A bunch of ideas for DIY

[superman]

Ok, I am moving to a new house soon, but have been designing the multiple tank waterfall set up that I mentioned in an earlier post. In thinking about how I am going to make this huge set up work, I have designed a DIY chiller, very easily maintained Sump, and a great way to do water changes. This will be a long post, but bare with me and you may like my ideas or be albe to contribute to the ideas or tell me something wrong with my ideas.

This waterfall set up will be around 300 gallons total, maybe more. It will include a 125 gallon, 55 gallon, and a bunch of 20 tall tanks.

This set up will be filtered with one sump that will be housed in a 40 gallon tub.

The tanks will dump into each other via small trickling waterfalls. (if you wish to know more about this, just let me know or shoot me an e-mail.)

The sump pump is an aqualcear 500 power head. The heater for this whole set up will be the 350 watt pro heat II that I did a review on in the Hardware section of this forum.

Now for the DIY part of the post...

I live in Minnesota, and it get's 100+ degrees in the summer sometimes, and the summer is when I sometimes leave town for 3-5 days at a time. And it would save money to have the air conditioning off when I am gone, I would be worried sometimes about the water temp climbing too high.

As you may know, chillers are REALLY expensive. I have devised a cheap way to make your own chiller staying under 150 bucks, EASILY, and in some cases under 50 bucks if you use existing refrigerators or freezers. I have not seen this idea before, but it seems pretty fool proof, let me know what you think!

In this set up you need=

1 small plug in freezer
1 water pump/powerhead ( should move at least 150 gallons per hour)
6 feet of rubber tubing (approximately)
1 thermostat controller with water proof temp probe (can be taken off of old heater or bought online, should cost under $30 dollars) I will try to find one online, but could be found at local electric shop.

Wire the thermostat control inline with water pump/powerhead (this powerhead will not be used for any type of filtration, just as a water pump. You can place this water pump in your sump or in your tank, this would be in the sump in my case. the rubber tubing should be able to fit snuggly over the output of your water pump/powerhead, so think of this in advance before you buy tubing. Drill two holes in the side or door of mini freezer (wherever the coils for the freon are not, be careful! read owners manual! if you don't know for sure don't drill, the door should be fine to drill through) these holes should just barely let the tube in through. Run tube from water pump/powerhead intofreezer, make sure you have slack enough to coil the tube inside the mini freezer a couple times, then run tube back out the other hole you drilled and back into your tank or sump. Use silicon to fill any gaps around the tubing where it goes through the mini freezers walls.
Set the thermostat to come on when the water temp gets into dangerous levels like above 86 degrees.

The thermostat will turn on the powerhead (which should be place below water line) when the temp gets too high, the pump will pump water through the tube (which will be freezing cold because the mini freezer will always be on) through the freezer and back into your tank/sump. This will cool down the water very fast, and the thermostat will turn off the power head as soon as the water is cooled down below the setting.

In my case I have a mini refrigerator in my living room that I will be using that I store pop and beverages for guests in. I never use the extremely small freezer part of the fridge, but there is no way to turn off the freezer part, so it is always on anyways. THis way I won't notice any extra energy consumption (other than the water pump/powerhead). I will be using a penguin 1140 powerhead as the chiller pump.

I will post this DIY and continue...

 

[superman]

The DIY sump in combination with the easy water change method should house 25% as much water as the tank that you will be filtering (ideally). I would recommed not using another tank as your sump, since you may not want to waist a perfectly good tank, and you won't want to worry about potentially breaking glass panels.

I will try to get up a drawing of the sump idea, but i will do my best to describe how it is layed out.

