🌟 Exclusive Amazon Black Friday Deals 2024 🌟

Don’t miss out on the best deals of the season! Shop now 🎁

36 gallon stocking

Correct, kuhli loaches should have sand, and there are other fish that would be suitable here that also need sand, like cories, and the smaller cichlids if selected. It is also the best substrate for plants because it is "natural" and plants can easily root in it. As for the plant nutrients, these come from the breakdown of organics in the substrate, from water changes, and from feeding the fish (which of course causes the organics accumulation in the substrate). Depending upon the plant species and number, this can be sufficient. If more is needed, there are substrate tabs which certainly do improve larger and heavier-feeding plants like swords. And liquid fertilizer if the plants are not rooted, like moss, ferns, floating plants.
Ok Coolio. Just for the sake of confirming it would cichlids be okay in the aquarium with the loaches or should I stay away from cichlids at all? Again, the only cichlids I was even remotely interested in were a keyhole cichlid or an apistogramma but I can totally live without them if it’s a bad idea. Thanks so much for helping
 
If the tank is 30 inches long, you might be ok with 1 Apistogramma or keyhole cichlid. If you have a pr and they breed, they might give the Khuli loaches a hard time. However, neither species is overly aggressive and a pr would probably be ok if there are plenty of hiding places for the Khulis.

If the tank was 3 foot long, then not a problem having a pr of Apistogrammas or keyhole cichlids with some Khulis
 
Awesome! I only had in mind one cichlid total, as I read that having pairs increases agression. I’m probably going to sit on the idea of a cichlid for a while, as I want to add the other fish first and make sure the less agressive fish are more confident, but thanks for confirming!
 
Ok Coolio. Just for the sake of confirming it would cichlids be okay in the aquarium with the loaches or should I stay away from cichlids at all? Again, the only cichlids I was even remotely interested in were a keyhole cichlid or an apistogramma but I can totally live without them if it’s a bad idea. Thanks so much for helping

I agree with @Colin_T response to your post, but would like to expand a bit, as your basic idea has merit and could work out very well, provided one understands the facets of it.

First, as already mentioned, the aquarium has sufficient "floor space" for one species of small cichlid. Tankmates have to be carefully thought out, so first decide on which cichlid if any, and then decide on "dither" fish [ask if you don't know what these are]. First some background (taken from my online profile of this species) on the Keyhole, as this is a lovely cichlid and cold work here with adequate preparations.

Cleithracara maronii
Compatibility/Temperament: Very peaceful except when spawning. This is a very shy and retiring species, easily frightened [see additional information under Discussion] and should not be combined with other more aggressive cichlids. Peaceful characins, rasbora, and substrate fish are ideal as "dither fish" to lessen this species' natural shyness.​
Discussion

An ideal cichlid for a community aquarium of non-aggressive fishes. Kept on its own, it will likely be very shy and retiring, and prone to stress. The presence of other fish (termed dither fish) will keep it more settled and relaxed. This is certainly not a fish for a barren tank, in which it will be highly stressed. The aquarium should have a dark substrate, with some flat stones and several chunks of bogwood, and floating plants to shade the light that should not be bright. This would replicate its natural habit, but additional plants will also be suitable especially as they will provide more cover. Keeping in mind its natural habitat, the flow from the filter must be minimal, something that will also suit most forest fish that make good tankmates.​
[Should you decide on a pair, this spawning info will bee of interest.] This species is monomorphic, showing no external differentiation between male and female. A substrate spawner, eggs will be laid on a flat surface, preferably a flat stone, and guarded in the typical cichlid fashion. This is the only time when this species shows any aggressive behaviour towards other fish. Both parents care for the eggs and fry, and parental care lasts a long time--several months--with this species. The fry can easily digest newly hatched brine shrimp from the first.​

Given the species' shyness, I would not recommend a lone individual, but a pair. However, this does raise the issues mentioned above. But dither fish that do not "live" in the vicinity of this cichlid should be fine. It is other territorial fish (other cichlids, etc) and substrate fish (cories, loaches) that will be seen as invaders of the pair's "home." But this does not mean active killing by the cichlids, it often works out fine with just chasing the intruders away. Apistogramma or other dwarf cihclids would be the same issue obviously.

There is one cichlid that does extremely well as a solitary individual in a tank of dither fish including cories, and that is the Bolivian Ram, Mikrogeophagus altispinosus. According to reported observations from the habitat, this species may live in solitude except when spawning. The close relative, the common or blue ram Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, is similar in behaviours but this species must have warmth, in the 82-86F/28-30C minimum range. The Bolivian is fine at normal tropical temperatures in the upper 70's.
 
Okay, I’ll definitely put more research into possible cichlids and types of dither fish to see what I can realistically handle, thanks for all the ideas and recommendations.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top