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The red eyes and area in the skull between the eyes is an infection, either bacterial or protozoan. If the fish is getting better without medication, then just keep the water clean and hope for the best.
If the fish was in a tank with other fish, then they could also develop the same problem. The best way to reduce the chance of it spreading is to do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate each day for at least one week (preferable two weeks). This will dilute any disease organisms and make the environment better for the remaining fish so their own immune system can deal with it. After a week or two of daily water changes you can do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week.
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"Larger water changes seem like they would be better, however, you can bring on a lot of stress to fish and plants with drastic water changes."
When I did fish rescue with really end of life fish - I never subjected them to the additional stress of such vast water changes. Fish are Osmotic and it causes a great deal of stress in them. I did very small off the bottom (where the gunk is) water drains and slowly over hours dribbled (with air line tubing) heated, filtered PH and all else correct water back in. EVEN slower with sick fish already highly stressed.
And one needn't "clean" the gravel substrate. Either one has healthy plants which take care of many issues or needs only a thin layer of gravel for the biological organisms (bio bugs) which assist the total environment. Stirring this up can create havoc. This is not a kitchen where "scubbing" away helps - it is a delicately balanced bio system where tipping one thing can create a disaster.
IF there is a major infestation (with a parasite for example) then all fish may need to be gently removed to a properly set up aquarium and the tank taken down and started over. The water from the original tank can be filtered (there are many types of filtration material that can take out almost anything) with at least partial old water and slowly add the new water.
Some living plants may be able to be treated but many do not survive the medications - toss and start over.
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So sorry but just asking. Where did you get the advice of 75% water changes (and believe me I go back 55 plus years). Not judging, but fish being osmotic and even minor shifts in water parametours can cause great stress. UNLESS, the water ph, temp, RO and many other factors are exactly the same, and one does it ever so slowly. There is great research that even a .25 shift can cause adrenal/cortisosal stress which means more disease.
Does it "dilute" fish disease organisms? And over doing gravel "washes" just disturbs what hopefully is the bio cultures well establishe in them.
The problem is that many diseases (especially gram negative bacteria) fungus and even parasites are evident in most water systems today (reason why I obtained NYC municipality water reports and aged my water in huge garbage tubs with many filtration systems to remove this and that).
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My knowledge comes from vast research over decades (and in collage as well studying pre oceanography), yet here is a simple search and link to show the dangers of such huge water changes. (my books were either given away or are stored when I moved).
https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/how-to-change-aquarium-water-correctly
Larger water changes seem like they would be better, however, you can bring on a lot of stress to fish and plants with drastic water changes. The goal of changing water is to keep the fish healthy. If doing a large water change causes stress and illness, then it's not completing our goal. You might be thinking, but I don't want to change water every week. Don't worry, you can tune an aquarium to fit your needs.
You can help combat the need for water changes by feeding less, or simply keeping less fish. There is also the option of getting a larger aquarium. When you add more water volume to the same amount of fish, you'll spread the waste out over more water, resulting in fewer parts per million. My last recommendation for combating water changes is to add live plants to your aquarium. As they grow they eat nitrates. Be careful not to fool yourself, most tanks will still need water changes even if you use all these techniques. It's only a matter of how long between the water changes.
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In all of my many aquarium fish raising/ breeding years I never did that sort of rapid and voluminous water change. I always quaranteed all fish for months if need be (many parasites show up only after that time line) and then take out sick fish in a " hospital tank" (the old Dr. Innes books from the 40's are superb.
The best way is to quaranteen any fish in the tank in a "sick tank" set up IF there are notable symptoms. It was most likely a gram negative bacteria (it eventually goes to the arteries and causes inflamation and bleeding along these walls)...