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Fishless cycle, then plants, then fish.

Definitely NO on vacation foods. That stuff can and will crash your tank. Fish are just fine for a week without food. I would personally feed normally before you leave, rather than feeding more. Any uneaten food in the tank is bad news, and more food eaten = more waste produced. Depending on...

Gelatin is quite difficult for fish to digest and makes for a poor binder. I use Repashy for all of my gel food needs. Highly-digestible binders, no fillers, economical, doesn't need refrigeration or time to set... I could go on and on. I highly recommend checking it out.

I would be doing Pimafix alongside your Melafix. Be sure to add an airstone. Try soaking the food overnight in garlic juice. Great appetite stimulant and some say good for parasites as well, though I soak food in garlic water with half a tab of Jungle parasite fizzies for internal parasites.

Take the plant out and trim the roots to about an inch, perhaps even shorter, and then replant. I always do this with my new plants. I find that it encourages new growth and helps them become grounded in their new substrate. Cut the sand in half, remove the plant, trim the roots, replace.

Unfortunately, you are quite literally wasting your breath, and time. CO2 has to be dissolved into the water for our aquatic plants to utilize it, which usually requires special diffusers that create the tiniest bubbles that eventually disappear in the water as they dissolve.

Yes, the puffer is eating the snails. It's a very fast maneuver, but you might catch it if you spend a few hours in front of the tank.

Looks cute, but I would definitely cut that sand bed in at least half.

My kuhli loaches have their own feeding corner in the tank and I use a turkey baster to deliver the food straight to that bottom corner. Using this method at the same time every day/night, they'll train to that area quickly and will come get their fill as soon as the food hits the substrate! I...

Sorry for the delayed response! It depends on the fish. For most fish, I'd say yes. And, even if you do have established media to put in the QT filter, I'd still suggest frequent (Daily?) water changes. How is the ich treatment going?

Those are usually various species of the Aponogeton genus. We'd need pictures to identify exactly which.

Also, gel foods have come a long way. Gone are the days of blending up a soup with poorly-digestible gelatin! I personally feed Repashy. Excellent, highly-digestible gel that can be presented in a variety of ways. Between live, frozen, and gel, my fish have never touched a flake or pellet in...

Absolutely true, though it depends on the fish! Scavengers, herbivores, and most omnivores will have no problems with this. Carnivores benefit largely from live foods and can be tough to train on to frozen foods. Some folks see frozen foods as more convenient than live for their carnivores...

Hopefully he got it out on his own. Watch closely for bowel movements so that you can be sure that it wasn't simply swallowed.

Purigen in your filter will suck the tannins right out.

Most chain store tanks are run by huge sumps. One tank's water is every tank's water. Fish from two different tanks going in the same bag would mean nothing. You'll want to cater to the most delicate species in your tank, which I'd consider to be the loaches in this case. Here is a link to...

I like keeping them all on hand because I use them all. Not everyone will. Price around and do some math to see if it's more economical for you to buy the kit in your position. (It's also easier to store.)

Otocinclus eat (And, consequently, poop.) almost constantly. Therefore, they need a constant food source. As mentioned above, let them have at the veggies. I put something in my veggie clip every evening and then take it out in the morning, but they have nearly constant access to aufwuchs gel...

And, of course, don't forget the freezer at the LFS! You'll find all sorts of goodies in there like bloodworms, brine shrimp, and more. My fish never get dry foods.

It depends on the fish and the food. Stuff like zucchini and cucumber gets a quick blanch, which is a dip into boiling water and then a plunge into ice water. You can loop a plant weight into the slice to sink it if it doesn't want to on its own. Most fish will graze on the slice as-is with no...

I'm certain it will. Good luck with it!

Sure, you could put it that way. It's a food, and you like that food better. It's fairly simple.

"So, to the original question, no. I would not use those dechlorinators, or any other dechlorinators." The distinction was derived from the reasoning behind my answer. While their are similar products out there that do as good of a job (arguably), I choose to support a company that I like.

I really can't say without a better picture.

I'm not employed by the company, nor do I have any stock in it. I simply prefer the Prime product and Seachem's products overall, versus similar products from other companies. I answered the original question, which was "Would you use these dechlorinators?" with 'no'. I don't feel as though I...

You need to get that out. It's not likely to come out on its own, and it could get lodged in even further. Net him gently and hold him in the net while carefully removing the gravel with a pair of tweezers. I would seriously consider getting either larger gravel or sand.

Looks like it might be columnaris, which is a bacteria, or possibly some sort of fungus. You'll want to come at it from both angles. I would treat the entire tank to be sure. Melafix and Pimafix as per bottle instructions, raise the heater a few degrees (Google max temperatures for all of the...

Ich starts in the gills and then when the infestation becomes more severe, generally appears all over the body. We need a better picture to really be able to say. Based on those two spots on the tail, though, I'm not thinking ich.

I trust Prime and I fully endorse Seachem, therefore I "sponsor" them with my money. So, to the original question, no. I would not use those dechlorinators, or any other dechlorinators.

Nitrites at 2ppm? You need to do a 100%, or as close to that as you can possibly get, water change. Move the fish to a bucket temporarily and get all of that water out. Your fish are being poisoned in their own wastes.

As mentioned above, clean water will definitely help the fins grow back and help prevent infection. To go one step further, Melafix will speed the process up and fight against any infections while the fins heal.

Putting old tank water in the new tank will do nothing. It holds nothing beneficial.

You have several options. I'm certain that they'd appreciate some algae wafers. Do get those. As for the pellets... soak them in the bulb of a turkey baster until they are saturated with water, and then use the turkey baster to deliver the food straight to the bottom. Try to use a certain...

"Brown gunk" inside of a filter, if the gunk is slimy, is accumulated beneficial bacteria. It's an excellent thing! Unless it is in a place that is impeding the flow of your filter, leave it. Pictures or at least the model of your filter and a more detailed description will help.

We really need more information to help. You should fill out the information from the sticky: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/2330-please-read-before-posting-to-emergency-section/ Water parameters like "fine" can't really tell us anything, and it's important to know every detail...

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-433-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1337244522&sr=8-8 Best water conditioner out there, as per my opinion and many other aquarists.

It is almost precisely the same. You cut your nitrates (and some nitrites) down with your water change, but the ammonia builds up quickly after and stalls at the nitrite phase. The nitrite-to-nitrate bacteria colony is much slower to grow than the ammonia-to-nitrite colony. This will take a...

Not a good idea. I would never put newspaper, used or otherwise, in my tank. Many of the inks they use are water soluble, let alone what else has accumulated there. Paper towels are a better bet if you must, but a plate with a bowl on top is a much better method.

Don't stop treating. Keep up the treatments for two weeks until the last spot disappears. Ich is primarily a gill parasite, and the spots will likely continue to stay in the gills for a few more life cycles. Good work!

Any sort of treatments can kill and do frequently upset tank balance. This is very true, and is a valuable lesson learned. Water changes do NOT wipe tanks clean and cause a tank to lose its cycle. Unless the water has not been dechlorinated, this is simply not true. Any amount, up to and...