adding tannins to the water... finding a balance for me, my fish, and function, without destroying the look of the tanks

Magnum Man

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I've posted on this before... this morning's caffeine has my brain wandering in another direction... my last thread on this subject was based around saw dust... with a little searching, it appears wood smoking pellets may be a better option... I'll admit, I didn't go there, as I was concerned about other, ( binding ) components, but most I'm finding are all listed as 100% wood pellets... I think some experimenting is called for, if they will stay together enough, that if filled in a mesh bag, and added to a filter media section, if they wouldn't effectively also harbor beneficial bacteria, while also adding tannins... next question... what woods would be "best"??? I'm finding pellets that are a blend of woods ( for that just right smoky flavor ) there are surely better blends, that would give the fish what they need, without staining the aquarium water so dark, that the fish aren't visible... the use as a beneficial bacteria bed, would be interesting, but may require chips, or small chunks, that would hold their shape longer than pellets would... coincidentally that is the form I use in my smoker, rather than pellets... so I request discussion, on what woods might be best, and if perhaps the resulting ph, would be too low , for wood chunks to be a good media for beneficial bacteria... thoughts???

this is a blended pellet... my concern, is they would degrade and fall apart too quickly, when immersed, and chips or small chunks may be a better option ( I have a wide variety of mesh bags already )
 
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I don't trust "other people's mixes". If it's meant to be burned, how careful are they going to be about minor contaminants? You might do better to find wood yourself.

I picked up riverbank hardwood last year, high and dry wood when I was kayaking, and I was surprised at how few tannins came from the hardwood. It's an unscientific observation, but if I kayak streams are surrounded by hardwood (which is what's safe in tanks), here, they tend to be clear water. The tannin stained waters are in the pines, which we can't use because of resins.

We don't want to use peat, because it is is being dug out quicker than it can replenish itself. I haven't tried coconut coir, although coconut shells have a short burst of tannin release - very short. Alder cones have been useless here.

I have the remnants of a bale of peat I bought 10 years ago before I was aware there was a problem (I'm very close to large peat bogs, with an extraction industry). I use it now, though I won't replenish it.

Sphagnum moss is common around here, but it stains water a pale, urine after far too many beers colour. It reduces water hardness quite a bit though - a different function.

I have considered using leaves, like maple leaves. They powder very quickly, but in a mesh filtration bag, their high tannin content would get out, and their breakdown would be contained. I will probably collect autumn leaves this year to try that, but it's a ways off. We don't even have proper buds yet!

I wonder what a bag of white pine needles would do.
 
a quick www. search of best woods for aquarium use, will get you results from "no wood is safe" to "any cured wood is safe" so there is much misinformation out there... my thoughts, are, it probably depends on your water change volume... lots of "bad" things fall into a river or creek, but become diluted enough that the fish thrive, in nature... throw those same things, into a glass box, with a minimum volume of water exchange, problems may arise... right now, I'm not really trying to breed, but provide as natural an environment as possible.... most fish seem to be thriving... I'll be watching closely for any changes, either good or bad, as I ramp up RO water change volumes ( most of my fish are soft water fish ), but if I settle, for example, on doing 1/3 water changes, 3 times a week ( I probably won't do quite that much ), it's greatly going to change my tank water conditions, I really don't like adding chemicals, so I'll be looking for natural solutions to any changes, that are required...
 
I make wine. On occasion I add tannins to the must during fermentation. You can buy powered tannins or burnt oak wood chips from on line wine and beer making stores. These products are safe for human consumption so also safe for fish.
 
Burnt oak wood chips? Ooh. That has my attention.

You can also do what I do for fast set ups - use a rooibos tea bag.
 
I used Indian Almond Leaf Powder from Green Water Farm. And was surprised how professional that product is.

It list that it's beneficial for discus, betta, gouramies, killies, tetras, angels, dwarf ciclids, rasboras, cories, plecs, shrimps and many more.

The good part (or can also be bad) is, it works extremely fast and potent compared to anything else. So it has to be used gradually with very small quantities.

But the results are controlled at 100%, you don't wake up to an aquarium filled with coffee in the morning.
 
Sorry for the long detailed post. But, you all should know my always doing this by now. I am not trying to hijack the thread, just to help some.

