A To Z Of Tropical Fish Diseases

[mrV]

Could you please add references too

 

[Tempestuousfury]

This threads been idle for some time.

What do you want references to?

Mine would be The Manual of Fish Health.

 

[mrV]

What do you want references to?

There can't be any result or treatment without information where they are based on

Same thing when you're writing scientific journals, articals or anything like - every references has to be mentioned, unless they are your own studies (meaning lot of work and proofs etc.).

 

[Tempestuousfury]

No, no. I meant which of the diseases you needed a source for. But, then again, it would be nice to have sources for all of them.

 

[SHANTYMAID]

Trying to find out as much as possible about Dropsy from what i have read this is a killer , but i have gone into the desease section and it does say that it can be treated if its in its early stage. Is this true and if it is what is the treatment?, there are so many conflicting statements regarding all things these days.

 

[puffangel1]

i was on the web sight for the first time and i soo dis covered thru looking at the questions that my pump was not working properly for the past week and i have lost two fish and have just went downstairs and fixed it i hpoe

 

[lilfishie]

i fond this and thought it would be useful for people with guppies

Bloat
When a guppy shows a roughened appearance from the scales standing on end, and it appears to be bloated, it may have an intestinal infection which distends its intestines so greatly that it cannot swim below the surface without great exertion. Some stay in an upright position.
Treatment: Try placing the bloated fish in a solution made of two tablespoonfuls of Epsom salts and two tablespoonfuls of Turk Island salt in a gallon of water. Leave it there for 4-6 hours. Then add another gallon of water and let the fish remain in this weaker solution for twelve hours before returning it to tank.

Saprolegnia
If on the fishes body, a white slimy, flattish patch appears which seems to have replaced a part of the fish's skin, it is probably saprolegnia.
Treatment: Isolate the affected fish and disinfect the net. (1) Add two drops of tincture of metaphen to each gallon of water in the tank to attempt to destroy the organism. Several other treatments of the sick fish are also recommended: (2) Salt treatment, (3) heat treatment, (4) Apply hydrogen peroxide to the spot while holding fish in a damp net. Let it disinfect for 15-30 seconds before returning fish to the aquarium. Be sure to re-disinfect the net. (5) Malachite green, (6) Methyline Blue, (7) Acriflavin.

 

[kwseiders]

My tropical fish seem to be coming down with this "disease", I think. They appear to be healthy, but practically overnight, they are afflicted. The most distinguishing sign is that their mouths are stuck open. They don't appear to have any fungus coming out of their mouths, it is just like their mouth is stuck in the open position. Shortly thereafter, they die. I have had this happen to 2 white clouds, 1 serpae tetra and a cardinal. I thought that perhaps they were getting mouth fungus, but there aren't any filamentous fungus strands coming from their mouths. I don't know if this is a disease, or what. I don't know how to "cure" them, because I have never seen this before. Has anyone else had this happen to them (well, their fish actually)? If you need any additional information, you may have it, I just don't know what else to describe. The rest of the fish in the tank (125 gal., serpaes, neons, black skirts, mollies, pictus cats, white clouds, zebra danios) are all doing fine and eating like pigs. But then all of a sudden, one of the fish is at the surface of the water, with his mouth wide open (like he can't close it) and then within hours he/she is dead. And the pictus seem to be eating them willy nilly, but they aren't getting sick. What to do? Thanks, Ken

 

[denisemendenhall]

What NOT to do for Fin Rot

I'm new at the tropical fish hobby and believe me I'm learning some pretty expensive lessons. If anyone can help me now I'll take any advice.

I had a blue velvet damsel with fin rot and it appeared a few other fish were getting the same problem. I caught this while my husband was out of town with my daughter on vacation.

So, I went to our local pet store and purchased Myacin-Two (which claims to work for fin rot) and used it according to instructions in one of our 55 gallon tanks. BIG MISTAKE!

By the last day of the medication, I saw suffering fish, and did a 50% water change in addition to changing my filters to get rid of the Myacin Two.

I moved some of the fish into the second tank, thinking I was going to try to save some of the fish. I knew I was living rather dangerously here as I have a a snowflake eel in the second tank that is about 14-1/2 inches long. I like to keep him to himself because he likes to nip. He seemed to get a long with the three I put in that managed to survive the Myacin Two ordeal.

I did a couple of water changes which after several changes now means all the medication should be removed, left the tank alone for a few weeks only taking care to control the NO2, NO3, PH, and Temps regularly until I felt it was safe to re-intrduce fish into the tank.

By now, my snowflake eel has killed two of the three lone survivors of the tank that was treated with Myacin Two. Only the Fiji Devil made it and that was more than likely due to it's size.

So, now it has been something like three weeks and my PH is 8.0, my Nitrite is 0.3, Nitrate is 12.5, Salinity is 1.022, temp is 80 degrees and I'm feeling like MAYBE I can introduce some yellow tail damsels into the tank. So, I went to my local store and bought a few good looking ones.

