Algae Eating Bottom Dwellers Like Plecs?

[kirkster]

Hi, I want to get some fish - freshwater -  that will eat most (not all obviously, that would not be possible) of the green algae that grows on the rocks etc.  My tank is four feet long and 90 gallons or so.
 
I hear plecs get too big and I don't want that (I do like them though).  What about bristle-noses?
 
Many thanks

 

[LyraGuppi]

Bristlenoses are big poopers, and I've heard multiple opinions on them. Nerite snails work well, as long as you have fish that won't eat them.

Then again, those aren't fish Maybe otos, if you have peaceful fish.

 

[Akasha72]

how big is your tank and what are it's occupants. As LyraGuppi has said there's various options but you'd need to consider the things she's mentioned first.
 
The Bristlenose plec grows to around 5 inches and are suitable for tanks of around 3ft upwards (in my opinion) Otocinclus are small so are fine for smaller aquariums but they do best in a group but because they are small they need to be kept in a tank with no preditors ... I've heard of angelfish trying to eat oto's which results in the death of both fish as they get stuck in their throats.
As Lyra has also said Nerite snails are great little algae eaters and can be kept in a wide range of aquariums
 
 
EDIT:
 
I've just seen your tank is 4ft - sorry, I missed that. A BN will be fine in a 4ft. Be aware that they can damage natural plants though and they can be little bulldozers aswell. Mine eats my amazon swords and regularily has a sand shifting session - but I love him so I forgive him 

 

[Fishmanic]

I have a BN in my 35 gal tall hex tank and it eats most of the algae and I feed it algae wafers too.  Gets along fine with my harlequin rasboras and skirt tetras

 

[Byron]

No one has yet asked, but what species of algae?  I am going to assume perhaps brush algae (this seems to be the most common "nuisance" algae), and no Bristlenose or oto will eat this, or if they did, it would be very minimal and likely accidental.
 
I'll wait to hear about the algae.
 
Byron.

 

[LyraGuppi]

No one has yet asked, but what species of algae?  I am going to assume perhaps brush algae (this seems to be the most common "nuisance" algae), and no Bristlenose or oto will eat this, or if they did, it would be very minimal and likely accidental.
 
I'll wait to hear about the algae.
 
Byron.

 

  that will eat most (not all obviously, that would not be possible) of the green algae that grows on the rocks etc. 

I suppose a green spot algae?

 

[star4]

If you are having algae problems there are other things to try first before buying a fish to cure the problem. Firstly how long are your lights on for? does any sunlight get on the tank etc,  As Byron said you need to identify they type of algae first.

 

[kirkster]

Hello all and many thanks for the replies.
 
It is not really algae as such, just greenness that develops over the rocks and glass.  It's easy enough to clean the glass but rocks are an issue to keep taking out.  This develops over a period of about a week and starts to look very unsightly. I of course understand that I have to clean the tank but I don't want to be taking out the rocks regularly.  All my plants are plastic ones. Ph is about 8.  I have no idea about my water hardness - I will find out.
 
The tank is not bathed in natural sunlight and in the past I  have had the tank lights on 10 hours but LFS said to cut that back so I now have them on for 8 hours. That has improved things but still not as good as I think it should be.  Should I cut down the tank lights further -  5 or 6 hours maybe?  There is plenty of "incidental" light from lights in other rooms etc that can get to the tank even when the tank lights are off but it is not direct light so I don't think that should be a problem?
 
Thanks, Steve

 

[Akasha72]

not sure what others think but I suspect that a BN will not do well in such a high pH. They are from an area where the pH is on the other end of the scale and I feel that 8 is too high for them.
 
If it was me I'd be looking at nerite snails. Fantastic little algae eaters and they don't breed in the aquarium like other types of snail as the eggs need salt water to hatch

 

[Byron]

Yes, we need to know the GH, but while we're waiting for that... and by the way, you can likely get the GH from your municipal water authority, on their website, or call them.  GH is general hardness, and it would be good to know the KH (carbonate hardness, or Alkalinity) as well.  These are connected to pH.  No need to get test kits, you may never use them again.
 
To the algae.  Algae is perfectly normal and to be expected in an aquarium.  All it needs is light and nutrients, and the fish provide plenty of the latter.  Those of us with live plants try to keep the light and nutrients in balance so the plants use this and algae is at a disadvantage.  Without live plants, algae is going to occur, and this is natural.  Some algae can be attractive, and it does provide a useful purpose similar to plants, namely using nutrients and producing oxygen.  But I agree that too much of it, or the wrong type, is rather ugly and can be a sign of other problems too.
 
Algae is controlled by light and nutrients.  Reducing the light can help, up to a point, and with respect to the nutrients you want to ensure the fish load is suited to the tank/water space, they are3 not overfed, the substrate is vacuumed at every water change, and the water change is regular (no less than once a week, and half the tank volume is advisable).  Algae will still appear as I said, but it should be more under control.  There is no such thing as a tank with no algae (regardless of those photos one sees), as such a tank is not really healthy.
 
