30 Gallon tank, stocking

[Sgooosh]

I'm thinking dwarf gourami and a single Bristlenose. I wanted a angel fish but others have currently advised getting just 1

Oh yeah might want to lower for these fish together

 

[despreauxb]

Oh yeah might want to lower for these fish together

How do I lower it?

 

[Byron]

just a small question, can gouramis live with duckweed?

Yes. But when it comes to floating plants and fish that spend time among them, the more substantial species are really what is needed. Anabantids especially spend most of their time in the upper level among the dangling roots of floating plants (or in nature, this and overhanging marginal vegetation) browsing for tiny insects. And species that build bubble nests do so among these root masses, which also help protect the eggs and fry. Duckweed can provide none of this, but Water Sprite and similar plants can.

 

[Byron]

yeah i think go to the water supply website, lfs sometimes uses strips which is way too ballpark
not worth it getting a test kit UNLESS you're keeping fish not normal to your water

Both GH and pH were mentioned before this response, so I'll just mention that a pH test kit is well worth having. A nitrate test too. These two are basic tests you should carry out periodically once an aquarium is established, just to ensure stability (over a period of months and even years, these two values, pH and nitrate, should remain basically the same throughout; if nitrates rise it is a sign something is out of balance. And pH falling can be a sign of trouble biologically.

Ammonia and nitrite tests are worth having for emergencies (once the tank is cycled and established). GH/KH not needed once you know the source water GH and KH, and assuming you are not somehow targeting these in the aquarium, for example, using a calcareous substrate or calcareous rock can increase GH/KH, of additives like buffers and such which are dangerous anyway unless necessary and worked out.

 

[carligraceee]

I'm thinking dwarf gourami and a single Bristlenose. I wanted a angel fish but others have currently advised getting just 1

Personally, with your hard water, livebearers would do great!

 

[Sgooosh]

Both GH and pH were mentioned before this response, so I'll just mention that a pH test kit is well worth having. A nitrate test too. These two are basic tests you should carry out periodically once an aquarium is established, just to ensure stability (over a period of months and even years, these two values, pH and nitrate, should remain basically the same throughout; if nitrates rise it is a sign something is out of balance. And pH falling can be a sign of trouble biologically.

Ammonia and nitrite tests are worth having for emergencies (once the tank is cycled and established). GH/KH not needed once you know the source water GH and KH, and assuming you are not somehow targeting these in the aquarium, for example, using a calcareous substrate or calcareous rock can increase GH/KH, of additives like buffers and such which are dangerous anyway unless necessary and worked out.

alright, for all i know the api master test does not contain hardness tests. good point! thanks

 

[Byron]

I found this online for my town, is this what you mean?

The pH is OK for what you are so far considering in fish, though keep in mind thee angelfish is not advisable. But DG if you do get one, and BN are OK, and we can find lots of suitable tankmates.

The carbonate hardness, abbreviated as KH, is a buffering for the pH, and being as high as it is here not a problem. It would help to know the GH though (general or total hardness), this is the prime parameter that can affect fish. From the KH and pH I would assume it is sort of moderate hardness to hard, and if so not really a worry either. But getting the fish store to test the GH is advisable so you/we know. Make sure they give you the number and if it is degrees or ppm (parts per million), we need to know that.

Lowering the GH for soft water fish species is possible, but it is involved. First, you have to dilute the source water with pure water, down to some acceptable GH level. Then, for every partial water change--which should be once a week, and 50-60% of the tank volume, you need to prepare similar water outside the aquarium and then use it for the W/C. This is extra work, and in cases of emergency water changes may be difficult. You are best, especially as these are your first fish tanks, to select fish that will be healthy and happy in the water you have at hand. And once we have the GH, we can offer suggestions.

 

[Byron]

alright, for all i know the api master test does not contain hardness tests. good point! thanks

Correct. The API Master Combo liquid test kit has pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. This is a good kit when starting the aquarium.

 

[Slaphppy7]

Instead of complicating matters by trying to raise/lower GH, PH, or whatever, it's much easier to stock with fish that will do well with the tap water you have.

 

[despreauxb]

The pH is OK for what you are so far considering in fish, though keep in mind thee angelfish is not advisable. But DG if you do get one, and BN are OK, and we can find lots of suitable tankmates.

The carbonate hardness, abbreviated as KH, is a buffering for the pH, and being as high as it is here not a problem. It would help to know the GH though (general or total hardness), this is the prime parameter that can affect fish. From the KH and pH I would assume it is sort of moderate hardness to hard, and if so not really a worry either. But getting the fish store to test the GH is advisable so you/we know. Make sure they give you the number and if it is degrees or ppm (parts per million), we need to know that.

Lowering the GH for soft water fish species is possible, but it is involved. First, you have to dilute the source water with pure water, down to some acceptable GH level. Then, for every partial water change--which should be once a week, and 50-60% of the tank volume, you need to prepare similar water outside the aquarium and then use it for the W/C. This is extra work, and in cases of emergency water changes may be difficult. You are best, especially as these are your first fish tanks, to select fish that will be healthy and happy in the water you have at hand. And once we have the GH, we can offer suggestions.

Is there a way I can find this out without going to a fish store? My closest one is over an hour away. Im still leaning towards dwarf gouramis and bristlenose if my water is allotted

 

[Byron]

Is there a way I can find this out without going to a fish store? My closest one is over an hour away. Im still leaning towards dwarf gouramis and bristlenose if my water is allotted

If you are on municipal water, which I think you are as you found the online data above, call them and ask for the general hardness or total hardness--not carbonate hardness, we have that. Get the number and their measurement which I assume will be mg/l the same as the list in post #8 but ask to make certain.

 

[despreauxb]

While waiting for the water parameter data and the tank dimensions, we can say "no" to angelfish and gourami. Angelfish need more space, and a lone angelfish will be...lonely, this is a shoaling species but it needs a lot of space for a group. Males are territorial. So are gourami males, but a trio of dwarf gourami would work tank-wise (depending upon the water parameters) though many of us do not recommend the dwarf unless you can obtain them direct from a breeder; commercially-raised fish can still carry the iridovirus and there is no cure.

Do you intend live plants, even if just floating plants? This makes a difference, as gourami need floating plants (so do many others, at least they appreciate them).

So I found a site where it tells you how many gallons since it was given to me used and it says its actually around 20 gallons, I have to wait until Monday to call my Boro to find out my water hardness

 

[Byron]

So I found a site where it tells you how many gallons since it was given to me used and it says its actually around 20 gallons, I have to wait until Monday to call my Boro to find out my water hardness

OK, this is a 20 gallon high tank, so we have that settled.

 

[I Like Rare Fish]

definetly not Angellfish, even in a 30. Dwarf Gourami’s are fine. I vote for White Spotted Dwarf Hypanicisturus Pleco. Better-suiting. You can get 1 Gourami, and a group of Corys with the 2

 

[despreauxb]

If you are on municipal water, which I think you are as you found the online data above, call them and ask for the general hardness or total hardness--not carbonate hardness, we have that. Get the number and their measurement which I assume will be mg/l the same as the list in post #8 but ask to make certain.

So they said they don't test the hardness since its not a requirement. He did say that we do have hard water