Six hours later, they are dead and my Fiji Devil isn't looking good either.

What the heck am I doing wrong here or what is wrong with the tank?

 

[Vivienne]

Great thread - how about some pictures to help identification too ?

 

[crisycaro]

hi there could someone please help me: 4 of my 12 fish died and i dont know why!

Bacteria are present everywhere on both land and in the water and are normally classified as either 'good' bacteria or 'bad' bacteria. The good bacteria in the aquarium consist of the ones that make up the biological filter. These bacteria break down ammonia and nitrate so that it can be removed from the water. Without good bacteria most life would not be able to exist.
The bad bacteria are often bacteria that are normally present but don't cause problems until the fish is injured, stressed or suffering from another disease. These bad bacteria take advantage of the compromised animal's weakened immune system and reproduce extremely quickly, creating the resultant sicknesses and problems.
The key to dealing with any bacterial infection is early recognition and treatment. Of course, prevention through careful introduction of new fish, plants and water, as well as maintaining a healthy, stress-free environment for your fish, is still the best course of action.
This two-part article will assist you in the identification and treatment of some of the more common bacterial infections in fish.

Fin rot

Signs: Fin rot often begins with red streaks in the fins that are soon followed by abnormal lightening of the edge of the fin and then a fraying or rotting of the fin membrane and edges. This infection can lead to a complete rotting of the fin and can spread to the body and lead to death.


Transmission: The bacteria can be transmitted through the water from open ulcers, feces of infected fish, or through the consumption of infected, dead or dying fish in the tank.

Predisposing factors: This disease is not highly contagious, however it is often associated with poorly kept or dirty tanks with poor water quality. Any dead fish should quickly be removed and disposed of. Diseased live fish should be removed to a treatment tank.

Treatment: The antibiotics kanamycin or erythromycin are sometimes successful. All infected fish should be handled with care to prevent transmission to humans through open wounds or cuts

Skin ulcers
Signs: Ulcers usually show up as raw opened areas on the skin. They often have reddened edges and may be associated with other symptoms of systemic infection or disease.

Cause: Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, Mycobacterium and Vibrio
Transmission: The bacteria are commonly found in the water and will invade a wound or skin injury on an otherwise healthy fish.

Predisposing factors: Previously damaged skin, poor water conditions, and stress can all lead to an increase in ulcers.

Treatment: Antibiotic baths coupled with anti-fungal baths containing phenoxyethanol are the most common treatments. Improving water quality, reducing stress, and decreasing the risk of injury are all very important in reducing the incidence of ulcers.

Vibriosis

Vibriosis is most often found in marine or brackish water fish but can occasionally be found in tropical species as well.

Signs: There are two forms of vibriosis.
Acute Form: Death may occur suddenly, before any signs are noticed. Symptoms may include increased respiration, loss of appetite, lethargy, skin hemorrhages, and death. Post mortem exams may reveal enlarged internal organs, but without a diagnostic test, this disease is difficult to distinguish from other bacterial infections.

Chronic Form: Exophthalmos, ulcers, and intestinal inflammation in fish that have died.

Transmission: Fish contract the bacteria Vibrio anguillarum through open sores or feeding on dead fish that died from the disease.
Treatment: The best treatment includes the oral antibiotics chloramphenicol or furazolidone.

Summary

These are just a few of the most common bacterial infections that can infect fish. After reviewing the list of infections, it is very clear that most bacterial infections are caused by a few similar situations, and that following a few basic precautions can prevent most of these infections. The precautions include maintaining excellent water quality at all times, quickly removing any dead or diseased fish from the tank, treating all diseased fish, never introducing diseased or sick fish into your community tank, and preventing injuries from fighting or unsuitable habitat. If these basic guidelines are followed, bacterial infections will be a very rare occurrence in your tank.

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[trisha1972]

I have learned the hard way how important a QT is. I will soon be setting one up. I think we have dec ided on buying two 10gallon set ups to place below our 55 gallon gourami/livebearer tank. One 10 gallon will be for a nursery tank; the other for the QT. I am now treating my tank AGAIN for ich because my husband just HAD to have a fish at Wal-mart. Brought it home, and the livebearers now all have ich.

 

[3nafs.souls]

has any one heard of a tumor like disease? i didnt see anythign mentioned above.

 

[wendyngd]

Anyone ever have a molly with one eye partially covered by what looked like a white shell of skin? (My female balloon molly) I think she can see though it--Not cloudy--more like type of cataract--but hard==looks like it might even dry up and fall off-hopefully we just did a full water change...but can't find anythng like this listed anywhere!! Any input would be appreciatd!!- wendy

 

[CCFC Monkey]

I successfully treated my Tropical fish aquarium with Parazin P, for Anchor worm. And it worked wonders!

I was advised by waterlife, not to pull the worm out. As it will moult off in time!