Ammonia Levels

Ammonia certainly can inhibit/ kill Nitrifying bacteria at very high levels but at the levels needed to inhibit/kill bacteria would certainly kill your fish first.
 
 
I would just carry on as normal with regular PWC for the next few weeks.
 
--  stop adding all the bottled chemical things
--- stop cleaning the filter sponges -- your tank is only 6 weeks old you shouldn't need to deep clean anything -- let it establish and mature a little
 
Don't give up because of this Ash, mine kept stalling due to low PH and the test kits were giving all kinds of ammonia readings even though I knew there was none in there.
Having things go wrong or not as expected is why we study more and first hand experience is how we learn and progress in our knowledge and understanding of it all.
 
I all thanks for all your help and advice. I will give it a bit and see what happens

B3cca I just don't want to be harming fish by keeping them in ammonia although they do look happy enough and don't look like they are struggiling in anyway...
 
I think i might have found the case of my ammonia being up, i think one of my plants might be dying
 
STUPID QUESTION ALERT!!!!
 
How would i know if the plant was dead or not? I can upload a pic of it tonight after work if you want to see it but the top bit seems to be going down to the stalk and lost its leaves, Thats wants making me think it has died. 
 
Once again guys and girls thanks for being so patient with this noob ( i will say it so you don't have to lol ;) )
 
scottish_ash said:
How would i know if the plant was dead or not? I can upload a pic of it tonight after work if you want to see it but the top bit seems to be going down to the stalk and lost its leaves, Thats wants making me think it has died. 
 
You'll definitely know when plant leaves or stems are dying.
 
The leaves will sag/wilt and turn brown or start becoming more transparent (as on certain plants like Vallis).
 
There is certainly a difference between healthy leaves and dying leaves.
 
Easy to spot, don't worry. Just remove dead or dying leaves as you see them.
 
Ammonia can and will kill bacteria. the other thing is the amount of ammonia that will harm the bacs we want in a tank will encourage other bacs best suited to high ammonia levels to colonize. These will not thrive under normal tank conditions. This is true for nitrite as well. For tanks these levels on an API kit would be 6.4 ppm for ammonia and 16.4 pp, for nitrite
 
Many tank plants undergo transplant shock and they die back and then they start to grow.  Many such plants are grown emersed which means they have different leaves than when sumbmerged. When planted they go through a process of losing the emersed growth replacing it with submersed growth.
 
scottish_ash said:
So should I leave the plants in just now or take them out the tank?
 
I'd leave the plants in the tank, hopefully they will bounce back once over the initial shock of ammonia and being fully immersed etc.
 
You may lose a few leaves etc, but hopefully they will grow again fairly quickly. There is more benefit to keeping plants in a tank than without imo.
 
Hi again I had my water tested at 2 different LFS today and they are both still showing the ammonia after a week I was told to just keep up the water changes. Is that right?
 
What was the exact ammonia readings from LFS?
 
I am always amazed at how readily folks accept test results as being reliable and accurate. They do this when the results apparently fly in the face of common sense. This appears to be the case here. Let me explain why I say this. The key facts here are in the reports that the OP provided:
 
My ammonia level seems to be sitting at 1 ppm and i can't seem to get it down, i am doing 20% water changes every 2nd day.
 and then
the tank has been set up for a month n a half now, I have 6 neon tetras and 3 panda corys in it, the tank was cycled before i put any fish in.
and then
i cannot seem to get this level down tho, my fish don't seem stressed in anyway they acting normal and eating fine.............
i have been doing water changes for the past 4 days and its not changing the readings at all.
 
Now I am going to ask readers a question. Suppose you have a tank, you can pick what state the tank is in, brand new and needing to be cycled, at some stage of the cycle (likely nearer the end or fully cycled. Now I a want you to do something to any of these tanks including ones which hold fish (remember this is theory here). I want you to devise a method that will produce a reading of 1 ppm of ammonia in any tank you oick every time you test. OnM onday morning its 1 ppm, at dinner monday its the same, and this applies to Tuesday, Wednesday, in fact all week long. Every time you tst the result must be 1 ppm. This is what the OP reports is haopoening in his tank, So all you have to do is come up with a way to make this happen. Oh yes, here comes the really tricky part. You also have to be able to do a water change of decent size and refill the tank with ammonia free tap water and when the tank is refilled, test again and get 1 ppm.
 
I am so confident that nobody without an advanced laboratory, complex testing equipment to monitor ammonia constantly and then a speci system which would react almost instantly you add ammonia or change a % of water to quickly lower levels to hold ammonia at a constant 1 ppm. But in this situation such a system is not in place, in fact most of us could not afford to create such a setup.
 
And this is how I see the current situation. The test results being reported are almost impossible to create having en expensive high tech system, so how in the heck is it possible that nature is creating such a tightly controlled set of readings? Rather than look for the source of ammonia causing the readings, I see them as not being possible in the first place.
 
