55 Gallon Planted Stock

[Freddy Robins]

Hey all, so I have recently finished setting up my 55 Galon planted (Ferts, and Root Tabs) and was considering stocking options. I would primarily love to do emperor tetras, and some other fish. I would love to add an angelfish and some gourami of some kind (if possible) to tank and maybe some bottom dwellers. All advice is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Byron]

One factor that must be considered when setting up a community aquarium is the activity level of each species. Sedate fish (angelfish, gourami) do not appreciate active swimmers; fish buzzing around them can cause significant stress which then leads to other problems. Emperor Tetras are rather active. There are quieter shoaling tetras if sedate fish is the end result, or alternative go with the Emperors and select similarly-active fish.

Most of us on here like to know the water parameters before suggesting fish species, as some have clear preferences. Parameters refers to the hardness (GH and KH) and pH, as well as temperature but the latter you can deal with via the heater(s). But it is worth noting that not all "tropical" fish have the same temperature requirements so this needs to be kept in mind as well as activity levels when considering fish.

Knowing the substrate material may help us too; sand opens up more options than gravel would, when it comes to substrate fish.

It would also help to know the tank dimensions; a standard 4-foot (120 cm) 55 gallon tank is a different matter than a more vertical cube type 55g when it comes to selecting fish.

 

[Freddy Robins]

One factor that must be considered when setting up a community aquarium is the activity level of each species. Sedate fish (angelfish, gourami) do not appreciate active swimmers; fish buzzing around them can cause significant stress which then leads to other problems. Emperor Tetras are rather active. There are quieter shoaling tetras if sedate fish is the end result, or alternative go with the Emperors and select similarly-active fish.

Most of us on here like to know the water parameters before suggesting fish species, as some have clear preferences. Parameters refers to the hardness (GH and KH) and pH, as well as temperature but the latter you can deal with via the heater(s). But it is worth noting that not all "tropical" fish have the same temperature requirements so this needs to be kept in mind as well as activity levels when considering fish.

Knowing the substrate material may help us too; sand opens up more options than gravel would, when it comes to substrate fish.

It would also help to know the tank dimensions; a standard 4-foot (120 cm) 55 gallon tank is a different matter than a more vertical cube type 55g when it comes to selecting fish.

I definetly want to add the emperor tetras, and would like to know what kind of tank mates would work. It is a standard 55 Gallon. My parameters are ph: 7.6 GH: 140 ppm KH: 170 ppm. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Byron]

I definetly want to add the emperor tetras, and would like to know what kind of tank mates would work. It is a standard 55 Gallon. My parameters are ph: 7.6 GH: 140 ppm KH: 170 ppm. Thanks for the advice!

You're welcome.

A GH of 140 ppm (roughly 8 dGH for those like me who prefer smaller numbers, lol) is on the soft side, so you have lots of options. Staying with the Emperor Tetras, I would recommend a group of 12 here. This fish sometimes get a bit nippy of fins (another reason to avoid sedate fish that are obvious targets) but this number should avoid problems.

For the upper level (surface and immediately below) you could go with one of the larger hatchetfish species in a group of 10-12 or so. The silver species in the genera Gasteropelecus and Thoracocharax will work better here. T. stellatus is a beauty, and in a group will provide some nice interactive behaviours. Another near-surface fish is the Penguin Tetra, Thayeria boehlkei; this is the most commonly-seen species in the hobby (there are three similarly-patterned species, with T. obliqua being the "true" Penguin). All three species swim in a head-up position at 45 degrees, remaining close to the surface among vegetation, preying on insects that fall onto the water. Floating plants would benefit; actually, floating plants benefit all these forest fish and I would not have a tank without them.

Mid-level there are so many options one doesn't know where to begin, so I won't. But many of the tetras will present themselves. A group of 9-15 of each species depending upon the species.

I still need to know the substrate material, but if sand the cories in a group of 12-15 are often selected as they are very peaceful and provide some interest at the lower level.

 

[Metalhead88]

How about some rams?

And as byron said, if you get sand.... corries are some of the coolest fish around. I think every decent sized community tank should have them.

 

[Freddy Robins]

You're welcome.

A GH of 140 ppm (roughly 8 dGH for those like me who prefer smaller numbers, lol) is on the soft side, so you have lots of options. Staying with the Emperor Tetras, I would recommend a group of 12 here. This fish sometimes get a bit nippy of fins (another reason to avoid sedate fish that are obvious targets) but this number should avoid problems.

For the upper level (surface and immediately below) you could go with one of the larger hatchetfish species in a group of 10-12 or so. The silver species in the genera Gasteropelecus and Thoracocharax will work better here. T. stellatus is a beauty, and in a group will provide some nice interactive behaviours. Another near-surface fish is the Penguin Tetra, Thayeria boehlkei; this is the most commonly-seen species in the hobby (there are three similarly-patterned species, with T. obliqua being the "true" Penguin). All three species swim in a head-up position at 45 degrees, remaining close to the surface among vegetation, preying on insects that fall onto the water. Floating plants would benefit; actually, floating plants benefit all these forest fish and I would not have a tank without them.

