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4ft betta tank - equiptment and advice

So, after thinking about it I have decieded to go ahead with the 4ft build!! I'm waiting on some online orders to arrive so I can begin. My next question is: what's the best way to introduce Elvis into his new home? After acclimating him (I'm going to drip acclimate him) should I just put him into the new tank? I want to minimise the stress of the move for him and was wondering if putting him into a breeder box inside the 4ft would be a good option? So he can suss out his new environment first? I'm not basing the breeder box idea on anything except a thought that he may be able to take it all in from a secure space so appologies if that is a stupid question. I'm going to use cycled media from his current tank also. Can I add him in straight away or should I do the standard wait to cycle the tank fully? Again, I feel that is a stupid question but as the tank is so big/understocked don't know if the same rules apply (he will be the only inhabitant except for 5 nerites and 1 Mystery snail already in his tank)!
 
If you use some of the water from his old tank, and some of the filter media from the old filter into the other filter it should insta cycle the tank. Adding plants or rocks/wood,not gravel from the old tank would also help cycle the new tank.
Personally id avoid the mystery snails they eat plants but seeing as you already have one in with plants then carry on. Good luck!
 
Since its the same source water there is no need for acclimation as long as its the same (or similar) temp. Personally I would go straight in as the breeder box effectively means he is being moved twice.
 
If you use some of the water from his old tank, and some of the filter media from the old filter into the other filter it should insta cycle the tank. Adding plants or rocks/wood,not gravel from the old tank would also help cycle the new tank.
Personally id avoid the mystery snails they eat plants but seeing as you already have one in with plants then carry on. Good luck!
I'm planning to add all the plants and drift wood from his tank:) is there a reason for not adding the gravel? I was actually going to rinse in tank water and put it in, thinking that's where a lot of bb is(?), so thank you for bringing that up!
 
Since its the same source water there is no need for acclimation as long as its the same (or similar) temp. Personally I would go straight in as the breeder box effectively means he is being moved twice.
Such a good point - thank you! I'll give the breeder box a miss.
 
I also can't think of a valid reason not to use the gravel - as you say it will have a lot of BB
 
I also can't think of a valid reason not to use the gravel - as you say it will have a lot of BB
Guess i misunderstood, i thought he already had his gravel set up in his new tank and one doesnt ever want to add gravel on top of established gravel or substrate.
But since it sounds from the post that the tank isnt set up then adding gravel from old tank to new tank like you said will be beneficial .
Ive used gravel from other tanks to start a new one to quick cycle a tank as well.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
 
Where to start? I wouldn't discard a canister filter because of age - if it works, it's tried and true and may continue to run fine for years. Failing that, I'm a fan of the Hagen (now Fluval) Aquaclear HOB design as it affords easy maintenance with custom media. Seachem's new Tidal is a close second, although I don't like the irregular sponge. I'd go with one or two AC70's or a single AC110 for that size tank. Sponge filters are great, but typically detract from a natural look.
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As for a planted substrate, SAND. I use pool filter sand, although others report success with regular big box store play sand (e.g. sacrete). The beauty of a coarse sand is that rooted plants do well, but detritus doesn't get down under and with Malaysian Trumpet Snails, it is ... well ... maintenance free.
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Paludariums are neat, but better suited to frogs and lizards than most fish. I don't think a beta would do well in one.
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For lighting, I'd find a decent LED. I like my Finnex Planted Plus 24/7, but Beamswork (and others) have competitively priced LED lights.
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I always cringe a little when I hear a hobbyist write about "minimal maintenance" and I get attitude when I see "low/no maintenance"!!!
Not counting daily feeding and observation, a tank like that will require about an hour or so a week to maintain. This involves a partial water change (about 50%), filter and glass cleaning (and sometimes gravel vacuuming).
If a person can't find an hour a week to maintain an aquarium, they're doing something wrong or shouldn't have any pets at all!
 
As for a planted substrate, SAND. I use pool filter sand
I do not suggest pool filter sand. It is usually coarse, large grained, and to white for the fish. It can stress them out. I suggest tank/brown play sand or black sand. I have sort of a gray/dark brown color play sand in 29g. It looks super good.
 
Addendum...

When starting a new tank, while it's great to use filter material and/or substrate from a healthy, established tank, you never want to add 'old' water. There's nothing but pollution in old water. However, if you've been slacking off on partial water changes in the old tank. you may wat to do one or more before the move to prevent shock (old, neglected water can develop an acidic pH).
 
I do not suggest pool filter sand. It is usually coarse, large grained, and to white for the fish. It can stress them out. I suggest tank/brown play sand or black sand. I have sort of a gray/dark brown color play sand in 29g. It looks super good.
Nay, nay. You want a coarse sand to promote healthy root growth as fine sands pack and inhibit O2 infusion (and makes burrowing difficult for MTS). Also, my PFS is as tan as any sand, including play sands or natural gravel.
I've had PFS in my 60 gallon planted tank (see avitar) for 8+ years and Corries and MTS do well in it and my other community fish are just fine.
 
There’s that word again, “fine”. We want the best for our fish, not just fine.

First off, the sand is to white for the fish. Secondly, it is far to coarse for Cory cats and MTS. (You said it makes it difficult for them to burrow...but that’s where they live most their life’s.)

I suggest play sand, because it’s a happy medium.
 
There’s that word again, “fine”. We want the best for our fish, not just fine.
First off, the sand is to white for the fish. Secondly, it is far to coarse for Cory cats and MTS. (You said it makes it difficult for them to burrow...but that’s where they live most their life’s.)
I suggest play sand, because it’s a happy medium.
I was referring to particle size as finer sands (like the size of granulated sugar) that too easily compact and inhibit root growth! (I'm not sure what you were thinking of). My PFS is about the same color as Sacrete play sand. Now @Byron swears by this play sand, but as I reported in another thread, when I attempted to use it, it was loaded with dust like particles of sand. I rinsed and rinsed and never really got clear water. That's not the case with PFS as I presume that it's screened more carefully so as not to muck up filters. Oh and a sand that's too coarse for Corry's?...Corry's are often raised in tanks with gravel and do just fine! In any case, mine are 10 years old, 8 years in PFS and doing just great!
 
Wow, some nice ideas going on here! I love the fact you want to give Elvis his own fishy mansion, lol. So with that said, here’s yet another idea... divided tank for more bettas! Nothing changes as far as what’s been suggested for your filtration and planting, but I’ve seen these plexiglass dividers that you customize that you could use and keep more than one betta in the same tank. They are able to see each other so they are able to exercise their fins but not actually fight. If it gets too excessive you could make an opaque piece you can remove at will. Whatever you decide, I wish you the best of luck and I’m thrilled for your and Elvis’s new adventure!
 

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