For about a decade I ran a stained tank for Altum Angels. This is the water type in which they live. It is also an extremely low pH in the wild. Sometime is is actually a fw 10ths under 4.0. When I was buying them as recent imports i had the tank set at 4.2 and the TDS between below 30 and above 20 ppm.

My tap is actually about 7.0 and 83 ppm. So, I had to work to get the water stained, the pH down and the TDS as well. So, I needed to get 3 pieces of equiment and then safe things to use to get the water stained and the pH down.

1. A small UV set-up to get the water sterilized for pathogens as wild altums have no natural immunity to most of the pathogens that are normally present at low levels in our tanks. But most of our fish also have better developed immune systems in terms of these while the Altums do not. Once the fish went into the tank I was able to remove the UV after about 2 weeks. This was a safety measure.
2. A digital 3 way continuous monitor for cinductivity.TDS/Temp/pH. I also used this when batching changing water so I could set the paramters to correct for any change over the week in the parameters. It is not possible to use color based test kits when one has stained water.
3. An RO/DI unit to make pure water for the tank. They help in lowering one's pH in a stable way which requires greatly reducing KH levels. Pure water has virtuall no KH.
4. It took more than the RO/DI water to do this. So I have muriatic acid to help lower the pH as needed.

Staining the water is one thing but using botanicals etc. to lower and hold the pH down is another story. Toward this end I used an assortment of thing all of which are clearly appropraiate for tank use:

1. Catappa leaves- thees stain but their abiltiy to manage lower pH in a tank is a bit overstated inmo. It contibutes to lowering but there are better things for this.
2. Alder cones- the also stain nicely but they beat heack ut of almond leaves for getting and holding the pH lower. I put the cones into a bag in the filter not in the tank, I changed them about ever 2-3 weeks when they turned to mush.
3. I was taught by the wild agel site (long gone) experts in the use of Rooibos tea whih is not really a tea but is in the legume family. The only place in the world it grows is S. Africa aned even there is is very fussy, it can thrive on one side of hill but not on the other. Rooibos is a great stained and I brewed it and added that to the water. it also has some very good properties but it will not lower the pH, it may actual raise it by .10. Below is the handout I use when selling Rooibos or giving out samples (this pcictures are not included):

Rooibos Tea
Is beneficial for fish, 100% caffeine and tannin free and you can drink it too.

Will stain water like peat, almond leaves or alder cones and can be used with them.

Will not soften water or lower pH. It is more likely to bump pH up by 0.1.

Can be brewed like tea and poured into the water or can be put into a bag in one’s filter. Once brewed it can be stored refrigerated for about a week.

When brewing, allow it to boil for a bit after the tea is added to the hot water.

It is hard to overdose. Start with 1 teaspoon per 10 gal. (38 L) of water and adjust from there to find the color you like.

Buying Rooibos helps to support the local farmers in South Africa.


Rooibos tea (meaning red bush in Afrikaans and pronounced roy + boss) has nothing to do with traditional tea, which comes from the Chinese plant Camellia sinensis in the family Rosaceae. Rooibos comes from the plant, Aspalathus linearis, a legume in the family Fabaceae- it is related to peas and beans. The bush is more like a broom than a bush. The top of the bush is cut off, dried and oxidized before packing in tea bags or sold as loose tea.

Wikipedia (at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rooibos) states:

“Rooibos is becoming more popular in Western countries, particularly among health-conscious consumers, due to its high level of antioxidants such as aspalathin and nothofagin, its lack of caffeine, and its low tannin levels compared to fully oxidized black tea or unoxidized green tea leaves. Rooibos also contains a number of phenolic compounds, including flavanols, flavones, flavanones, and dihydrochalcones”.

In fish keeping we are interested in the plant phenolic compounds that act as antioxidants and antibacterials (it won’t harm filters). This is similar to the humic acids found in natural tea stained water. Oak leaves contain the plant phenolic quercetin (from the Latin name for oak trees, Quercus robur). Rooibos contains some quercetin plus the compound aspalathin, closely related to quercetin.

