OP
OP
24inch Finnex HLC Planted + LED Fixture
- Thread starter kribensis12
- Start date
Salty&Onion
Fish Aficionado
Yeah. I know, but I meant for UK, just where I am
OP
OP
kribensis12
I know where you live
Yeah. I know, but I meant for UK, just where I am
I see. Makes sense! I'd just google the name of it and see what comes up! It sells for roughly $64-70 dollars in the U.S ( depending on website).
Salty&Onion
Fish Aficionado
Not cheap, but if it is that expensive then it must be so good! I'll look for it, thanks!
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
First of all the 1" per gallon rule only applies to 1-3" fish - anything larger and it fails miserably - but that's rarely mentioned.
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All due respect to Tom Barr, but I'm a fishkeeper that uses plants to aid in water purification. Barr's EI method is focused on growing plants fast with lots of ferts, light, CO2, and huge weekly water changes... I just don't see how loading up a tank with chemical ferts is all that good for fish. As everything in the water gets into the fish through osmosis. Sure, it may be great for plants, but at what cost to fish?
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AND, all due respect to Dianna Walstad, but her method only works with a very heavily planted tank with VERY FEW fish, unlike what most hobbyists would want or have. (I also feel a dirt tank is more trouble than it's worth and 1-2" of 'dirt' in an aquarium is going to loose any nutrient value it brought to the party very quickly to become nearly inert anyway.)
[end rant]
I agree on both. Ive done the dirted tank. My plants grew really well and my fish were healthy until about two years later when the substrate went dead and anaerobic and killed everything. Ive used EI method and its an expensive mess and really good for growing plants fast and really easy to grow algae if one goes wrong and not suitable for fish. Having said that both methods incorporate basic fundamentals needed to grow plants. One can learn a ton about substrate growth from walstads research. The knowledge Barr has on nutrient absorption and theyre relationships with eachother and those relationships with light can be invaluable building blocks for a hobbyist growing plants with or without fish.
I dont grow plants to enter into contests for show tanks but that doesnt mean i cant take proven principles used by those that do and apply it to growing say, one amazon sword in my tank. The basic fundamental priciples are all the same. Plants need nutrients and light to grow. How one accomplishes that and to what end differ.
As for the 1" rule its not perfect but it can be helpful for like you say when purchasing 1-3" fish which are the fish that most fish stores sell and most amateur hobbyist purchase and as we all know local LFS store generally fail at explaining most everything
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OP
kribensis12
I know where you live
That looks good to me. What exactly did you do...I re-read this thread and cannot find where you did "this" or "that."
OP
OP
kribensis12
I know where you live
Honestly, I just replaced the light and I am using the 24/7 built in light timer. Seems to be doing this fine and I have noticed some algae begin to disappear. I have not yet put root tabs in for the swords (will do this week with the water change). I have always dosed 2x weekly with Seachem Flourish (per the bottle) and daily with Seachem Flourish Advance (it's a phytonutrient).
DwarfCichlidLvr
Fish Addict
Im am getting this light today. At least amazon said it should be here today. lol
DwarfCichlidLvr
Fish Addict
So far I like it but that's only looks. I'll tell you how it performs in a week.
DwarfCichlidLvr
Fish Addict
Question. I have this exact light. I have it set so 3-6 (am) is in complete darkness and at 12 (am) it have the RGB on the lowest setting and white off. Is this ok?
OP
OP
kribensis12
I know where you live
Honestly, I've been using the 24/7 programming and I LOVE it! The plants are doing VERY well. I would just use the program.
DwarfCichlidLvr
Fish Addict
Ok, I'll see how it does on my custom setting first though. However the preset 24/7 function provides not dark period for the fish (or plants).
Not sure I follow this, so a couple things. First, you need a period of total darkness with no daylight or artificial light in the room, and this must be several hours in a block. For most of us who get to bed by midnight, the dark night period would be from say 11 pm or 12 midnight until daybreak. Once the daylight begins entering the room (as it will unless you completely block off the windows somehow) the fish wake up and that ends their rest period. The other essential is to have a continuous block of "daylight" when the tank lighting is on for the benefit of the plants; this can be six hours or seven or eight, or nine...up to you, and usually determined by the biology as you want to discourage algae. Have this "daylight" last when you are normally home to enjoy the aquarium. No point in having the lighting on from 9 to 3 if you are always at work or school or whatever. The periods between the total darkness block and the daylight block represent dawn and dusk to the fish but these can be as long as needed. Just make sure there is ambient room light (whether daylight through the window or artificial room lighting) when the tank light comes on and when it goes off. The ambient lighting should present for an hour minimum at either end.
Example. When I was working I left the house at 6:30am and got back at 6 pm. The tank lights came on at 1 pm and there was obviously ambient daylight even with blinds. Tanklights went off at 9 pm (I was never up much past that, given my schedule) and I had a room light also on a timer to come on just before the tank lighting went off, and remain on for one hour. Then from 10pm until 5 or 6 am it was pitch black.
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