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Thank you, that makes a lot of sense. I should probably put the adapter closer to the top so there’s only a short distance of smaller hose right? Or would it be ok if it was lower/longer distance of the small hose? If I get the new filter I’ll take it outside and test all the ideas and see what...

I have 1/2" lily pipes for my canister filter, and the hoses fit right on them. I wanted to upgrade to a different canister but the inside diameter of those hoses is bigger. The hose would be 5/8" id, so it wouldnt fit on my 1/2" lily pipes. I don't want to purchase another set of lily pipes...

Yes, I've read elsewhere on the forum that hardness is more important than ph. I forgot to specify sorry, the gh is ~75 ppm. Ive have also learned that a fluctuating ph is worse than a high ph, so I don't add anything to the water. It stays consistently at 8.4. Thank you Byron!

I have a digital ph meter, and test strips from amazon

I would buy locally, they say their water is lower ph like 7.00, but I've never tested it myself so I'm not for sure.

Ive read around on other forums and people have had success keeping harlequins in 8.4 ph. Which is what I have, I would like to keep them. I was going to acclimate them very slow like 5-8 hours. Do you think the harlequins will be ok in 8.4? I know hardness is more important my gh is ~75 and kh...

Wow, thanks for the great response a lot of great info! Ever since I put the shrimp in my tank they have been doing great! They have had babies once and one of the females are berried again. I do weekly 50% water changes anyways. So I'm gonna go with plain thrive. Thanks, everyone!

Ok, I read up on it on the nilocg website. Thrive c has less nitrogen for a higher stocked tank and normal thrive has more. With all the thrive ferts they recommend big water changes each week. Except for the thrive s (which has lower amounts as well), so in a shrimp tank it reduces the need for...

How is thrive complete different?

I mean do you have shrimp in the tank you use thrive, if that wasn’t clear

I dirted my tank and used supplements so I know the soil is good. Are you using the normal thrive? And do you have shrimp?

Great information thanks a lot! So would the normal thrive be better for my plants because it has more nutrients? And does big water changes effect shrimp?

Would it make that much of a difference to use normal thrive? Or should I just play it safe with thrive s?

And I already do 50% wc each week so thrive might be ok?...

I just want something that will make my plants do very well and still be shrimp safe

I heard that all though thrive has copper it’s still shrimp safe, how I understood it was that thrive s had less stuff in it so you didn’t have to do the the big water changes as frequent.

Ok thanks! And no I don’t use any liquid carbon because I heard shrimp and vallisnaria can be sensitive???

I have a low-tech planted tank (densely planted) and have been dosing seachem flourish as my fertilizer. I have read that its not very good and I want a better fertilizer. I researched for an easy all in one fertilizer and I came across nilocg. I was wondering whether I should get thrive or...

Yeah it is strange that we both have the same problem with the same light. Want size tank do you have? My java moss is about half way down the hight of the tank (its 18 inches tall). I only have my lights on for 8 hours normally, 14 would be a lot for me.

It doesn't repolute the tank I have the vac right next to it and I scrub it off and it gets sucked up right away.

yeah I've been cleaning it regularly, im just curious when the babies will be big enough so I can take the mesh off (so my filter can work at full power.) Those would probably make the job easier because right now I just have mesh rubber-banded around the intake and it's hard to get on and off...

Interesting... How long have you been dealing with it?

I clean it every two weeks, rinse the floss, pad, and sponge in aquarium water. And replace the floss and pad every 4 weeks. I just leave the bio-balls.

I have a Penn Plax cascade canister 500. It has biological media balls and a coarse sponge in the lower basket, and fewer bio-balls, filter floss, and a filter pad in the top basket.

also my inlet pipe only has slits on one side, and a built in surface skimmer. So its less slits underwater, so less surface area therefore more buildup.

I must have more detritus then, or the holes are too small and the filter cant intake any of it. Idk

wouldn't these clog just as easy? I assume they have relatively the same hole size.

Ok, I've been anxious to take off the mesh because I have to clean it off almost every day and it's inhibiting the filter (I think). Im just worried cause I don't want the baby rcs to be sucked into the filter.

Right, ok. Any suggestion on manually removing the algae from moss? And also I was wondering If a decreased flow rate can have to do with algae. Because my RCS had babies 2 weeks ago and I put some mesh over the intake of my canister filter, and it gets clogged pretty quick. I think it reducing...

I never had a problem with the algae in the moss until recently, and I've always had my light on 8 hrs

4 hours is not a long time, I hope I can up that in the future

I have it on the highest of six settings, how low should I turn it to?

I can't lift the light. Will turning the intensity have the same effect? If so there are six settings, which one should I use? It's hard to get the hair algae out of the moss any suggestions?

Any ideas on how to balance and to rid of this algae are helpful. Along with identifying it. Thank you!

My tank is almost algae-free other than the algae that is in my java moss. I have a nicrew full spectrum led. Led light on full power 8 hours a day. Light is 18 inches above the substrate. No co2. What can I do to get rid of the algae? There is java moss that is lower down in the tank that...

what about mosquito rasboras?

So putting ember tetras in would be fine with the babies?

So cute