24G Nano Cube DX Nano Reef Setup

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CAUTION This warning is a retroedit placed on 06/20/05. Numerous Nano Cubes appear to be suffering cracks, some resulting in catastrophic failure with loss of livestock and destruction of personal property. Proceed with this thread at your own risk with regards to the Nano Cube. However, the majority of the post can be applied to setting up a regular nano reef. I post this sadly after putting so much work into it to help others. SH


Hi... I decided to post this after a note from Parker313. It was her tank that inspired me to try out a nano-reef and also her thread that eventually emptied my bank account (just teasing you Parker). I decided to post this here instead of over at the nano reef site since this is where my interest took hold and, I think, most FW converters start their initial investigation into SW here. I geared it towards people like myself..curious to start a nano or SW tank; ;some experience with FW;some technical abilities but certainly a newbie in this department.

Changing over from FW to SW was a daunting task for me and getting basic questions answered by posts was difficult. Seemed that it was harder 'over there than over here'. Despite that, the site is great (nano-reef.com) and I found a guru and I'm ready to get my feet wet (sorry). So, for those who are interested in a different system or are just plain interested, here goes the pathway using a Nano Cube 24G by a newbie on the way. Now for the fine print.

I spent a month reading and lurking in the Nano forums. This is how I've chosen to do my setup. Nano Cubes, like medicine, are an art. So....don't take any of my steps for gospel. I'm new to this. I may be wrong. Do your own research. I will mention brand names to help as a start. Pick your own brands. Read. I will post my fumbles, foibles, etc. Although I'm not Donald Trump, I decided not to cut corners in certain areas, eg, a water filter. There is a pretty consistent theory that SW tanks are not cheap and a little investment and time in the beginning may pay dividends in the long run with respect to not losing livestock. So...feel free to post and add/critique. Go easy, I'm only trying to help. Here is some recommended reading:

1) The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup & Stocking Guide
by Michael S. Paletta http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=books&n=507846
2) http://www.nano-reef.com
3)Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History
by Eric H. Borneman http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=glance&s=books
4)The Simple Guide To Mini-reef Aquariums. This book was just released in 2005. I'm reading it now and it looks GREAT!!!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=books&n=507846

Reminder... the following is for nano care and topics may not apply to the maintenance of a standard reef aquarium

The Nano Cube (for those just starting out)

The Nano Cube is sold by JBL. It comes in several sizes, 12G and 24G. I chose the 24G DX with Moonlight LEDs thinking that slightly more volume would 'buffer' any insults. Bottom line..nano-reefs need meticulous care. My version has the following specs:

1) 24 Gallons 18"x 19.6 x 19.7, glass, seamless corners
2) 72 ( 2 x 36 )watts of compact fluorescent light, 50/50 actinic, two cooling fans
3)Three stage filtration with three rear chambers; comes with 3 sponges, bioballs, ceramic rings, activated charcoal, 290 GPH stock pump (one sponge not shown..it's in my tank in the test run)
nano1.jpg

4)Flip top canopy
5) Moonlight LEDs

I found the cheapest place to purchase mine was on Ebay. The LFS was more than $120 higher.

This is a view of my cube during my dry run, testing for temp, leaks, filtration. Note the intake grill on the left and powerhead outlet on the right.
nano2.jpg


Here is a view of the chambers in the back. Temp probe is in the middle and heater is in the third chamber
nano3.jpg


Advantages of the Cube

IMO:
1) Appearance...just looks cool
2) Mostly self contained. For some of us, it's just easier to have a 'package deal'
3) Width and depth allow for interesting aquascaping of your live rock
4) Has built-in moonlight LEDs
5) Has enough lighting to start off certain soft corals

Disadvantages

IMO:
1) Total lighting supplied is inadequate for many types of corals and livestock, thus, may limit what you have in your tank (eg, certain hard corals and clams)
2)Retrofitting takes some skill and, with this model, may lead to overheating
3)Stock pump is weak
4) No skimmer, although, probably unnecessary
5) When put on a timer, the fans turn off with the lights and the moonlight LEDs can't turn on, ie, must turn the lights off manually to use the LEDS
6) Must be very creative to have a sump with the cube
So, in some hands, creating your nano-reef from regular tanks may leave more doors open to you for better lighting, plumbing and refugium placement( see Parker313's thread). This leads to the next discussion.

