29 gallon suggestions

[tgo]

Just wanted to get some advice on how to move forward with 29 gallon I recently set up. It is a planted tank with the following stock:

1 new male Thicklipped Gourami
6 newer Cardinal tetras
1 10 yr old Lemon Tetra (sole survivor of old school)
1 6 yr old cherry barb (sole survivor of old school)

The two older fish were moved over from a 15 gallon that I will keep going as a quarantine tank for the time being.

Here are a couple options I have been considering for eventual stocking:

1 Thicklipped Gourami
15 Cardinals
1 lemon tetra
1 cherry barb
5 otocinclus

Or

1 Thickkipped Gourami
6 Cardinals
6 Lemon Tetras
6 Cherry Barbs
5 otocinclus

Basically, I can't decide if I should build up a large school of Cardinals or get 5 more lemons and cherries to give the old timers some friends. I can't see them living much longer, but they still seem healthy and happy and feel a little bad for them. I also don't want to give them up.

Looking for any suggestions! Thank you in advance.

 

[Byron]

Many of us find ourselves with sole survivors of a group of fish, and my thinking is that such fish, given their age, are best left where they are, rather than being introduced to younger fish which may or may be stressful. Introducing new younger fish "along the way" as it were, if one intends maintaining the species into the future, is another option, but best carried out continuously as the older fish may die off. I have a survivor of my group of 15 Red Phantom Tetras that has been the sole fish of this species for over three years now, still enjoying itself I assume.

As for the species mentioned, Lemon Tetra is one I would not include here (once the survivor has passed). This fish is peaceful, certainly, but probably a bit too active for the gourami. Much the same could be said of the cherry barb; some have found this fish rather active (which is in its nature, so should be expected) and it would be best not to tempt fate.

Cardinal tetra are ideal, and increasing the group is a good idea. This fish is less active swimming, preferring to cruise in groups among plants, branches, etc, and being a lower-half fish the gourami has the upper level more to itself. There are some other similarly-behaved tetras, say the Black Phantom Tetra, that would work, or the Red Phantom if more colour is wanted--just make sure it is the Red Phantom, and not something like the very similar-looking Serpae or Red Minor Tetra, as this fish would decimate the gourami's fins.

BTW, I will just mention that this gourami does not appreciate water flow, so in this tank a good filter would be a dual sponge or similar. A good cover of floating plants...and the gourami will be as happy as can be!

 

[tgo]

Thank you fir the detailed reply. The two older fish do look content and shoal with the cardinals so I think you're right just to leave them be and not add more of their kind. Both seem to stay out if the gourami' s way too.

In terms of filtration, I do gave an HOB filter on the lowest flow setting. The vals seem to break up that current ok. I'll look into some floating plants for the gourami as well. Justt out of curiosity, how will the gourami be affected by high flow? Are there tell-tale signs that it is affecting their health or happiness?

 

[Byron]

Thank you fir the detailed reply. The two older fish do look content and shoal with the cardinals so I think you're right just to leave them be and not add more of their kind. Both seem to stay out if the gourami' s way too.

In terms of filtration, I do gave an HOB filter on the lowest flow setting. The vals seem to break up that current ok. I'll look into some floating plants for the gourami as well. Justt out of curiosity, how will the gourami be affected by high flow? Are there tell-tale signs that it is affecting their health or happiness?

We learn about fish responses in several ways. Primarily, a study of the environment conditions of the natural habitat is crucial to understanding what the species requires and expects. Each species of freshwater fish on this planet has evolved to function best in a very specific environment. This includes water parameters (GH, pH, temperature), water flow, features like floating vegetation, substrate composition, hardscape like wood, rock, etc., how many of the species live interactively (shoaling fish, solitary fish), and the other species that may share this habitat. This is programmed into the species DNA. The species "expects" these, and in their absence the fish is under stress; this stress can vary depending upon the factor and the species and the individual fish, but it is now accepted scientific fact. The degree to which a fish can be denied these necessities--necessary for a healthy normal life--may vary, and the fish may live; any fish will attempt to make the best of what it is facing, that is in its will to survive; but "survive" is not "thrive."

None of us can talk to a fish, so we must rely on our knowledge of what the fish needs and by providing that as close as reasonably possible we are doing what we can to ensure the fish's well-being. We know very well how stress affects fish just as it does other animals including humans, and we know that stress in fish is the direct cause of 95% of all fish disease--pathogens may be present, but it is the stress that weakens the fish's health and allows the pathogen to take hold.

Turning to this species, Trichogaster labiosa, it occurs in southern Myanmar (Burma) where it inhabits shaded slow-moving or still waters such as streams and ponds with thick vegetation. The habitat description on SF says this fish tends to be found in weedy areas with lots of floating vegetation. The Maintenance data reads:
Ideally, keep it in a well-planted tank with a dark substrate. It’s a shy, slow-moving species and will not do well without cover into which it can retreat. Add some floating vegetation to provide further security and mimic its natural waters. Any water flow from filters etc. should be reduced as far as possible.

 

[tgo]

Thank you for the advice - much appreciated