On the light, it is best to have a regular period of tank lighting during each 24 hours, along with a period of complete darkness.  This is important for the fish.  It doesn't matter when the "light" period is, and when you are normally home to view the aquarium is best.  A lamp timer is handy to achieve a regular period, and the fish will be better.
 
Another thing is that you do not want to be taking out the rocks and cleaning them.  The surfaces under water develop a biofilm which is essential for many types of bacteria.  This aufwuchs [German for surface growth] will attract algae and microscopic critters that serve as a food source; this is why you can see many fish picking over surfaces.  You don't want to be keeping things so spotlessly clean.  However, not all algae or similar is good.  If one had cyanobacteria for instance, this is not good and needs to be addressed.
 
Here is a site with photos of algae; can you find one that appears to be what you have?
H'm, the site link won't copy over for some reason...??
 
Byron.

 

[DrRob]

Not sure where you were trying to link to Byron, I tend to like the pictures on this one, if it helps.

 

[kirkster]

Wow thank you guys, this forum really does have some very expert contributors!
 
I think I have dust algae and the hair thread algae.
 
My water quality is "slightly hard".  I attach report from water Company (Severn Trent Water to the UK guys on this forum - I am in Nottingham area)
 
Appreciate this thread is going everywhere but another point.  I filled my tank completely full of RO water bought from LFS at £2.50 per 5G.  That cost me about £30 - $50 or so to my US friends. That's a lot of money to be doing very large Water changes - like I sometimes see recommended -  on a regular basis.  I was hopping to have to do only 5 Gallon water changes (with purchased RO water) per week.  Whats your thoughts please expert friends on this?  TBH I see no difference in the Ph from the tap water compared to the RO water.  The place I buy the RO water is just down the road so is in the same water municipality as the report I attach here.
 
Many thanks for your help!
 
 
 

 

[Akasha72]

there are others far better at chemistry than me (my worst subject) but I'd say your water is too hard for a Bristlenose plec. They originate in the Amazon where pH levels can be as low as 4 or 5. The water there is extreemly soft and acidic. To force a BN to live in hard alkaline water would be cruel in my opinion. Really sorry if that's not what you want to hear

 

[Byron]

I agree with Akasha on the soft water, but from the data posted here I would not myself worry.  A GH of 8 dGH is not too bad.  I'd like to see the pH lower though.  But regardless of this, a Bristlenose is not going to eat hair or dust algae (so far as I am aware, I stand to be corrected if in error).
 
Anyway, to your algae.  Are there live plants?  This is important as they can (should) be part of the solution.
 
To the RO water and water changes: I myself would not mess with RO water here, the GH is not that high and you can find a number of "soft" water fish that will be fine.  If you provide some intended fish, we can comment accordingly.  As for water changes, no less than once a week, and the more water the better for the fish (and plants if any).  I do half my tanks weekly.  The volume can depend upon the individual aquarium, as different fish and numbers can impact this, but generally I would advise 1/3 to 1/2 the tank weekly.  If you forget the RO, this shouldn't cause any issues, either for you (cost) or with the water stability.
 
Byron.

Not sure where you were trying to link to Byron, I tend to like the pictures on this one, if it helps.

 
Thanks Rob...I think there is something at my end.  I have been using Chrome as my browser, but yesterday switched back to IE [won't go into the reasons, more computer issues, sigh] and just now with IE I could not "Quote" your post either.  Switched over to Chrome, and it works.  I'll add the algae link here, just to see if that is working too.
http/www.aquaticscape.com/articles/algae.htm
 
[Seems to be, it is showing anyway.]
 
Byron.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

If one gets the common TR bn, they have few issues with pH and hardness on the upside to a point. But you will usually kill them in anything approaching pH 6.0 or below. Talk to some of the folks who keep African cichlids and have such bn in their tanks. But they won't help with hair algae, SAE will for sure. They will also eat bba if you stop feeding a tank. There are other fish who eat hair algae as well, but I cannot remember which ones since I have not kept them. Flagfish do I believe. I think many African rift lake cichlids will as well.
 
http/www.cichlidforums.com/showthread.php?38898-Bristlenose-catfish-good-idea-or-not
 
Soft algae on the glass and rocks will be eaten by bn with relish (not the condiment). There are also shrimp and snails which will help with soft green algae.
 
However, yo know what might work best for you from the alternatives. they need to work with the fish you have. Amano shrimp are champion algae eaters. but when they get some size they will eat fry or even smaller fish it they can get them. Some fish will eat snails. So as you can see, the gang or algae eaters that would be happy in your tanks depends on what else is in there.
 
I leave the plant part of this for Byron to help with as his experience on that front is far greater than mine. We have different MBAs. Mine is Mastered By Algae and his is Man Beats Algae.