Modifications to the Nano Cube (or mods)

Many nano-reefers modify their tanks. The main mods are:

1) Swap out the stock pump for a better one, either the Maxijet 1200 or Rio 1400. Some move the stock pump into the first chamber for more water movement
2) Lighting....add more compact fluorescent lighting
3) Modify the middle chamber into a refugium
4) Remove the sponges, bioballs and ceramic rings (some feel they are nirate factories)
5) Add a skimmer. Most people feel that regular weekly water changes will obviate the need for a skimmer. Skimming my remove valuable nutrients. Most skimmers won't fit into a NanoCube. There is one interesting post on nano-reef.com about using a cassette tape cover over the intake grate as a skimmer. If used, tho', you can't use the stock pump in the first chamber since the inward water flow holds the cassette cover in place.

Shopping List

Planning on what you are going to have in your tank first, ie, READING, will help you to figure out what you need to buy. Will you have:
1) Fish only--substrate without LR,plastic ornaments. Cheaper, simpler, but, a dead end if you eventually want corals. Lighting is not much of an issue
2) Fish only with live rock (FOWLR)--can be 'upgraded' when you are ready to go on to corals. Will need heavy lighting requirements depending on how advanced you are going to be.

For now, I've decided to stay with the stock 24G cube. Many soft corals will be supportable. This is a list of my equipment (hey..I may forget one or two things, so, keep on your toes):

1) Heater....Ebo Jager for me. They're in all my tanks. 100W. Solid as a rock.
2) Thermometer. I used a digital one from Drs. Foster and Smith
3) Hydrometer ( I opted to get a refractometer)
4) Marine test kit: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate...extra is calcium and kH. I went with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals to start. Most rave about Salifert, but, check out the prices on it (it's in the hundreds)
5) Sea salt, popular ones are Oceanic, Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals ( I went with Oceanic)
6) Salt mixing equipment...5 gallon bucket (Home Depot), heater, powerhead, storage container
7) Source of pure water, I purchased an RO/DI unit on Ebay from Aquasafe Systems.
filter.jpg

You can buy premixed seawater at most lfs'...either on the shelf or that they make...you can also buy distilled water at the store if you want and mix the salt yourself.
8) Miscellaneous...net, small gravel vac for siphoning, gloves, algae scraper
9) Last and not least..when ready...live rock, live sand and/or other substrate (crushed coral, aragonite, etc.)
10) Surge protector and don't forget to setup a GFI circuit near water

Preparation

I won't go into all the 'find a good location for your tank' stuff. I decided to go with the Maxijet 1200.
maxijet.jpg

So...I removed the stock pump from the last chamber. I had to cut the plastic ties on the tubing to get the tube off the pump. I had extra Eheim tubing and replaced the tubing that came with the Nano and also reapplied the ties. The stock pump I will either add to the first chamber or use it for mixing sea water for water changes.

Clean the tank. I used vinegar to help remove some stuck on tape. Rinse.

Set up your tank where you chose the good location and on your stand

My planned live run setup:
1) First chamber: One sponge and possibly the stock pump, facing out of the left side of the intake grate
2) Second chamber: In the future, I will probably add live rock rubble for additional filtration and later on macroalgae as a refugium if I can successfully get light into the middle chamber (this is an area where you have to do some reading and research). Temp probe is in here
3) Third chamber: Maxijet pump, heater

Do a test run. I can't overemphasize this. There are many horror stories of unseen cracks because of the seamless glass. I am presently running mine with FW since I plan to try a refugium modification to see how the temps go. This is where I am for now. SH
 
YAY! Thank you so much for starting this! It sounds like you've got a ton of good ideas and I can't wait to see how they play out and how your tank develops :thumbs:

--Kristin
 
Actually those Nano Cubes are pretty cheap here in Canada, so please let me know how you like it ( after running if for awhile ) I may get one started for a office FOWLR tank...