If the ammonia bacs were dead, ammonia would go much higher, if there are live ammonia bacs, then in the face of more ammonia than they need, they will reporduce and be able to handle more ammonia.
 
If the ammonia reading were real, then the ammonia bacs should catch up but in that process there would be a nitrite reading also.
 
If the ammonia bacs were handling 2 ppm a day and there was a real reading of an excess of 1 pmm, that would imply the daily load is 3ppm. But then the bacteria reproduce to be able to handle 3 ppm a day. So to get a reading of 1 ppm there has to be 4 ppm a day being created. But then the ammonia bacs would reproduce to handle 4 ppm  a day. This means the tank must now have 5 ppm created in a day to keep a 1 ppm reading showing up. What is creating these ever increasing amounts of ammonia?
 
When we start to dissect the implication of what is being reported here, it should be setting off alarm bells because the reported results absolutely defy both science and logic. Despite this folks are willing to accept the test readings as being correct. I am not. Something else is going on here and the one thing I know it is not is a constant reading of 1 ppm of ammonia and 0 for nitrite day after day in a tank the was cycled.
 
Finally, what about the report that the fish all seem fine? I realize that 1 ppm of ammonia at a pH of 7.2  only contains .0104 ppm of the toxic NH3 form of ammonia (assuming 80F temp.) so the fish are pretty safe. But what does this then say about the folks who are clamoring for big water changes? What about those who urge big water changes at .25 or .5 ppm regardless of the amount of NH3 involved? I they are correct, why aren't the fish in distress?But even if I were not correct in this assessment and that amount of ammonia were a threat? Then why are the fish not showing any indication of ammonia poisoning or burns? The only explanation that would make sense is the readings are not real.
 
Oh yes- i have investigated Quick Start, while it doesn't contain the nitrite bacs for the long term colonization in tanks, they will process nitrite before they are replaced with the proper ones. The ammonia bacs listed are nitrosomonas, but the strain/type is not identified, However, these too should still be able to handle ammonia even if they are not the low ammonia loving ones that will persist in established tanks. So the ones the OP added would have had to be dead to have no effect.
 
Given all of the above and it being my take on things, I would be very happy to have somebody explain where my assessment is off and explain how the reported readings could actually happen as reported. I would love to learn from such an explanation as it would teach me how wrong I am in my thinking here. And my take on how the stores get the same readings is that there is something else causing them. Perhaps iron in the water or cloudiness etc. Then there are the other chemicals which have been added as well.
 
I see it as a game of Clue but in an aquatic setting. Somehow I don't think it was Colonel Ammonia, in the filter with the ammonium chloride.............
 
TwoTankAmin said:
I am always amazed at how readily folks accept test results as being reliable and accurate. They do this when the results apparently fly in the face of common sense. This appears to be the case here. Let me explain why I say this. The key facts here are in the reports that the OP provided:
 
My ammonia level seems to be sitting at 1 ppm and i can't seem to get it down, i am doing 20% water changes every 2nd day.
 and then

the tank has been set up for a month n a half now, I have 6 neon tetras and 3 panda corys in it, the tank was cycled before i put any fish in.
and then
i cannot seem to get this level down tho, my fish don't seem stressed in anyway they acting normal and eating fine.............
i have been doing water changes for the past 4 days and its not changing the readings at all.
 
Now I am going to ask readers a question. Suppose you have a tank, you can pick what state the tank is in, brand new and needing to be cycled, at some stage of the cycle (likely nearer the end or fully cycled. Now I a want you to do something to any of these tanks including ones which hold fish (remember this is theory here). I want you to devise a method that will produce a reading of 1 ppm of ammonia in any tank you oick every time you test. OnM onday morning its 1 ppm, at dinner monday its the same, and this applies to Tuesday, Wednesday, in fact all week long. Every time you tst the result must be 1 ppm. This is what the OP reports is haopoening in his tank, So all you have to do is come up with a way to make this happen. Oh yes, here comes the really tricky part. You also have to be able to do a water change of decent size and refill the tank with ammonia free tap water and when the tank is refilled, test again and get 1 ppm.
 
I am so confident that nobody without an advanced laboratory, complex testing equipment to monitor ammonia constantly and then a speci system which would react almost instantly you add ammonia or change a % of water to quickly lower levels to hold ammonia at a constant 1 ppm. But in this situation such a system is not in place, in fact most of us could not afford to create such a setup.
 
And this is how I see the current situation. The test results being reported are almost impossible to create having en expensive high tech system, so how in the heck is it possible that nature is creating such a tightly controlled set of readings? Rather than look for the source of ammonia causing the readings, I see them as not being possible in the first place.
 