Research at the University of Stellenbosch indicates that rooibos has natural stress relieving properties. It is safe to use and is beneficial for both keepers and fish. The "organic" label is unnecessary as rooibos is grown naturally without insecticides and herbicides, they are just simply not needed and can actually harm the plant. Here is an email I got from an Altum keeper:

“Hey Chris, just wanted to let you know that my big bag (almost gone, I guess we are using it more than my altum!) Last night I wrapped some (rooibos) with sphagnum peat moss in a fine mesh bag that my wife made for the purpose and I simply put it in one of the overflow boxes. You gotta see how nice the water and the fish look today.”

4. I have used mostly Maylasian wood in my tanks for a longtime. It releases tannins into the water but this ends with enough time.

So, in your case the first issue is what do you actually need to be doing to your water? If all you want to do is stain but not change the other oparameters then I would use the leaves, Maylasian wood and Rooibos tea. But of you are softening and dropping the pH then you need all the other items above, imo.

I am not inclined to experiment with changing parameters in terms of what I will use. What you are contemplating using I would never even consider.I use wht I know works, what I know is safe and what I know is beneficial for my fish.

I adopted the use of the Rooibos tea because it was recommended by one of the mods on the wild angel site who was a professor of biochemistry at the university above. His field was potato viruses, The tea often grew alongside the potato farms, But he he had colleagues who were working on Rooibos. I bought 18 kilos and if you want some i can send it. I would only ask that you pay for the shipping which can be the cheapest way. I have lots of it left and no longer use it as the Altums are gone.

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If you want to have more info or have Qs about any of the above I am happy to work with you.

edited to fix the typos in the final sentence.
 
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I used Indian Almond Leaf Powder from Green Water Farm. And was surprised how professional that product is.

It list that it's beneficial for discus, betta, gouramies, killies, tetras, angels, dwarf ciclids, rasboras, cories, plecs, shrimps and many more.

The good part (or can also be bad) is, it works extremely fast and potent compared to anything else. So it has to be used gradually with very small quantities.

But the results are controlled at 100%, you don't wake up to an aquarium filled with coffee in the morning.
Thanks for this. I've used this company before, but not heard of this product. Just ordered it. I like tannin stained water regardless of any other potential benefits of the product. Also, I'd be curious on the pH impact. I'm current trying to balance out a rise in pH from terrocota pots with bogwood or mopani wood. My tap water (24 hours after it comes out the tap is about 7.6 pH), but my tanks with Terrocota pots rises to about 8.2 pH but the tanks with terroocota pots plus a fair amount of wood, the pH comes back down to about 7.8
 
With catappa leaves, I put two large ones from JBL into a 100 litre tank and it had zero impact on pH, tested every few days for a couple of weeks.

My kH is about 12 degrees, but bogwood or mopani wood does lower my pH

Sorry, I know the thread is not really about pH
 
I have used terra cotta pots intanks for many years and I have never seen a change in parameters because of them. Something else may be to blame.

As is my practice not to pay retail for things, I bought 1,000 almond leaves in 50 leaf prepacked bags. Over time this also gave me a bunch of small piece which broke off. I could have turned them to powder in a food chopper but ai do not want powder I want the actual leaves. I prefer the extra benefist whole leaves offer for creating food on their surface and creating hiding places for eggs or fry.
 
I have used rooibos tea in blackwater tanks and it looks really good. Readily available as teabags in the UK. Either add boiling water and allow to cool or just put the bag somewhere in the tank. Make sure its not blended with anything else. No need to pay extra for the organic branded stuff - the plant is so sensitive it can't tolerate any pesticides etc
 
Thanks for this. I've used this company before, but not heard of this product. Just ordered it. I like tannin stained water regardless of any other potential benefits of the product. Also, I'd be curious on the pH impact. I'm current trying to balance out a rise in pH from terrocota pots with bogwood or mopani wood. My tap water (24 hours after it comes out the tap is about 7.6 pH), but my tanks with Terrocota pots rises to about 8.2 pH but the tanks with terroocota pots plus a fair amount of wood, the pH comes back down to about 7.8

Yes almond leaves have a very low impact on PH, I use Ro/Di lightly remineralized water and my PH remains on the higher side. But the Almond powder is different. You can give the equivalent of hundreds of leaves at once with that. Really be careful. This stuff is made by World class Thailand Betta breeders and will create black water instantaneously. I was skeptical when I first ordered... But It came and was made in Thailand.

