110 Gallon? Planted? Any Advice?

They are primarily concerned with substances that are health risks, which is understandable. There is no mention of hard minerals, namely calcium and magnesium, which might give us a clue (these are the principal minerals contributing to hardness).  GH is included in the TDS (total dissolved solids) but so is a lot of other stuff, so this cannot be taken as a guide.  If you have no luck contacting them, you might be able to find out from other hobbyists (local club perthaps) or a reliable fish store.  Some stores will test water, but make sure they give you a number, not some vague term.  Terms like "soft" or "moderately hard" aqre subjective and can be very different depending upon the view of the individual; but actual numbers are absolute, at least within the testing method used.
 
Ok thanks Byron ^^ will let you guys know as soon as I do.
 
Ok general hardness would be gh? would it be called total hardness in the report? And would the kh be called alkalinity?
 
The Alkalinity is written as 175 on average no Carbonates, and ph is 7.23. 
 
Good luck in your project, I too am in the process of helping my brother with his tank, the advice I've seen on here are superb.this his his.
 

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A question: are you determined to have shrimp in that tank or would you consider a shrimpless suggestion?
 
Cymmie said:
Ok general hardness would be gh? would it be called total hardness in the report? And would the kh be called alkalinity?
 
Yes to question1 and 3, and probably yes to question 2.
 
The Alkalinity is written as 175 on average no Carbonates, and ph is 7.23.
 
 
I will assume the Alkalinity measurement unit is either mg/l (milligrams per litre) or ppm (parts per million) as both are the same and this high a number could not possibly be degrees.  The dKH equivalent is about 10 dKH, so you have water that is buffered well and the pH is not likely to change.
 
The high KH usually equates with a similar GH.  If this is the case here, you would have roughly a GH of 10 dGH, which is moderately hard.  If you can find the total hardness, we will know more definitely.
 
Byron.
 
My goal is to have shrimp in the tank.
 
Byron, is it true that my pipes can change the overall outcome of the GH and KH values? Should I get a test kit?
 
In that case I would suggest a nice group of 15 neon rainbowfish (Melanotaenia praecox), 15 zebra fish (Dario rerio) and 2m4f dwarf gourami (Trichogaster lalius).
 
That would be a nice stocking that leaves you a bit of room to add some more similar fish should you want to.
 
That sounds like a beautiful mix <3 Thank you so much for your input.
 
Cymmie said:
My goal is to have shrimp in the tank.
 
Byron, is it true that my pipes can change the overall outcome of the GH and KH values? Should I get a test kit?
 
It is not very likely that the GH or KH of the source water will be affected by travelling through the pipes.  The plumbing is probably copper, and very new copper plumbing can release some copper into the water.  But otherwise, no.
 
If you have a reliable fish store, they will often do tests for you, free if you are a regular customer.  Take a sample from the aquarium, taken before a water change so you have a better sample of the "normal," and ask them to test the GH.  Make sure they give you a number, not some vague subjective term.  Numbers are very important in tests.
 
Generally, the GH and KH will not change much if at all in an aquarium.  The only time it does is if it is being specifically targeted.  For example, if you had calcareous rock, gravel or sand, this will release calcium and magnesium and raise the GH and pH too.  But inert gravel or sand substrates do not do this.  Calcareous means it is composed of minerals like calcium, magnesium, marble, lava, coral or shells.  For the reverse, if the initial GH and KH are on the soft side, it is possible to lower them further with the use of organic matter like wood, leaves, peat.  The initial GH/KH determine how much this might occur.
 
Byron.
 

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