels), but that doesn't help me figure out why the nitrites are so high. Unless it really does come down to I removed them all with my inital cleaning and I'm waiting for the bacteria to build back up. That still begs the question, why are my fish seemingly unaffected? If these are indeed real nitrite levels, should I not expect a reaction from the fish? Can you even lose all of only one kind of bacteria? Ammonia processed rather quickly I would say, but nitrites are not even being affected by multiple water changes. I'm almost wondering if I should get a second opinion test to rule out a faulty nitrite test, despite the whole kit being brand new.

I'll perform another larger water change again today and see what happens. Hopefully the tank is almost recycled. I wasn't questioning the nitrogen cycle, simply why my levels are off the chart, but my fish have zero impacts as far as I can tell; and what exactly the next steps should be now that we likely ruled out low oxygen being the inital cause of gasping. Let the tank work itself out given the fish are okay now, or keep doing larger water changes and stop feeding until new bacteria can catch up.
 
Can you take some tank water to an LFS and ask them to test it for nitrite? If they get the same reading as you that would show yours is accurate.
 
Can you take some tank water to an LFS and ask them to test it for nitrite? If they get the same reading as you that would show yours is accurate.
I do not have any local LFS, but I plan to call the Petco and Petsmart to see if they do tests and what kind they do. I'm hoping one of them does liquid and not strips. I just did a 45ish% water change now. Does this actually look a little lighter or no? I'm driving myself crazy over this.

At this point I must have changed 100% of the water. I have vacuumed the gravel with each change, but there is no poop or dying plant material to be found. I'm hoping faulty test, as I don't know where the nitrites would be coming from anymore, but I feel like this new test is actually a little better.
 

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The fish in the video look fine and appear to be behaving normally.

You need to do a 75-80% water change every day until the ammonia and nitrite levels are down to 0ppm, and the nitrate is less than 20ppm.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine or chloramine before it's added to the tank.
 
The fish in the video look fine and appear to be behaving normally.

You need to do a 75-80% water change every day until the ammonia and nitrite levels are down to 0ppm, and the nitrate is less than 20ppm.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine or chloramine before it's added to the
Ammonia has not spiked again, but I'll keep checking it just to be sure. Nitrates actually looked a lot better after the last water change (around 20). Hopefully nitrites won't take much longer.

I tested the water again just now, roughly 8hrs since the water change and the nitrates are definitely higher than they were (between 40-80 I'd guess) and the nitrites are actually moving in the right direction. Almost looked like it could pass for 1-2ppm. That would make since with the nitrates being double I think. Still baffled how it could have spiked that high, but maybe it's finally correcting. I'll grab another reading in the morning before I do the large water change for a better comparison.

I was planning to remove all my fake plants and turn this tank into a heavily planted tank. I'm a bit worried about any melting that might happen, how long would you let the tank sit at 0 amm/nitrite before adding more plants? Does a week sound sufficent? Would it be better to bring in only a few at a time to help the growing colony keep up?
 
Have you tested your tap water for nitrite? Or if you have bottled water, test that. Bottled water should have zero nitrite and tap water maybe a small amount. If either of those show a high reading like the tank water, my guess would be a faulty tester.
 
Let's talk about nitrite and nitrate and testing for just a bit.

When there is nitrite in the water and insufficient chloride level, the nitrite can get inside the fish. When this happens it prevents the blood from holding oxygen. Once there is no longer any nitrite in the water it takes aout 12 -24 hours for what is in the fish to be gone. In more severe cases it can take longer.

In most cases where there is nitrite in a tank it is a cycling issue. One of the thing to know about this all is that the bacteria in tanks which handle nitrite are Nitrospira. It was discovered that this type of bacteria is actually able to process ammonia straight through to nitrate. So we tend to have both ammonia oxidizers which make nitrite from ammonia and then the nitrospira which can be turning ammonia to nitrate.

Testing for nitrate is a difficult challenge. So the way that hobby test kits work is that they convert nitrate to nitrite and then they measure that. This means when once has nitrite in a tank it will affect the results of a nitrate test.

