soooo, you're recommending a walstad tank approach, which is a well documented and working tank model, however not frequently utilized because most people prefer having more fish than what is considered sustainable in a walstad tank. However, perfectly valid approach, and everything is on a spectrum, so one does not have to ascribe to a "true" walstad tank without reaping benefits of the methodology
Not doing water changes is the holy grail of aquarium keeping, and I'm impressed that you've been able to maintain tanks for years with your approach. However, in order to find the correct elements to get the equilibrium working without a crash, proper understanding of water chemistry needs to be achieved. On one hand, it's a good start to tell new hobbyists to "get a bunch of plants" and hope for the best, but because water parameters etc. are so variable, it is unlikely that such an elementary approach works for everyone across the board, which, then again is ultimately bad fishkeeping because anecdotally this experience works for you, but can not easily be replicated for everyone which is where the crux of the problem lies. I suspect your water may be relatively soft, which gives a large reserve of "space" to allow for mineral/etc buildup. This type of water also has a propensity to turn relatively acidic however, so I would be interested in what your parameters are in your tank water, to learn more about your method.
Have you read Diana Walstad's book?
go for it. We love discourse here, and believe that advancements in the hobby arise from a comprehensive understanding of the science. The scientific method itself is founded in debate, since no theory can gain eminence without attempts to first prove it false.I'd be typing, and quoting various links, for days to cover it all.
please. If you pull the "fifth grade science" line, don't make mistakes like this. water is composed of three ATOMS, which make up one water MOLECULE. And honestly, tank water is made up of a helluva lot more than three molecules. you have your H2O, but you also have your dissolved O2, and you also have your carbonic acid equlibrium (http://ion.chem.usu.edu/~sbialkow/Classes/3650/Carbonate/Carbonic Acid.html) (which, by the way, is a vital equilibrium to maintain humans alive since that is how your body deals with CO2 generated by your tissues), not to mention trace minerals which affect your hardness and nutrient contents of the water.It is 3 molecules.
Not doing water changes is the holy grail of aquarium keeping, and I'm impressed that you've been able to maintain tanks for years with your approach. However, in order to find the correct elements to get the equilibrium working without a crash, proper understanding of water chemistry needs to be achieved. On one hand, it's a good start to tell new hobbyists to "get a bunch of plants" and hope for the best, but because water parameters etc. are so variable, it is unlikely that such an elementary approach works for everyone across the board, which, then again is ultimately bad fishkeeping because anecdotally this experience works for you, but can not easily be replicated for everyone which is where the crux of the problem lies. I suspect your water may be relatively soft, which gives a large reserve of "space" to allow for mineral/etc buildup. This type of water also has a propensity to turn relatively acidic however, so I would be interested in what your parameters are in your tank water, to learn more about your method.
Have you read Diana Walstad's book?