55 gallon with Angelfish, Cories, and Rummy-noses?

[Spen2cer]

I am soon going to get a 55 gallon, with plans of 2 Angelfish, 10-15 rummy-nose tetras, and 6 panda cories. Is there anything else I should add, or would that be the optimal stocking? I am planning on getting the Finnex Planted+ 24/7, so any cool plant/ scaping suggestions would be awesome! Thanks!

 

[Munroco]

I think that combo would look good, but you could put a lot more fish than that in your tank once its established. I've been running mine with 2 pairs of angels, about 20 corries and a lot of tetras. I wouldn't necessarilly advise having 4 mature angels though as at times it can get quite rough. (I was lucky enough to get two pairs). But if your tank is well planted with broken lines of sight it can work.

You might want to buy a few smaller angels, wait until you see two of them pair up, then take the others back to the LFS. You will have more chance of getting a pair that way.

 

[Spen2cer]

I think that combo would look good, but you could put a lot more fish than that in your tank once its established. I've been running mine with 2 pairs of angels, about 20 corries and a lot of tetras. I wouldn't necessarilly advise having 4 mature angels though as at times it can get quite rough. (I was lucky enough to get two pairs). But if your tank is well planted with broken lines of sight it can work.

You might want to buy a few smaller angels, wait until you see two of them pair up, then take the others back to the LFS. You will have more chance of getting a pair that way.

I have a 29 that I can put 1 in if the pairs don't end up working. I'm going to try to slightly understock the tank at the start, possibly adding in more tetras or cories as I go along. Planted was the way I was thinking. I think I will get 3 angels, and 1 will go in the 29 if they don't end up mating. Thanks!

 

[seangee]

Planted was the way I was thinking.

Angels need to choose their own mates. Unless you have a known bonded pair you will end up with a single angel (if you are lucky) once the strongest has killed the other two. A male and female that has not bonded will still mate - but eventually one will still kill the other. This is why @Munroco suggested buying a group of small ones - usually 5-6. When 2 of them have clearly paired up take the rest back. You may have to negotiate this up front with the shop but reputable shops "should" know that this is the only way to do it.

 

[Byron]

Agreed. Angelfish are a shoaling species. They develop an hierarchy within the group. In any group less than five, it is almost a certainty that there will be trouble leading to stressed then dead fish. The only way two will work in any tank is if they are male/female and have bonded, and to do this they must select each other from a large group and pair off.

 

[Spen2cer]

Agreed. Angelfish are a shoaling species. They develop an hierarchy within the group. In any group less than five, it is almost a certainty that there will be trouble leading to stressed then dead fish. The only way two will work in any tank is if they are male/female and have bonded, and to do this they must select each other from a large group and pair off.

What would you suggest as an alternative to Angelfish?

 

[Byron]

What would you suggest as an alternative to Angelfish?

I would like to first know the water parameters, namely the GH and pH. And is this the 4-foot 55g?

 

[Spen2cer]

I would like to first know the water parameters, namely the GH and pH. And is this the 4-foot 55g?

This will be a 4 ft 55 gal, and the tank hasn't been set up yet. From the tests I ran, my pH is 7.5

 

[Byron]

This is a 4 ft 55 gal, and the tank hasn't been set up yet. From the tests I ran, my pH is 7.5

The GH is the more important of the two, and the pH tends to follow the GH. You may be able to track down the GH from your water authority, on their website. GH is not going to change much if at all unless it is targeted so once you know the source water GH that should do you.

 

[Spen2cer]

The GH is the more important of the two, and the pH tends to follow the GH. You may be able to track down the GH from your water authority, on their website. GH is not going to change much if at all unless it is targeted so once you know the source water GH that should do you.

Would it just be under hardness? What is a good GH? Never tested for it

 

[Byron]

Would it just be under hardness? What is a good GH? Never tested for it

It could be termed general hardness or total hardness. Each species of freshwater fish has evolved to function in very specific water, and GH is the most important parameter. Hard water species must have a certain level of calcium/magnesium (the GH) in the water in order for their internal processes to function properly, while soft water species need less or no mineral. Soft water species kept in hard water will assimilate the calcium from the water which continually enters the fish via osmosis, and this slowly blocks the kidneys causing stress, slow degeneration and premature death. The extent/degree to which these responses occur depends upon the GH of the water and the species. Some are basically intolerant of water outside their preferred range, while some can adapt/manage to some degree, depending upon the level.

 

[Spen2cer]

It could be termed general hardness or total hardness. Each species of freshwater fish has evolved to function in very specific water, and GH is the most important parameter. Hard water species must have a certain level of calcium/magnesium (the GH) in the water in order for their internal processes to function properly, while soft water species need less or no mineral. Soft water species kept in hard water will assimilate the calcium from the water which continually enters the fish via osmosis, and this slowly blocks the kidneys causing stress, slow degeneration and premature death. The extent/degree to which these responses occur depends upon the GH of the water and the species. Some are basically intolerant of water outside their preferred range, while some can adapt/manage to some degree, depending upon the level.

Here's what their website says,
"How hard is my water?
As is common with water in this region... water is considered hard due to the natural levels of the minerals calcium and magnesium. The water hardness, expressed as calcium carbonate, typically ranges from around 200 to 350 milligrams per liter or parts per million (ppm). This equates to 12 to 20 grains per gallon"

 

[Essjay]

200 to 350 ppm (which converts to 11 to 19.5 dH) is quite a range. You need to pin it down further. If the website does not give a specific figure for your location, rather than the whole area, you could phone/email them. Or take some tap water to an LFS and ask them to test it for GH. You need a number from them, not a vague word. But be wary if they test with strips as some do not read any higher than 180 ppm.

 

[Spen2cer]

200 to 350 ppm (which converts to 11 to 19.5 dH) is quite a range. You need to pin it down further. If the website does not give a specific figure for your location, rather than the whole area, you could phone/email them. Or take some tap water to an LFS and ask them to test it for GH. You need a number from them, not a vague word. But be wary if they test with strips as some do not read any higher than 180 ppm.

Ok. I will do that!

 

[Spen2cer]

200 to 350 ppm (which converts to 11 to 19.5 dH) is quite a range. You need to pin it down further. If the website does not give a specific figure for your location, rather than the whole area, you could phone/email them. Or take some tap water to an LFS and ask them to test it for GH. You need a number from them, not a vague word. But be wary if they test with strips as some do not read any higher than 180 ppm.

Should I get a GH and KH kit from the pet store? My LFS isn't very close, and at home would probably be the easiest. API has a GH and KH. Should I try that?