Now, lets assume that fish in a tank are suffering from nitrite poisoning. Normally it will take some time to build up the bacteria for handling nitrite even as more is being produced. Water changes slow cycling. So they should be avoided as long as possible. How and when to change water depends on two factors, the first is whether fish are present and the second is when ammonia or nitrite levels are too high to encourage the desired strains of bacteria. Too much ammonia or nitrite can stall a cycle.

The bigger problems are when there are fish in the tank as opposed to when we are doing a fishless cycle. As long as there is mnitrite in the water it will act to keep nitrite from entering a fish and doing it's harm. What science does know is that chloride blocks the nitrite from entering the fish. In fact science states that any study of nitrite and fish must include data on chloride levels or else the study is worthless.

What the presence of chloride does is to protect the fish from the nitrite while still allowing the bacteria that will multiply from nitrite being present can still use it. By not changing water for nitrie levlels but protecting the fish with chloride means that the bacteria needed will multiply at the fastest rate they can and that will solve the cause faster.

Just changing water does not do the trick when nitrite is invilved. After you change the water there is still nitrite in the fish. Even if we can get the nitrite level to 0, it will still be about a day for the nitrite to leave ther blood and for it to resume carrying oxygen. Unfortunately, when it comes to ammonia we cannot block it and water changes or detoxifying the ammonia are the only options. The problem with detoxifying when it is a cycling issue slows the cycle as well. This is because the detox converts the ammonia to ammonium whiohc is less toxic. But the bacteria cannot process ammonium with the same efficiency as ammonia. So the bacteria will take longer to reproduce in response to excess ammonia.

Lastly. the signs of nitrate poisoning are similar to those of nitrite. The big difference is that it takes much higher levels of nitrate to cause similar effects. Lower levels of nitrate can cause other forms of harm but are rarely fatal for most fish once they are no longer very young.

Finally, research has shown that when it comes to either ammonia or nitrite, difference fish species are more or less able to handle it before it becomes a real issue. So in a tank with multiple species it is not unreasonable for some to be effected before other show any symptoms. But once levels are high enough and/or for long enough, it will effect them all.

Two last notes re nitrite poisoning. First, does not turn the gills red it turns them brownish. Nitrite poisoning is often called brown blood disease. Second, the amount of salt needed to get the requisite concentration of chloride into the water is pretty low. Most fish can tolerate it. The alternative treatment is much more expensive and is be calcium chloride.

Also, it is difficult to read your test results because it appears as if the light sources is to the right of the card and vile. It is best to have the light source coming from behind you when reading or photographing the results.

edited for spellin and typos
 
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Have you tested your tap water for nitrite? Or if you have bottled water, test that. Bottled water should have zero nitrite and tap water maybe a small amount. If either of those show a high reading like the tank water, my guess would be a faulty tester.
I've tested the tap 3 times all came back clearly zero. The tank must have been super high for whatever reason. Never saw high ammonia (only .25max), but maybe I missed the spike waiting for the tests.

Today's readings look like they are confirming I'm almost out of this. Didn't realize nitrites could drop that fast. I thought they were the slower growing bacteria, but I'm happy to be out of this.
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - .25
Nitrates - 10-20
 
Under optimal conditions the ammonia bacteria can double in about 8 hours while the nitrite ones need more like 12-14. It can take longer as most tanks do not have optimal conditions. It also depends on the specific strain as there are well more than one for each type.

Also, it depends on how much more bacteria is needed at any given time during the cycle. When we start a cycle there is minimal bacteria to start. So if one needed 10 time that much after the first 12 hours you have gone from 10 to 20%. The next time period you go from 20 to 40, then 40 to 80 and then the last jump. But, it can take more like 12 - 15 hours in the average tank. And then there is the question of how much ammonia is being added. The more we add, the longer it takes for a cycle to establish at that ammonia level.

Also, it is possible to have either too much ammonia or nitrite present and this changes everything. If the levels get too high they cause a cycle to stall.

Have a quick read here as it is a pretty decent explanation: https://www.tfhmagazine.com/articles/freshwater/nitrifying-bacteria
 

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