Adding A Poweder Blue Tang

[1234-fishy-freind]

Hi guys.
I would really like to add a poweder blue tang to my tank. Once I move my tank back into my house, i will be getting another yellow tang or 2 to go with the 4 i already have, since i last one a few weeks back.

I would love a powder blue tang as they are my favorite fish, but what aggresion problems could arrise. As far as im aware, powder blues are much more agressive than yellows so in theory, he will be out numbered by yellows meaning if he choses to attack one, his agression will be spread among the 5/6. And also, since the yellows will already be in the tank, they should already have teritorys.

Of course I will put the poweder blue in quarentine for a couple of weeks first.

Just wonder what you guys think.


josh

 

[kj23502]

ooo good luck. Yellows can be nasty themselves...well that's what I hear anyway.

 

[ben1987]

ive had a bad experience. Seemed ok for a couple of weeks. Then WS wiped out every fish bar him

 

[alexlark]

I have lost 2 tangs in the past to whitespot. Tangs are prone to it, more than other fish. I would highly recommend getting a UV steriliser fitted to your tank. I run mine 24/7 and have never had whitespot in the tank since, and I am the proud owner of a stunning powder blue tang

 

[jtnova13]

yah, pbt are ich magnets (as are other tangs) i'd QT him first. Also i'd add all 3 tangs (2 yellows and pbt) at the same time to spread out new aggression.

 

[ben1987]

I have lost 2 tangs in the past to whitespot. Tangs are prone to it, more than other fish. I would highly recommend getting a UV steriliser fitted to your tank. I run mine 24/7 and have never had whitespot in the tank since, and I am the proud owner of a stunning powder blue tang

UV's arent really the answer to white spot though. Id say you have a realy healthy fish just out of good choice and husbandry on your part. To kill white spot with UV it requires a much longer contact time than most reefers alow, usually people put too much flow through their unit. Not saying it doesnt help but just because you run UV doesnt mean your fish cant get it.

Lifecycle
This parasite has a life cycle that has four stages (figure 1). When the parasite is embedded in the skin of a fish (figure 2) it is called the trophont stage. Here it appears as a distinct white spot about 1-2mm across (around the size of a grain of salt). The parasite has bored inside the tissues of the fish (it is not on the skin’s surface) and is hemispherical in shape and covered with minute cilia (figure 3). The parasite rotates inside the capsule it makes in the fishes skin tissues and, it is said, this movement contributes to irritation the parasite causes and the fish often flick against hard surfaces in an attempt to knock this parasite off. In severe infections this flicking can cause additional damage to the fish’s skin. During this stage the parasite is feeding on the host building up its nutritional reserves ready to break out of the skin and start the next stage of the life cycle as a free living trophont. The free living trophont always exits the host at night and has one goal in life - to find a suitable substrate to encyst into the theront. A suitable substrate can be the sand at the bottom of the tank, detritus in a filter or even the surface of living rock. If it does not find a suitable place to form the cyst within 3-4 hours it usually dies.

After about a week as the tomont about 200 infective theronts will have formed within the tomont. The tomont then ruptures releasing the theronts back into the water column where they seek a host. The theronts are attracted by light and move up the water column looking for a susceptible host to infect. After release the theronts are infective for about 24 hours.

 

[AK77]

Gorgeous fish but, yeah, Ich magnets. I'd put it in a QT for a few weeks to ensure it is parasite free before putting it in the DT. Good luck

 

[1234-fishy-freind]

I do plan on quarentine for at least 2 weeks to make sure he's well and feeding good.

But what I want to know is, can the poweder blue be added to the tank after my other 2 yellows?
Or would it be best to add them all at the same time?

josh

 

[scott133]

Hi josh

i told you that on msn the other night you have to add them at the smae time to stop the aggression

regards scott

 

[1234-fishy-freind]

Ok, cheers.
Going to need to do some planning about how to go about this.

Will let you know how it goes!
Will also post some pictures on my journal after the move and new fish ect


josh

 

[SkiFletch]

Since the YT's are healthy and the only fish in the tank, I might suggest a different course of action. QT the YT's the day before you buy the PBT. Then, add the PBT to the display tank and feed the heck out of it. Feed constantly and variety. PBT's are VORACIOUS eaters in the wild and the primary reason IMO that they do not succeed well in the home aquarium is lack of frequent feedings. I'm talkin 4 times a day MINIMUM. Like 6 if you can. An autofeeder would likely be necessary.

Anyway, if the PBT does well for 2 weeks in your tank and shows no signs of ich, then re-introduce the YT's and see if they get along. While PBT's can be very aggressive, it takes a long while for them to get so. Early on they're very skittish. 3-4 months in though, they'll be the BOSS of the tank

 

[1234-fishy-freind]

Cheers for that bit of info ski

I'll see about more frequent feedings once I have it. It shouldnt be too much of a problem as I am only a 10 minute walk away from my college so I can pop down throughout the day in my free periods.

Would it need to be fed that constantly all the time, or just in the first few weeks? Say if I fed 4-5 times a day for 3 weeks, could it be reduced back down to 3-4 after?



josh

 

[SkiFletch]

You could probably back it down to 3-4 eventually, but I'd really try and feed a lot for that first month for best opportunity for success

 

[1234-fishy-freind]

Ok thanks.
Maybe an auto feeder would be a good idea. I will be able to get 30% off since I work at my lfs now !


josh