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The light spectrum, and lack of water flow are usual causes. Adding a small powerhead to aide in circulation will often, but not always, help out. What type of lighting and how old is it?

Adding filter floss to your existing filter will help polish the water. Most crayfish, will attack fish, usually at night while they are sleeping. What type of peacocks do you have? Malawian or S/A peacock bass?

That should be sufficient until your tank is fully cycled.

Cyanobacteria, siphon it out off the plant. Something is off if its developing in your tank. Increasing water flow can help rid your tank of it.

Looks fantastic! As for your stock, a couple more rasboras and maybe some cherry shrimp would be good.

If you have just two bushfish, one will bully the other constantly. Three spreads the aggression. As for fish similar to gars, hujeta gars are quite common and stay smallish... http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/ctenolucius-hujeta/

A 9-18 watt U.V. sterilizer would be suitable. If you rehome the plec, a discus plant package would be a good choice.

Aluminum used on pistons and connecting rods are generally forged billet aluminum and won't corrode, but those would be VERY expensive fish tank decorations. There are cheaper parts made from cast aluminum, not safe, as most of these contain other metals to make the aluminum harder.

I've used it, didn't work. I'll stick with quick cure. If your fish are that bad, you may want to consider saltwater dips, to knock off the cysts.

Don't worry about it. Went through an entire nitrate test before reading it right.

Looks like a serpae, that is just a color morph.

Depends on the size of the tank you are going to use.

You can use plain white vinegar to help clean everything. Soak the heater in a bucket of hot tap water and a couple of cups of vinegar. The water scale should wipe off, without much effort. You can do this with power heads and other equipment as well. If the filter still runs, then there is no...

Read the directions again. Bottle 2 needs to be thoroughly shaken for at least a minute before adding the 10th drops....

Glad its working. :good:

Does it have a slimmy feel or is it hard?

I think the cupids are the best idea.

Adding more tetras, would probably help. If its just a nip here and there, I wouldn't worry too much. As for the powerhead, I use them in all my tanks. The fish seem to enjoy the extra current. Try it out, if your fish look like they're straggling, you can always remove it.

Whatever your favorite is.

Yes, all of them. Except for the apistos they are all very small, slender fish.

She could drop any day. They typically have a batch of fry every 30 days or so.

Cichlids, pronounced sick-lids. Nice looking tank.

I know here in the states you can get different colored sleeves for fluorescent tubes. They come in a variety of colors.

If you have both sexes they will breed. Inbreeding in fish isn't the same as in people, problems typically don't arise for many generations of inbreeding. In fact that's how they fix a strain of fish, is by breeding siblings, or parent to offspring.

Both great ideas.

If you purchase a plant bulb, they are usually pinkish in color.

Maybe your dad has the kuhlis confused with, clown or dojo loaches. Both of those can reach around a foot in length. As for other fish now, I'd do something like this... 6-kuhli loaches 6-otos 12-harlequin rasboras or cardinal tetras 6-marble hatchetfish 1-pair of apistogrammas, your choice.

If you nudged it and it didn't move, its most likely dead. Check for gill movement, or simply pull it out. A living fish will try to get away. If it is dead take it and water sample from your tank back to the store and see if they will replace it. Just make sure the water sample is in a separate...

Interesting... Usually pH goes up after setting for a day or so. CO2 lowers the pH and as it leaves the tap water the pH should go up.

Most likely they'll eat the danios one by one. That's one of the benefits of keeping livebearers, a constant source of live food. Few fry will survive in a tank of C/A cichlids.

Really nice find there. Should be able to twist and turn it to get it in the tank. Happy Birthday! :shout:

I agree with phantom. I just prefer there to be some biofilm for my algae eaters.

The Texas, terrors and devil all have the potential to be problems to your Oscar. Less aggressive fish, severums, Geophagus and acaras, would make better tankmates.

Add just a couple of cups, doesn't take much.

Forktail rainbows.

It's a good rule of thumb for beginners, but only when considering small fish ie; neons, harlequin rasboras, etc... A ten inch Oscar has something like 100 times the mass of a 1" Oscar, so obviously the one inch per gallon rule wouldn't apply. It's a very tricky guide line.

I live in California and would have to call or go to the pet store, to see how much it would cost. It will also vary in price by shop. Wills is a mastermind of cichlid communities, so I would take his advice.

Crypts need to be planted in the substrate, anubias, java fern and the mosses are the only ones you are likely to see in a pet store, that would need to be attached to something. Typically, I wouldn't recommend an algae eater for the first two months, after that a bushynose pleco would a good...

Baking soda in itself won't harm your fish, the sudden pH swing up will. Add a filter media bag full of crushed coral to the tank, this will slowly increase your kh and pH as it dissolves. Might take a week or two.

Not likely to breed in a community setting. I've kept dwarfs and honeys together, but in a larger tank.