A few questions...

[3fsh]

Well, okay, maybe I lied... I have a bunch of questions!

1. I bought a 200 watt heater to put in the ten gallon sump I am setting up, so.... 38g tank + 10g sump = 48 gallons... which means that 200w/48g = 4.17 (rounded) watts per gallon. Is this okay? (BTW- The temperature in my room gets very cold during the winter... low sixties.)

2. I also bought a Rio 1100 Powerhead that says it pumps 300 gallons per hour (up three feet). Is this enough to return the water in the sump to the tank? If not, I bought a "rotating water deflector" to attach to it to provide extra wave-like water circulation in my tank. (About 400g per hour.) (This is aside from the Rio 90, 80g an hour that is going to circulate water through the reef rack.)

3. I also bought a Coralife, 20inch, 28 watt, 50/50 (actinic blue 03 and 10,000K phosphors), full spectrum, compact florescent lamp with aluminum housing and reflector... is this enough to light the 10g? (For macro-algae.)

3. I have 40 lbs of LS, is that enough to cover the bottom of the main tank and the sump?

4. I bought silicone 1 to glue in acrilic dividers for the sump and the reefrack... can I also use this to attach the PVC pipes going to and from my sump? If not, what can I use?

5. The "saltwater guy" at the LFS said that he can get me a 150 watt halide with two (I think) blue actinics and a built in fan and props to keep it off of my tank for $595... is this a good price, or should I look elsewhere?

6. The LFS sells an "upgrade" kit for the prizm skimmer I have which includes an activated carbon container (removeable) and a surface skimmer attachment... should I buy it?

7. I am using Coralife salt right now... is this a good brand... or should I buy a more expensive brand?

8. Should I buy two overflow boxes or have the aquarium drilled at the LFS?


I really want the best for my fish, and I'm trying to do everything right this time, so thanks for all your help!!!!!! More questions to follow....

 

[3fsh]

I hate to have to "bump" this... ) but I need answers a.s.a.p. because I'm going to the LFS and Home Depot either today or tommorow.

 

[jimdogg187]

i'll answer the questions that i can but i don't want to mislead you on the items i'm not sure about.

200 watt heater should be fine. i've got a 250 watt in my 125 gallon. just make sure yu have good water movement around it.

i don't know about your pump. i know you should cylce you tank about 10 times per hour (at least).

the light might be okay. i was advised by my trusted lfs to use no less than 36 watts for macro, but it sounds to me like 28 will be just fine

should be enough live sand. i've got about 40lbs in my 50 gallon and i covers the bottom about 1.5-2 inches. (i want to buy one more bag however),

as long as the silicone is fish safe your okay for the dividers. when some silicone cures, it releases ammonia. when i built the plumming for my tank i used pvc pipe with pvc pipe bonding agents. they are readily availible at home depot. other than that, pick up some tephlon tape to seal any leaks and you will be fine.

halides are expensive as hell. i'm in the process of building a canopy ($40 bucks for wood and parts) and my lfs is selling my 2 150 watt retro kit halides for about $350 bucks. i would do something similar. you'll save some cash for corals and fish!

i don't know anything about prizm skimmers. i use do red sea skimmers on both my tanks but they are the berlin/berlin xl models. they pump out the funky stuff all day long, no ploblems there.

i use coralife, works just fine for me.

drilled tanks are the preferred way. overflows work, but if you by a cheap one they can loose siphon. cpr boxes are run with a small powerhead attached. this power head will keep the siphon going, and if the power shuts off, it will start the siphon again when the power returns. but.. if you can afford to have you tank drilled, go right ahead. it is the better way!

hope this helps a little, jim

 

[Great Lakes]

1. I bought a 200 watt heater to put in the ten gallon sump I am setting up, so.... 38g tank + 10g sump = 48 gallons... which means that 200w/48g = 4.17 (rounded) watts per gallon. Is this okay? (BTW- The temperature in my room gets very cold during the winter... low sixties.)

Your sump volume will fluctuate with evaporation. For this reason alone I recommend a submersible heater, (you didn't specify), and 200 watts should be fine.

2. I also bought a Rio 1100 Powerhead that says it pumps 300 gallons per hour (up three feet). Is this enough to return the water in the sump to the tank? If not, I bought a "rotating water deflector" to attach to it to provide extra wave-like water circulation in my tank. (About 400g per hour.) (This is aside from the Rio 90, 80g an hour that is going to circulate water through the reef rack.)

The 1100 would work, but be marginal. For the extra few bucks, go with a 1700 or 2100 series.