The mechanical filtration=

This will actualy happen outside (just above the sump water line) You will need to make a box out of at least 1 inch thick (pine is fine, no partical board!) wood that has no bottom and no top (NOTE: do not use treated wood for this!!). Plastic paneling would actually be better to use, but to some it is unavailable. Depending on the size of your sump I would make this box not quite as wide as your sump, and 1 quarter the length of your sump. I would only make the box about 10 inches tall. Put fine mesh screen across the bottom opening of this box you have made and fasten it very well with nails or staples to edges of box. Fill the box within 2 inches of edge of box with your choice of gravel, I will use white gravel so I can tell when the gravel is dirty and needs to be cleaned. After doing this put the same screen over the top of the box, and secure just as tightly as the underside screen. Now fasten 2 pieces of wood (at least as thick or thicker than the wood you used to make the box) parralel along the underside of the box that are long enough to make the box sit on the edges of the tub you are going to use as your sump. Your water coming from your tank will be trickling throught the top of this box, and down through the gravel. When the gravel is full of debris, simply take out box (since it isn't fastened to the sump) Shake thoroughly cleaning with water in sink or with hose, put the box back on top of sump ready to filter again! that was the hardest part of the whole sump (in my opinion)

Biological filtration=

Calculate how many bioballs you need to fill roughly 2/3 of your sump. These will fill the first 2/3 of your sump (thinking horizontally, not vertically) build a wall that divides your tank into 2/3 but drill multiple holes (smaller than a bio ball can fit in0 along the bottom 1/4 of the wall. The seal where the wall meets the wall of the sump should be sealed with silicon, so make sure your measurements for building the wall are precise so that you don't have to use a ton of silicon.

I will continue this DIY in about 2 hours, I have another class now.

 

[EddieW]

Sounds very interesting - I am eager for the next parts...

The only problem I can see with the chiller set up is if the temp stays below the temp necessary to activate the chiller pump for some time. Would the water remaining in the rubber tube not freeze and therefore not allow water through? Or even worse the tube could split and then when the pump goes on end up pumping loads of water into the fridge.....

Just a thought....

Cheers, Eddie

 

[superman]

Good point, but if the freezer is higher than the pump, as soon as the pump shut off then the water in the tube would get siphoned out, correct? Either way if there is water left just standing in the tube inside the freezer that would be a bad thing, and when setting it up you may not be able to coil the tube inside the freezer if after a few test runs there is water left standing in the freezer. And as far as the tube splitting, that COULD be a problem, and testing the idea out would be the only way to see if it would happen, but I wouldn't be worried about it.

By the way Eddie W I appreciate your feedback, I hope that there are other people interested in my DIY ideas. The chiller idea is not only valuable to me in a warm climate but would also be of interest in a tank set up with bright lighting like a heavily planted tank.

 

[superman]

Sump continued...

Chemical filtration, water pump, and heater=

The last third of the sump will be where you have your pump. I would use a pump that have variable pumping speeds, so that you can fine tune how fast you are turning you are filtering your water and moving water in the tank. How you place the pump in this last third of the tank is really up to you, but I would make sure that it is at the bottom of the sump, so when you have evaporation your pump isn't left high and dry unless you let your whole sump go dry.

I would put the heater in the sump because there is a lot of water circulation AND it is out of sight.

There should be enough room in the same chamber as your pump and heater to put bags of Carbon or zeolite for chemical filtration.

No you are wondering how one pump can get water to the aquarium and from the aquarium without risking a syphoning action if the power goes out.

The one modification to the tank that needs to be done is to build up the rim of the tank about 2 inches with either wood or plastic (come on, get creative) This rim needs to be water tight except for a one hole that you use as your water output tube. Use screws if using wood, an aquarium safe glue to keep joints together, silicone should be used to adhere this rim extension to existing aquarium rim. What will happen is you will be pumping water into the tank, and it will overflow out the hole that the output tube is connected to. NOTE: This outlet tube should be roughly twice the size of the input tube coming from the sump, this is to combat a water pump that pumps water faster than a tube of the sam kind can let overflow out of the tank. You will need to put a screenover the output tube whole that will keep small fish from finding there way out, use screen that has the largest holes that your smallest fish can't get out of, this screen is NOT for filtering purposes, but for fish safety reasons.

