0.25-0.50 Ammonia

[Proxo]

Hola, need a little help

Recently my ammonia levels are reading 0.50 (sometimes 0.25 but normally darker shade heading towards 0.50) in my 240L tank.
My tap water reads 0 ammonia readings & my 90L tank also reads 0 ammonia.

I've recently done 2 large water changes (50-75%) in space of 3days,
SLIGHT change in the ammonia levels nothing major to count on the chart.

The Nitrate level is reading higher then my top water so the ammonia must be breaking down but too slow?
Maybe more bio in the filter is what i need, i dont know?

Tank stats;
pH 7.6
Ammonia 0.50 (Tap water 0)
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 40 (Tap water 20, no live plants in tank)

Filter is;
AquaManta EFX 400 External Filter (Click My link For More Info)

Thanks in advance

 

[Proxo]

BUMP

 

[codheadjohn]

When was the filter cycled?

What has recently changed? New fish?

 

[Proxo]

When was the filter cycled?

What has recently changed? New fish?

Filter has been cycled for over 2 year and the ammonia used to be at 0 (or close too)
Only thing changed has been rocks removed & slate added, no new fish either.

 

[Proxo]

Anybody, a little advice?

 

[Proxo]

....Nobody knows?

 

[elisew]

I don`t think it`s a filtering problem as that filter is more than enough for that size tank. It might be a good idea if you haven`t done so already to stop feeding the fish until the levels drop to 0. Whenever I`ve had any problem with ammonia or nitrites I`ve been advised by the breeder I buy my fish from to do the same and do some good healthy 50% + water changes until the levels come back to where they should be. I know some people say the bacteria is all in the filter but I believe and have been told on numerous occasions that there is also bacteria on the rocks, decorations etc so I guess by removing/changing things it`s probably upset the bacteria balance somewhat

I know it`s a bit of a b@lls ache but it`s always worth doing the water changes, even if you have to do 2 a day

 

[Tizer]

i presume the fliters flow isnt hindered in any way? when was the last time you gave the filter a clean?

forget to dechlorinate the water at all?

 

[Proxo]

I don`t think it`s a filtering problem as that filter is more than enough for that size tank. It might be a good idea if you haven`t done so already to stop feeding the fish until the levels drop to 0. Whenever I`ve had any problem with ammonia or nitrites I`ve been advised by the breeder I buy my fish from to do the same and do some good healthy 50% + water changes until the levels come back to where they should be. I know some people say the bacteria is all in the filter but I believe and have been told on numerous occasions that there is also bacteria on the rocks, decorations etc so I guess by removing/changing things it`s probably upset the bacteria balance somewhat

I know it`s a bit of a b@lls ache but it`s always worth doing the water changes, even if you have to do 2 a day

Thanks for the reply

I have cut down feeding alot and will try only feed every other day or as long as possible as my GT gets abit aggressive when he's hungry!
I'll try keep up with some major water changes & see if it'll drop.

 

[Proxo]

i presume the fliters flow isnt hindered in any way? when was the last time you gave the filter a clean?

forget to dechlorinate the water at all?

Nah, filter flow is as it always has been.

Filter gets a clean every 2-3 weeks by tank water but since the ammonia has gone up
i've been emptying the water out of it every week (to get rid of fish waste).

I dechlorinate the water before it is added to the tank too!

 

[StandbySetting]

Most water suppliers these days use Chloramine instead of Chlorine as Chloramine doesn't gas off whereas Chlorine does.

When you add dechlorinater to the tap water the bond between the Chlorine and Nitrogen is broken - releasing a single Chlorine atom which will then covalently bond with another chlorine as it is a diatomic element, after the Chlorine is released you're left with an ion of Urea, Hydrogen ions will then ionically bond with the Urea molecules to form both Ammonia and Ammonium (dependent on temperature, PH etc) which may be why you're getting readings of Ammonia on your test kit. (Sorry for bombarding you with the chemistry, but I feel it is necessary to help you understand why it is happening)

But to summarise the essential equation is: 2NH2CL + H2 -> 2NH3 + CL2

I hope this makes sense to you.

 

[Proxo]

Most water suppliers these days use Chloramine instead of Chlorine as Chloramine doesn't gas off whereas Chlorine does.

When you add dechlorinater to the tap water the bond between the Chlorine and Nitrogen is broken - releasing a single Chlorine atom which will then covalently bond with another chlorine as it is a diatomic element, after the Chlorine is released you're left with an ion of Urea, Hydrogen ions will then ionically bond with the Urea molecules to form both Ammonia and Ammonium (dependent on temperature, PH etc) which may be why you're getting readings of Ammonia on your test kit. (Sorry for bombarding you with the chemistry, but I feel it is necessary to help you understand why it is happening)

But to summarise the essential equation is: 2NH2CL + H2 -> 2NH3 + CL2

I hope this makes sense to you.

A little yeah lol, wouldn't my other tank also get a reading of ammonia though?

 

[StandbySetting]

Theoretically yes, but it will also depend on your filters ability to process the excess ammonia into nitrate.