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Advice needed

MsLiia01

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Sydney, Australia
I have a half moon betta that my son has named Nik. Is it ok to place him in his large tank even though i just started the cycle on sunday & it haven't finished cycling yet?

Thank you in advace
 
Need a bit more info, really.

1) Is Nik currently in a cycled tank?
2) How are you cycling the large tank?
3) Are there other fish in the large tank?
 
Need a bit more info, really.

1) Is Nik currently in a cycled tank?
2) How are you cycling the large tank?
3) Are there other fish in the large tank?
1) what exactly does cycled tank mean?
2) yes im cycling the large tank & Nik is inside the large tank aswell
3) no other fish in the tank with Nik
 
OK, just read your other thread, and clearly Nik is not in a cycled tank, and that the temporary tank does not have a heater either.

However, it's still not clear how you are cycling the large tank, but it seems to me as though you are just running an empty tank with no source of ammonia.

If that's the case, get Nik into the large tank, with heater and filter, straight away.
 
Since my last thread I've up graded Nik to his large tank. He has both a filter & a heater but he still tends to stay at the bottom of the tank.

Ammonia? How would i add this. I live in Australia
 
Cycling a tank means growing the beneficial bacteria in the filter which process the ammonia (which fish produce) and consequent nitrite, both of which are highly toxic.

Now the hard work begins.

You need to obtain test kits for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I personally use the Salifert kits, but I know many on here recommend the API liquid test kits. Don't get the paper test strips, they aren't accurate enough.

Test your water every day for those three chemicals. You will start to see ammonia first, followed in a few weeks by nitrite, followed in a few more weeks by an increase in nitrate (most tap water has a certain level of nitrate in it anyway).

When you see ammonia on the test result, change sufficient water to get that level down to under 0.25ppm. So if you saw say 1ppm ammonia, you would need to change 75% of the water.

The same is true of nitrite.

In several months, typically 5-6, you will get to a stage where you don't see any ammonia or nitrite for a week. At that point, your cycle is established.

Do you know anyone else who has an established (cycled) tank? If so, ask to swap some of your filter media (sponges, ceramics, etc) with theirs. You can safely swap around 20% of the filter media and it will not affect the cycle of the established tank.

This will introduce some of the beneficial bacteria to your filter, and will greatly reduce the time taken to establish the cycle.

There are some Bottled Bacteria products available. I have yet to see credible evidence that any of them work, although I have read some encouraging things about Dr Tim's. You can try these if you like, they won't do any harm, but don't be surprised if they make no difference either.
 
Since my last thread I've up graded Nik to his large tank. He has both a filter & a heater but he still tends to stay at the bottom of the tank.

Ammonia? How would i add this. I live in Australia
Nik will produce his own ammonia.

The recommended method for cycling a tank is to use bottled ammonia with no fish, but you can't do that now that Nik is there.
 
Cycling a tank means growing the beneficial bacteria in the filter which process the ammonia (which fish produce) and consequent nitrite, both of which are highly toxic.

Now the hard work begins.

You need to obtain test kits for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I personally use the Salifert kits, but I know many on here recommend the API liquid test kits. Don't get the paper test strips, they aren't accurate enough.

Test your water every day for those three chemicals. You will start to see ammonia first, followed in a few weeks by nitrite, followed in a few more weeks by an increase in nitrate (most tap water has a certain level of nitrate in it anyway).

When you see ammonia on the test result, change sufficient water to get that level down to under 0.25ppm. So if you saw say 1ppm ammonia, you would need to change 75% of the water.

The same is true of nitrite.

In several months, typically 5-6, you will get to a stage where you don't see any ammonia or nitrite for a week. At that point, your cycle is established.

Do you know anyone else who has an established (cycled) tank? If so, ask to swap some of your filter media (sponges, ceramics, etc) with theirs. You can safely swap around 20% of the filter media and it will not affect the cycle of the established tank.

This will introduce some of the beneficial bacteria to your filter, and will greatly reduce the time taken to establish the cycle.

There are some Bottled Bacteria products available. I have yet to see credible evidence that any of them work, although I have read some encouraging things about Dr Tim's. You can try these if you like, they won't do any harm, but don't be surprised if they make no difference either.
No i don't know anyone who has a tank already, that's partly the reason why i choose to do fish keeping as a hobby because its something new to my family & I. So bottled ammonia is my nest option? Ive got the PH tests, it came with my tank but what other tests will i need? You've given me so much information, its great. Thank you so much. But having Nik in the large tank, is that ok for him?
 
How big is this 'large tank'? In gallons. You could tell us the dimension if it's easier so length width and height
 
No i don't know anyone who has a tank already, that's partly the reason why i choose to do fish keeping as a hobby because its something new to my family & I. So bottled ammonia is my nest option? Ive got the PH tests, it came with my tank but what other tests will i need? You've given me so much information, its great. Thank you so much. But having Nik in the large tank, is that ok for him?
No bottled ammonia is NOT the best option anymore - you have fish. Bottled ammonia is for a fishless cycle.

You will need ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits.

A 40l tank is fine for a betta. Make sure the filter flow isn't too harsh, bettas don't like strong currents.
 

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