Misc. Notes. Your tube that comes form the sump should go into the aquarium and down into the aquarium, so you are not dumping water at the surface of the water in the aquarium but near the bottom, this will keep you from leaving water unfiltered at the bottom of the tank.
The output tube should be kept as straight as possible, this will keep most of the larger debris from getting caught in the tube.

Now for the easy water change idea...

 

[superman]

This idea is fairly simple

If your aquarium is approximately 20 feet from a sink or other water source this idea will work. NOTE: This idea is used in conjunction with the DIY sump.

What you need to do is make the tube that comes for the sump pump long enough to reach the sink/water source. when not in use you can coil it up (in the cabinet or wherever you are hiding your sump out of sight.) You will also need to go to the hardware store and purchase an adapter that adapts your sink/water source faucet to your sump output tube size(some are threaded or you can devise your own.)

Step 1
turn sump pump off along with heater

Step 2
disconnect water input tube from aquarium

Step 3
uncoil tube to reach to the sink

Step 4
turn pump all the way to highest output speed and turn on

Step 5
let the sump get nearly emptied, remember that water pumps should not be run dry, they will overheat. Turn the pump off.

Step 6
Put water treatment in sump

Step 7
attach the same tube to the sink using adapter, turn sink on.

Step 8
fill up sump to desired level.

Step 9
Turn heater on
NOTE: This is where having a heater in the sump is GREAT, because you can get the water to the same temp as the aquarium BEFORE you even turn the pump back on to continue water circulation and filtration.

Step 10
attach tube back to the aquarium and turn on the pump as soon as the water in the sump is to the desired temp.

My long winded DIY ideas are now done, I am eager to get your feedback, I appreciate any contributions, I hope that I have at least made some of you guys start to think about DIY applications, because we can all save money in the long run. Thanks for your time.

 

[superman]

I will try to make a decipherable diagram and get it up on the picture part of the forum soon.

 

[Doohic722]

too bad I dont have a sump

sounds like a fine idea.. awsome

 

[sgtbirch]

Superman, On the chiller a couple of problems. first as eddie pointed out water freezing in the tube. If i am understanding this right your power head would push the water up an incline to the freezer thought the coils then back down to the sump. freezing is an issue. unless you have a fridge that opperates at 33 F . I know mine does but it fairly new and expensive. The water would not siphon out because both the in and the out are at the same height. besides if it siphoned water would be circulating through the tubes at all times. considering you powerhead is similar to mine and alowys water to flow through freely. I believe there is a way to allow the water to siphon but I would have to think about it. I think a small one way valve may do it I would just have to think about it a little more. I'll get back to you. Also say your tube is about 2 cm(oner 3/4 in.) in diameter and 2M (6ft)in lenth just in the freezer part hold less than a quart of water. if your power head was pushing 1140 gallons per hour that means your pushing 1.2 quarts of water thru per sec on the other hand with a 150 powerhead your pushing through a quart every 6 secs giving it time to cool just a bit. but the plus I guess is your sending you whole volume of water through the coolr 4 times and hour. These are just stats you can use. I am not saying it wont work. In fact I dont know, it may work great. But to be on the safe side I would add as much coil as I could fit and put the thermo a little lower in oredr for the cooler to catch up. Man I hope this didnt come off the wrong way I am just trying to help you with what little I can. I think the small setup would work beautifully with wa single tank say up to 100 gallons I just think you setup demands alot.

