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10 Gallon Tank And Nitrogen Cycle

The amount you stock the tank really depends on the amount of 'seeded' material you are adding.  It is always best to start small when doing a clone tank.  In a fishless cycle, you would complete the cycle exactly as the article written here, except you would test in 24 hours and go from there.  The initial stages are greatly reduced, but the end of the cycle is the same.  You still start with 3 ppm ammonia.  In 24 hours, you see how much ammonia has been processed and how much nitrite, if any, has shown up.  Many times in a seeded cycle, the nitrite doesn't show up right away.  The ammonia and nitrite bacs are in a good balance.  But, as the ammonia bacs multiply, they grow at a slightly faster rate than the nitrite bacs and so it does show up a bit (not to mention that '1 ppm ammonia' as the API kit tests it will become just over '2.5ppm' nitrite - since the scale is based on the MASS of the particles, not the number of nitrogen atoms involved (which would have a 1:1 ratio).
 
If I were to seed a 29 gallon tank from a 10 gallon tank, I'd likely go the fishless route unless I was otherwise FORCED to start it earlier.  The only time I've gone fish in cycle is when I was seeding a SMALLER tank from a larger one.  A smaller tank won't require as much bacteria to deal with the bioload (assuming you keep the load in proportion to the volume of the tank).  A larger tank requires a larger colony to deal with the bioload for that size tank (larger volume = greater max bioload).   You can take nearly half of the filter media from the 10 gallon though when seeding the 29.  The 10 gallon has the benefit of ALL the other surfaces in the tank containing bacteria as well.  You can also bring over a bit of the substrate, decor, etc.  All surfaces provide places for the bacs you want to live and do their job.
 
 
 
As for plants... there are actually quite a lot out there.  Anubias are very nice, slow growing, low light, low maintenance plants.  Java fern is another very lovely, easily grown, no fuss plant.  Peacock fern as well.  These are all plants that cannot be 'planted' in the substrate, but need to be tied to decor (wood, rocks, etc) as their rhizome must stay in the water column or it will rot and the plant will die.  Lots of anubias leaf styles and sizes to choose from.  
 
Stem plants... pennywort, elodea, sometimes cabomba.  Some of these will be trickier than others.  Pennywort will likely work no matter what.  
 
Bushy plants... A lot of cryptocoryne species will work.  C. wendtii is a readily available and easy to grow variety.  You can also grow some nice amazon swords.  Some will be fussier than others.  
 
Grass like... vallisneria might work for you or it might not.  I've had extremely limited success with it.  Saggittaria, hairgrass and their dwarf varieties are nice and fairly low maintenance.
 
 
In general, avoid 'red' varieties as they generally require higher light.  And research.  Here's a good source for determining what type of lighting is needed for plants: http://tropica.com/en/plants  (I'm not endorsing buying from them.  I've never ordered from them, but I have considered it.  Its a nice starting point though.)
 
Thanks, guys. Yes, I would consider a fishless cycle as I read all the articles here and it seems the fastest route. I have a Hagen Marineland S15 filter in my 10 gallon. Here is the description for the fiokter: it includes 3 filter cartridges, 2 Bio-Carb and 1 Bio-Clear. Both cartridges contain Ceramitek, which is engineered to optimize biological filtration, for a healthy aquarium. I could always put an extra Bio-Clearn in my 10 gallon and just put it in the new filter somehow. Good idea about taking some gravel too! As I said, I don't currently have the room to set up my 29 gallon, but I might work something out in the future.
 
Thank you for the plant suggestions!
 
So I bought a new Ammonia API test (liquid) and tested my water today. I was thinking maybe my ammonia test was expired. I bought it years ago, but it doesn't have an expiration date imprinted on the bottles like the new ones have. I actually got a zero reading for ammonia with the new test! That is the first time I see a yellow color! Yay! I'm super happy! I will wait another 2 weeks before introducing 3 neon tetras to the mix. My tank is 2 weeks old today. I hope the bacteria will be able to grow fast after introducing new fish. I'm super worried to mess with the tank.
 
What is the nitrite reading?
 