If the ammonia bacs were dead, ammonia would go much higher, if there are live ammonia bacs, then in the face of more ammonia than they need, they will reporduce and be able to handle more ammonia.
 
If the ammonia reading were real, then the ammonia bacs should catch up but in that process there would be a nitrite reading also.
 
If the ammonia bacs were handling 2 ppm a day and there was a real reading of an excess of 1 pmm, that would imply the daily load is 3ppm. But then the bacteria reproduce to be able to handle 3 ppm a day. So to get a reading of 1 ppm there has to be 4 ppm a day being created. But then the ammonia bacs would reproduce to handle 4 ppm  a day. This means the tank must now have 5 ppm created in a day to keep a 1 ppm reading showing up. What is creating these ever increasing amounts of ammonia?
 
When we start to dissect the implication of what is being reported here, it should be setting off alarm bells because the reported results absolutely defy both science and logic. Despite this folks are willing to accept the test readings as being correct. I am not. Something else is going on here and the one thing I know it is not is a constant reading of 1 ppm of ammonia and 0 for nitrite day after day in a tank the was cycled.
 
Finally, what about the report that the fish all seem fine? I realize that 1 ppm of ammonia at a pH of 7.2  only contains .0104 ppm of the toxic NH3 form of ammonia (assuming 80F temp.) so the fish are pretty safe. But what does this then say about the folks who are clamoring for big water changes? What about those who urge big water changes at .25 or .5 ppm regardless of the amount of NH3 involved? I they are correct, why aren't the fish in distress?But even if I were not correct in this assessment and that amount of ammonia were a threat? Then why are the fish not showing any indication of ammonia poisoning or burns? The only explanation that would make sense is the readings are not real.
 
Oh yes- i have investigated Quick Start, while it doesn't contain the nitrite bacs for the long term colonization in tanks, they will process nitrite before they are replaced with the proper ones. The ammonia bacs listed are nitrosomonas, but the strain/type is not identified, However, these too should still be able to handle ammonia even if they are not the low ammonia loving ones that will persist in established tanks. So the ones the OP added would have had to be dead to have no effect.
 
Given all of the above and it being my take on things, I would be very happy to have somebody explain where my assessment is off and explain how the reported readings could actually happen as reported. I would love to learn from such an explanation as it would teach me how wrong I am in my thinking here. And my take on how the stores get the same readings is that there is something else causing them. Perhaps iron in the water or cloudiness etc. Then there are the other chemicals which have been added as well.
 
I see it as a game of Clue but in an aquatic setting. Somehow I don't think it was Colonel Ammonia, in the filter with the ammonium chloride.............


 
Jesus now I'm REALLY confused, i don't think this is for me tbh, Thanks for all your help guys n girls but think I'm going to give this all up, as much as i love it i don't really know what I'm doing and going by the above comment it seems like I'm being made out to be a liar... 
 
Once again thanks folks 
 
No you are not being made out a liar. I am saying that the readings are not real and i explained why. I never said anything about you, What I did do was to show why the readings you and the store were getting could not be accurate. that is a far differnt thing than claiming you lied about anything. I have no clue where you got that idea in what I said.
 
I was trying to explain to you and others following this thread that it is a mistake to blindly accept test readings when they do not make sense. I showed this from a variety of perspectives to make it clear exactly why your test results could not be trusted. Again, I never once said you were not to be trusted or you were lying.
 
I will say this one more time for you scottish_ash. You saw exactly what you reported, constant ammonia readings of 1 ppm no matter what you did. This is not in doubt. What is in doubt is the accuracy and reliability of those readings. Hobby test kits are cheap. They have as many problems as they do accuracies, imo. What I am explaining to you is exactly why the readings you are getting cannot be correct. So I suggest you reread what I explained again, even read It a third time if needed. And then if you do not understand any of the specific explanations as to why those readings were inaccurate, I will be happy to answer any questions you have.
 
Do what you wish with that information but please do not accuse me of suggesting you are a liar, it is not true. Read the very first sentence above where it should have been crystal clear that I was making the point that test results cannot always be trusted. I said folks (plural) and they (plural). I was talking about hobbyists in general, hence the plurals.. And then consider the fact of how many peopled replied to your situation without one questioning that the problem might not be ammonia but instead the ammonia test itself. All I did was show why they missed what I believe was the obvious explanation.
 
ok I'm sorry i misread your post i apologize, been a long day at work and obi didn't read it properly again I'm sorry will read over it again in the morning 
 
ok sorry about last night
 
I have done another water test on my tank today and its still showing the same, i also did a test on water straight from the tap and its showing as .25ppm.
 
Why can't i get my tank to drop in ammonia levels? i have done water changes but that doesn't seem to be helping.... i have set up a 2nd tank which is only a 25 ltr one which i am going to cycle and add the fish to from my other tank and restart the big tank. 
 
Is that a good or bad idea? 
 
thanks 
 

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