Looks like a good way to start...I don't plan on upgrading it much...would it be ok stock ??
 
It would be OK stock, but you'd be limited to keeping soft corals.

Ooops, sorry Frank! Didn't mean to hijack your journal :*) :X
 
In between things, I'll throw in some extra info. Again, this post is geared mostly for the 'how to'.

Seawater (or we're not in Kansas anymore)

Ok, while the tank is in it's test phase, we're leaving FW behind and now to saltwater. I'm leaving all the details for you to read re: mineral content and the history of the ocean and it's reefs. Unlike FW, one needs to be concerned about specific gravity (s.g.) and salinity. Salts dissolved in water increase it's weight and density. Now when we add livestock, we have to be concerned about acclimatizing to s.g., pH, water temp, etc.

We need to make sea water to fill our tanks. Hence,the big pre-seawater comment, "I heard it's a lot more work". Anyway, some stuff you'll need (this is what I have):

1) bucket for mixing sea water
2) Storage container
3)El cheapo heater
4) Powerhead to mix the salt (that is the stock pump I removed in the photo)
5) Hydrometer or refractometer
6) Sea salt

nano4.jpg


Popular consensus:
1) Sea water should be mixed up the day or two before (aged). It should be heated,mixed with a powerhead, s.g. gravity checked...1.021-1.026, pH about 8.2. A recent poll on nano-reef.com showed most reefers between 1.023-1.025.
2) SW can be stored for several months if kept well-sealed and in a cool place
3) For brands, Oceanic, Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals got most of the highest reviews. However, this article may make you think differently: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-03/rs/feature/index.htm
4) The hydrometer is plastic and many of the 'reefers' posted that it 'works when it wants to'. So...I bought a refractometer..one of the corners I elected not to cut.
5) Now...water. The big heated question. SW fish are extremely sensitive to nitrates and excess phophates can cause algae blooms. So....what to do about water? Options discussed include:
a) tap water filter
b ) buy distilled water
c) buy premixed sea water either at your lfs or in a plastic bottle on the shelf
seastock.jpg

(just a pic for example, I don't necessarily recommend this product)
d) buy an RO/DI filter ...reverse osmosis/de-ionized..which removes virtually all minerals and contaminants from the water.

What I did: throughout all my FW tank changes, my tap water contained 5-20 ppm nitrates and that is with an attached PUR filter. This is totally unacceptable for a SW tank. Many homes have copper pipes...copper can be toxic. Since I would have to do weekly 10% water changes (2.5 gallons/week), I did the maths and figured that my own filter made sense. Again, I think they are cheapest on Ebay.

N.B.
At the supermarket, you can buy the store brand container of steam distilled water for $2.25 for 2.5 gallons, priced here in NY. Here are some calculations if you do not want to foot the cost buying a filter to makeRO water:

--adding water to the 24 gallon cube will require 10 containers at a cost of $22.50
--a weekly 10% water change will cost you $2.25
--minimal water requirements for your 1st year will cost you $22.50 + $117.00 (52 x 2.25) =$139.50.

That already exceeds the price of a RO/DI unit. Just food for thought. For some people who don't wish to mess with this stuff, this may be an option.

Point of interest for Converting FW'ers
New piece of info for us FW aquarists...when there is evaporation of water from a SW tank, the specific gravity will progressively increase since salts do not evaporate. Replacing the water with sea water is a no-no as this will cause a progressive rise in s.g. You must constantly top off the tank with pure water. Therefore, you must always have pure water stored or on hand.