 

[sgtbirch]

Excellent job on the sump. I have a couple of ideas to add first most of the items in the sump can be made with plexiglass normally avail. at the home depot and scews and silicone and they will last a bit longer and not mildew as will wood. Or as stated plastic paneling the same idea. the extension of the tank makes me a little nervous especially with my luck. My idea is in one corner of the tankyou could build a tiny corner box (2 sides will be the DIY and 2 sides will be the tank)outta plexiglass(yes I love plexiglass) The 2 sides you install should be about 2 inches below the top of the tank or better yet go to the top but have slots at the top 2 inches to allow water flow. All this has to be done in a dry tank!! your siphon tube will be put in this box. The watter will pass through the slots or over the top into the box where your siphon tube takes the water to the sump. In case a power outage the siphon only takes the water that can flow over the slots then quits. Hopefully you planned that your sump could handle the overflow.
There is a design flaw with this setup though. If the power comes back on and you havent benn able to shut off your pump and then kicks back on your siphon has lost its suction and your sump will go dry . I have read articles about some people getting a hole drilled in the tank for this. But I dont think many recommendit. Oh yeah and the pump tube should come in at the opposite end of the tank at the bottom. Now I'm not so sure it was that good of an idea. Plus you have to be really careful about making a balance in the siphon hose and the pump.

 

[superman]

In response to the chiller comments...

I think that if I don't coil the tube inside the freezer and just loop it inside, and make the input hole that goes into the freezer higher than the output hole, this would take care of water being left sitting in the freezer after the powerhead turns off. I think that an 1140 would still be a good pump in MY application because it will have to pump that water 3 feet up and about 6 feet of horizontal water travel, so I think that with all the water it will have to push it won't be pumping to fast and may still be a good choice. If it is still too powerfull I have an adjustable aquaclear powerhead laying around that I could use.

In response to sump comments...

Poweroutages are why I chose to build up the edge ot the aquarium in this DIY because even if the power does go out this system will be fine. You are right that it will be better to use plexi or plastic for the sump parts, I will see what I can find. Thanks for the comments!

 

[sgtbirch]

SuperMan,
love the name by the way

The water wont leave the tube in the freezer cause there is no air to replace the water in the line. Think about it this way. In order for the water to drain out odf the tubing there has to be something to replace the water in the line (air or more water) this is how the gravel vacuum works. there is another example if your vacuuming out your tank and you put your hand over the vacuum. the water stops and stays in the tubing until you let go or pull the other end out of the water. try it and you'll see what I mean.

I knew that was the reason for you building up the sides of your tank. I just wouldnt trust that my handi work would be waterproof thats all.

steve

 

[Great Lakes]

To house your filter media, try a 5gal plastic bucket. You can fasten your return line right into the center of the lid.

For your sump, 40 gallons is way too small IMO. Evap will be great for this many gallons, and your sump will quickly run dry.

Got some good ideas for you but have to run. Will check back in a bit though to give more ideas.

 

[superman]

The water wont leave the tube in the freezer cause there is no air to replace the water in the line. Think about it this way. In order for the water to drain out odf the tubing there has to be something to replace the water in the line (air or more water) this is how the gravel vacuum works. there is another example if your vacuuming out your tank and you put your hand over the vacuum. the water stops and stays in the tubing until you let go or pull the other end out of the water. try it and you'll see what I mean.

If the input (the water going back to the sump from the freezer is just above the water line of the sump, then this would work, right? This would let air replace the water in the tube, and keep the tubing clear of frozen water if I am picturing this correctly.

Great Lakes, you have a good point, I will need ideas on hot to combat this, other than the obvious like putting a cover over the sump to make for a little less evaporation, but now you got me back into brain storm mode...I will need help with this problem.

 

[sgtbirch]

yes I am not sure why i thought the input hose would be below the water line there is no need I can see for it to be that low. Yes that solves the problem perfectly as long as the incoming to the freezer is higher than the outgoing.
Sorry the setup is sound!
(thinking to myself"why so dumb." why did you think that)

By the way superman. Great thread i thing the DIY section is way under utilized. I will bemaking my own sump within the next couple of weeks also. So I think we should nail this DIY sump down solid. I think between all the info that you have given and a couple of Ideas makes for a successful sump.