Almond leaves are mostly used to create area for food to develop for the micro fauna.

I never used terracota in aquariums I know they leach calcium carbonates because clay contains it from the base. But the general composition, granularity, glazing the way the clay was fired... Can change a lot of parameters.

But I would tend to think it's a pretty stable product and calcium carbonate trapped inside should take a really long time to leach. but it will and it's not really calculable. The acidity of the water is involved in the speed. With normal water changes, it's out of the horizon as a water chemistry problem.

But Algae loves them for a reason. They give a grip and leach nutrients.
 
Well in my tank with a bunch pf terracotta pots I have a bunch of assassin snails, a bunch of amano shrimp and fairly heavy planting. Some time Ago I had to get SeaChem Equilibrium to add in small amounts because the htings in the tank were clearly using up a number of things which also contribute to hardness. Calcium is used by the snails and shrimp. But calcium carbonate and/or bicarbonate can be used by the nitrifying bacteria and some plants as a carbon source as well.

Maybe the pots ware leeching it and it is being used? But those pots have been in the tank for years. So it is also pothat the leeching declines with time as well? So I went searching for info on using terracotta pots in our tanks and found this on an Australian site:

How Terracotta Pots Can Enhance Your Aquarium or Fish Tank Experience​

https://www.weknowpets.com.au/blogs...enhance-your-aquarium-or-fish-tank-experience

Types of terracotta pots suitable for aquariums
(italics below added by me)
When it comes to choosing terracotta pots for your aquarium, it is important to select ones that are suitable for underwater use. Not all terracotta pots are created equal, and some may contain chemicals or coatings that can be harmful to your fish.
The safest option for aquarium use is to choose unpainted and unglazed terracotta pots. These pots are made from natural clay and do not contain any harmful chemicals or coatings that can leach into the water.

Unpainted and unglazed terracotta pots have a natural, earthy appearance that can blend seamlessly with the aesthetics of your aquarium. They are available in various sizes and shapes, allowing you to create a visually appealing aquascape.
When selecting unpainted and unglazed pots, it is important to ensure that they are specifically labeled as suitable for aquarium use. This ensures that they have been manufactured with aquarium safety in mind and do not pose any risks to your fish.

I never asked re aquarium safe as I bought most of my pots 15 or more years ago from a huge garden center that no longer exists.
 
I imagine they will slowly release as wearing down. But the speed that happens is too slow to have any impact that are negative.
 
Thanks for the above post about the pots. Useful. I've been using terrocota pots as cheap and practical aquascape with cichlids for over 10 years. I am also a water testing geek. All my substrate is JBL very fine gravel, which is marketed as having no influence on water chemistry at all. I have about 6 tanks running at moment. All either just terrocota, or terrocota and wood. The just terrocota tanks are about 8.2 pH and the ones with terrocota plus wood about 7.8

Out of interest. Re tannins. I have a holding tank with a small group of newly purchased amatitlania sajica. Incredibly shy at first. To the point they were huddled up all under the filter for about 48 hours. I am used to this with many cichlids when they are new. I am QT them for while. But I still don't like to see fish in this state of fear. I've got loads of convict cichlid fry, so I put about 20 in with the sajica's as the best available dither fish for the next couple of weeks. They are about 1cm the fry.

Anyway, it worked. The sajica started looking a bit more relaxed within half a day.

Back to the tannins... This tank was just terrorocota pots and broken up larger pots to suit the Sajica's. But I have recently purchased more mopani wood.

Anyway, these convict fry are getting to the size where they are still a way off from being sexually mature (a few months), but old enough to start realizing they don't like their own kind in their personal space much. Yesterday, I could see lots of little sparing matches going on between the convict fry.

This morning I added two bits of significant pieces of mopani wood (relative to tank size). Tonight as I watch the tank, the tannins are already in good affect.... And the convict fry have gone from competing with each other for turf, to all swimming alongside each other like they haven't got a care in the world. Just watched them 20 mins straight. Not one minor disagreement between them. I wonder if the tannins act as some kind of chill pill?
 

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