And now..tank update. My tank temp warmed up to 78.9 degrees and held steady. So..I cut the lights now to see what the setpoint on my heater is doing. It cooled to about 77 degrees, so, I know the heater is set below this temp. SO...I've now added my first DIY ....a fuge light, but not one of the ones seen before and it may or may not work.Now I will put on all lights to see how the temp goes with the fuge light going. More pix on this mod to follow. SH
 
He he..no problem Parker...I already put that in the post above on one of the limitations/disadvantages to the cube. However, when one gets comfy here, you could always modify the hood if you have a hankering to it. The hood DOES have room to retrofit another light and bring it into hard coral range. SH
 
Im excited to see this tank in the future :D allmost every nano tank I have seen have been really nice and they allways take me by surprise on there size! In some pictures I wouldn't even know they were nano tanks enless I read it. anyways good luck
 
I'm confused :/ ( now there's a shock )

you state that you top off with fresh water, when you do a water change do you use SW or FW...silly question I know. I always wondered about that ??

Thanks

:)
 
Correct....top off is with freshwater...brings the concentrated (evaporated) SW back to the s.g. where it started. When you do SW water changes, you remove SW at it's normal concentration and replace with SW at normal concentration. It's a new thing for us 'newbies' to deal with...that evaporation must now be replaced as it occurs to prevent concentrated SW.

Mod Looks Like a Go

As mentioned above, one of the mods of the Nano Cube is to make a refugium out of the back middle chamber. For other newbies here, a refugium is a 'refuge' or protected area away from the main tank. One desirable reason to have a refugium is that you can keep macroalgae back there. Macroalgae do wonderful things for a SW aquarium, mostly remove phosphates and NITRATES. However, macroalgae can take over your live rock and become a nuisance. Hence, people like to keep it in a refugium. Macroalgae require light, so, if you keep it in the back, you have to figure a way to get light back there. Many people wire small 13Watt CF lights over the back. I was looking for a way to avoid all this 'retrofit' biz. So..my experiment is:

Placing a submersible 10W quartz halogen light in the back over the middle chamber. Requires no rewiring.
a) advantages..ease of placement; waterproof
B) disadvantages...heat, low wattage, light spectrum (3000K), unknown right now if it will support the macroalgae

Well..here is the light:
nano5.jpg


Here is the mod:
nano6.jpg


I've run the cube most of the day today with the hood lights on and the 'fuge' light on. There was no heat rise. Looks like this is a go for testing.

Another refugium DIY that some people use is to actually cutout part of the back hood and they put an AquaClear 70 (300) outside powerfilter on the back with some modifications of the plastic media holder. Man..this stuff gets complicated, doesn't it?? Now you know where I was not too long ago.

Well....I think the test run is just about done and I'm ready for live rock and live sand. Moving along. SH
 
Right now you have it full..... go ahead and drain it down to aboue 1/2 before you get the live rock and live sand. Trust me on this one, okay :) When you get your live rock and live sand home, you're gonna be eager to get it in the water so that there's no die-off. Times like that are when common sense takes a backseat to child-like enthusiasm :D Drain the tank down a bit now and keep the water in that bucket ready to be poured back in if needed. Don't do like me and toss the rock and sand in, then curse about the mess you've just made :lol:
 
Agreed..the tank is filled with FW now for the dry run, so, I'm going to completely drain it out today. What chkltcow was implying is that when you add your LR and sand to the tank, if you fill it to the top, it will spill over, etc. In the cube, however, the intake is at the top of the tank. You can fill the tank full when you are mixing up your first SW, then, siphon off about a 1/3rd before adding the LR. Some thoughts coming up on LR next. SH
 
How thick is the glass on your cube ?? I am thinking either by a cube or make my own...both would cost me the same but I think I would have more options building my own. I am only asking because I was reading up on them ( on another forum ) and read many stories of the tank cracking and leaking due to it being made out of thin curved glass..

:)
 
Grey..I"m not sure of the thickness, but, there are horror stories over there on cracked cubes. The seamless edge seems to be the culprit. However, that is one of the nice things about it...it has a prismatic effect and no obstructive bars in the front. That is why this baby is getting a long test run (well..the mod too).The beginning of my post says that there are DEFINITELY advantages and flexibility to a regular tank like Parker's. I did hear that they are coming out with a new design sometime, but, I don't think they will change the glass shape. I think that's why a lot of the nano-reefers use it...appearance.
 

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