3. I also bought a Coralife, 20inch, 28 watt, 50/50 (actinic blue 03 and 10,000K phosphors), full spectrum, compact florescent lamp with aluminum housing and reflector... is this enough to light the 10g? (For macro-algae.)

Good choice.

4. I bought silicone 1 to glue in acrilic dividers for the sump and the reefrack... can I also use this to attach the PVC pipes going to and from my sump? If not, what can I use?

The proper pvc cement for pipe is only about four bucks and readily available. It is what I use and the only way to do it.

5. The "saltwater guy" at the LFS said that he can get me a 150 watt halide with two (I think) blue actinics and a built in fan and props to keep it off of my tank for $595... is this a good price, or should I look elsewhere?

A little high. Very good choice for a lighting combination though. But I would step it up to a 250 watt halide just for giggles. Look for a deal like this for example.

6. The LFS sells an "upgrade" kit for the prizm skimmer I have which includes an activated carbon container (removeable) and a surface skimmer attachment... should I buy it?

Don't know much about the prizms except I have seen them in action and have not been overly impressed.

7. I am using Coralife salt right now... is this a good brand... or should I buy a more expensive brand?

Ahh...there are more opinions on salt among reefers than there are opinions among men on what makes the perfect woman. But the one concensus that holds true for both seem to be that once you find one, switch at your own peril..

8. Should I buy two overflow boxes or have the aquarium drilled at the LFS?

Drilled, period.
************************************************

A note on siliconing dividers into your sump. Use very sturdy dividers. IF you use sealant to place dividers that are flimsy and flex, they will flex the tank walls of the tank along with them. This will eventually lead to failure of the tank seals.....trust me.... )

GL

 

[3fsh]

Thank you soooo much for all of your help guys! I really appreciate it!

Yes, the heater is completely submersible, has a precision temperature dial, and is "shatterproof".... literally. One of the guys at the LFS said they actually do demonstrations with it by hitting a table with it repeatedly... I decided this would be a good idea, despite the high price (about $30), because I really don't want to take any chances.

I'll go ahead and get the 1700. The only question I have is should I keep the 1100 to circulate the water in the tank?

My dad said I should use pvc glue as well... how long should I let it dry before I run water through the pipes?

I thought $595 was high too. I think I might order a 250 watt halide/actinic duo of the web... there are some for around $400.

I would have bought a different skimmer... but the Prizim has been highly recommended by everyone I've talked to.

LOL... I think I'll stick with the Coralife salt. It seems to be working well enough!

Thanx for the info on the sump dividers... I'll see if I can figure out how to put in some braces to keep them from bending.

 

[3fsh]

One more question ) ... there is a Coralife power compact lighting fixture at the LFS that I'm thinking about buying. It has two 96 watt bulbs (one 10,000k and one actinic) and two LED lights for moonlight... that's about 5.05 watts per gallon. My question is, what corals could I keep with this? I'm debating whether or not it's worth it to buy the halide. I'm a lot busier these days anyway so I don't know if I would have very much time for demanding species of coral.

 

[Great Lakes]

I hate power compacts for primary lighting. They are nothing but algae bloom creators for me.

How long is your tank?

GL

 

[3fsh]

It's 36in long by 12in wide by 20in high.

 

[ostrow]

Reef Central selling forum for lighting! Only way to go! You will certainly find what you need there at a fraction of the cost.

 

[Great Lakes]

Here is what I would do.

Get yourself an Icecap 660 Ballast. This will allow you to run 2, 3, or 4 36" 95 watt bulbs. You can start with 2, then step up to four as you get more corals.

Four 95 watt bulbs over a tank that size would support just about any coral, short of Acros, easily.

GL

 

[3fsh]

Well, I just talked to the guy at the LFS and he said the reason the price he gave me for the halides was so high is because they are "low profile" and the other, cheaper ones are less "sleek". So, looks like I am getting a 150w halide w/2 95w (I believe) actinics. Which means that 150w + 190w = 340w --> 8.95 (rounded) watts per gallon! Woohoo! Thanx for all your help... I will post pictures as soon as it gets set up!

 

[Navarre]

My halides were mega cheap!
I got a 400w halide (New) and it cost me £120 (roughly £180)

These halides are not sleek but they do the trick and once i can find enough energy these lights wont be on view anyway as the hood will hide them.

TO get a set of Halides that are slimline in the 400w range ould have cost me roughly £500 ( $750) !!!! WIth these kinda savings i didnt find the desision very hard to make!