What kind of led light do you have? Do you have any driftwood in the tank or anything that causes tannins? These can all effect what type of plants can grow? Before I added driftwood that caused tannins, I was able to grow dwarf sag pretty well. My anubias plants do well. I didn't have luck with Java fern for some reason though. Crypts (especially wendtii) are doing well. I have three diff types of led lights on three tanks. One is regular with white and a few blues. One has white, red, and blue. And the other has white, red, blue,and green. The different spectrums can help with plants. I'm having great luck with floating plants like water lettuce. There are lots of low light plants to try. :)
 
My LEDs are just white. It came with the tank kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0173I55JM/ref=twister_B01826Q2WS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Not enough information about it, though. I don't have any driftwood in my tank. Right now I just have 3 fake plants and 1 Anubias Nana. I really want to have real plants instead of fake ones, but I don't want to have to deal with high maintenance plants or have to get new equipment.
 
Tested the water today. Ammonia and nitrite are still zero and nitrates are still a little bit darker than 10, but not red for 20. I haven't done a partial water change since July 7 (when I didn't know about Tetra suggesting to hold off water changes for 2 weeks after adding SafeStart Plus) . When should I do a partial water change?
 
I will be cycling a 5 gallon tank for my Betta when it arrives tomorrow. He is currently in a 1.5 gallon tank and it wasn't until I found this community that I found out he should be in at least 3 gallons :-( I want the best for him, but have no more space than for a 5 gallon. I'm sure he will be happier in a 5 gallon, though. The tank he is in now is cycled so I plan to transfer the marbles and decorations to the new tank and find a way to fit the filter pad in the new tank. Hopefully the cycle will be fairly quick then so I can transfer him to his bigger home :).
 
Probably isn't very strong then. But I'd the anubias Nana is doing well I would suggest more anubias. They have a few different types out there. Other than that Java fern and Java moss could work well. (Java fern didn't do well in any of my tanks, but it might do well in yours.) Most of the plant stuff is trial and error I've found. Lol. Though if you do get more anubias, algae may grow on them because they don't grow fast themselves. In a ten gallon tank I recommend some nerite snails. They may lay eggs that stick on stuff but they won't hatch in freshwater. Great additions to the tank in my opinion!
 
Funny you mentioning nerite snails. I was just doing some research about them and thinking about getting some. Is a Betta okay with nerite snail? I cold put a couple in the 5 gallon with my Betta.
 
As for the plants, yes, the Anubia Nana is doing just fine. I will check the plants you mentioned with time. I will definitely get the snails!
 
My betta seems to be fine with three hours nerite snails. Doesn't bother him at all. Just be carful though as some Bettas don't like even snails. Another person on here has a couple of Bettas(diff tanks of course), and one of his killed a mystery snail! Maybe you could put the snails in the tank first after its cycled before putting your betta in there? Then they kind of come with the territory. Don't know if that would help or not. Then again, he could be perfectly fine too! Just one of those things you may have to just try and see.
 
I tried a ghost shrimp in his tank but he killed it (didn't eat it) so I know he is territorial :( Of course, it probably didn't help that I added the ghost shrimp after the Betta was already in the tank for a while and the fact that his tank is only 1.5 gallons could also have contributed to the problem. I will put the snail in the 5 gallon and then move him to it later. I will have the option to rescue the snail and put it in the 10 gallon if he doesn't get along with it.
 
I've always had nerites in with m bettas with no problems. My last one was fine with his snail even though he attacked a woodlouse I managed to get in the tank (cleaning the algae off silk plants in the garden!). My current betta is not too happy when the snail climbs the glass walls but it goes no further than flaring at it. Mystery/apple snails are differently shaped from nerites. Mystery snails have quite a bit of the body outside the shell making it easier for a betta to get hold of. Nerite bodies are held within the shell, all that shows is two little antennae.
 
essjay said:
I've always had nerites in with m bettas with no problems. My last one was fine with his snail even though he attacked a woodlouse I managed to get in the tank (cleaning the algae off silk plants in the garden!). My current betta is not too happy when the snail climbs the glass walls but it goes no further than flaring at it. Mystery/apple snails are differently shaped from nerites. Mystery snails have quite a bit of the body outside the shell making it easier for a betta to get hold of. Nerite bodies are held within the shell, all that shows is two little antennae.
 
That is good to know. Thank you!
 
When should I do a partial water change in the 10 gallon now that it has cycled? Water still reads zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and between 10-20 nitrates. The last time I did a partial water change was on July 7.
 

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