Mid-level there are so many options one doesn't know where to begin, so I won't. But many of the tetras will present themselves. A group of 9-15 of each species depending upon the species.

I still need to know the substrate material, but if sand the cories in a group of 12-15 are often selected as they are very peaceful and provide some interest at the lower level.

So I wasn't planning on getting floating plants, would any of those species work well without them? I would love to do a school of either black neon tetras or serpae tetras as well as a pair of apistos, would any of that work? Also I think I definetly will go with a school of Cory's for the bottom, since I am using Black Diamond Blasting Sand.

 

[Byron]

So I wasn't planning on getting floating plants, would any of those species work well without them? I would love to do a school of either black neon tetras or serpae tetras as well as a pair of apistos, would any of that work? Also I think I definetly will go with a school of Cory's for the bottom, since I am using Black Diamond Blasting Sand.

Floating plants really do improve all forest fish tanks; the fish (with some exceptions) can manage without, but I prefer providing the best for fish so I tend to advise accordingly. As an example, the Emperor Tetras will always be more settled and brighter coloured with some floating vegetation as opposed to an open "ceiling" because of the light. This holds for most characins.

Apistogramma could work, but not with Serpae Tetra. This tetra is notorious as a fin nipper, and needs a group of 12-15 to (hopefully) confine this within the species. All cichlids are sedate fish.

Would you consider changing the blasting sand? This is a sharp sand, intended to be that way because of its purpose. Play sand is the only industrial sand safe for fish. The aquarium type sands are also safe but much more expensive.

 

[Freddy Robins]

Floating plants really do improve all forest fish tanks; the fish (with some exceptions) can manage without, but I prefer providing the best for fish so I tend to advise accordingly. As an example, the Emperor Tetras will always be more settled and brighter coloured with some floating vegetation as opposed to an open "ceiling" because of the light. This holds for most characins.

Apistogramma could work, but not with Serpae Tetra. This tetra is notorious as a fin nipper, and needs a group of 12-15 to (hopefully) confine this within the species. All cichlids are sedate fish.

Would you consider changing the blasting sand? This is a sharp sand, intended to be that way because of its purpose. Play sand is the only industrial sand safe for fish. The aquarium type sands are also safe but much more expensive.

Alright, good to know! I will look into some floating plants and changing the sand. In the meantime, would their be any "centerpiece" fish you would reccomend? And if I went with black neons how many should I put in?

 

[Byron]

Alright, good to know! I will look into some floating plants and changing the sand. In the meantime, would their be any "centerpiece" fish you would reccomend? And if I went with black neons how many should I put in?

A group of 12-15 black neons, you have the space so it is best to provide more for the good of the fish.

So with the Emperor Tetras and black neons so far, and probably cories with a sand change over...centrepiece fish could be some larger shoaling fish. This sized tank is ideal for larger-sized species like the Congo Tetra, Bleeding Heart Tetra. A group of 10-12 of either, or both for that matter.

Rams were mentioned back a way, and the Bolivian Ram is a candidate. A solitary male does very well; two will work but only if they are a bonded pair, else one (usually the female) will end up dead before long. The common or blue ram in any of its varieties needs very warm water, 80F (27C) minimum, and most of the other fish will find that too warm and burn out. Cories would be impossible at that temp, even the few species sometimes suggested for warmer tank depending what the temp is.

 

[Freddy Robins]

A group of 12-15 black neons, you have the space so it is best to provide more for the good of the fish.

So with the Emperor Tetras and black neons so far, and probably cories with a sand change over...centrepiece fish could be some larger shoaling fish. This sized tank is ideal for larger-sized species like the Congo Tetra, Bleeding Heart Tetra. A group of 10-12 of either, or both for that matter.

Rams were mentioned back a way, and the Bolivian Ram is a candidate. A solitary male does very well; two will work but only if they are a bonded pair, else one (usually the female) will end up dead before long. The common or blue ram in any of its varieties needs very warm water, 80F (27C) minimum, and most of the other fish will find that too warm and burn out. Cories would be impossible at that temp, even the few species sometimes suggested for warmer tank depending what the temp is.

I do like the way bleeding heart tetras look, so I might go with a school of them. Just to start prep now, what should I have my tanks set at (temp)? And any recommendations on corydoras types?

 

[Byron]

I do like the way bleeding heart tetras look, so I might go with a school of them. Just to start prep now, what should I have my tanks set at (temp)? And any recommendations on corydoras types?

Yes, the Bleeding Heart is frequently confined in too small a tank, but given space, a group can be beautiful. I had a group of 10 or so in my 5-foot 115g many years ago and they were lovely. They remain generally mid-water level, as would the Congo, but they will be fine together if you decide that.

Corydoras...they are all identical in their requirements/temperament so it is really what you like and what you can get. There are over 160 described species and dozens not yet described. You can mix species, and if you do, it is best to try and get 5-6 of each species, or a few more. They all prefer temperatures no warmer than 75-77F (24-25C) and that will suit everything we've discussed so far.

 

[seangee]

Don't often disagree with @Byron but I wouldn't describe serpaes as fin nippers.
More like rampaging terrorists .
I had 12 in a 55G and ended up taking them back as mine simply would not do peaceful community.